tedstryker

iTrader: (88)

Fresh to Death...bro..

RiseRC

iTrader: (4)

Yeah Baby, Yeah!

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

Would like to get some more feedback regarding the +8 chassis. Did you guys add weight? Were suspension, battery changes necessary? Did your lap times improve? What about clay, dirt, carpet? Any info is good info.

glenng

iTrader: (1)

I snapped a rear axle tonight racing. i smacked into the wall on a sideways slide, midturn. does anyone know if there are any upgraded (3rd party perhaps) driveshaft/axle kits available for the 210? also i use pro-line 12mm hex kit. could using these clamp on hexes potentially have contributed to the axle snapping in some capacity (someone had suggested it as a possibility tonight)? also, aluminum hubs are used, else, i imagine hub blowout would have occurred before an axle snap. has anyone else experienced this or similar?

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

Never heard of an axle snapping on any car. Im sure the wall was the biggest factor in the axle failure. Upgraded axles really are not necessary, avoiding the wall may be. I understand since the part broke mine as well upgrade it, but again the hubs and hexes were probably not the main factor.

I recently broke two rear shock towers within 10 minutes of each other. It would be tempting to put on carbon towers, but i was the cause of the failure, not the towers. Bought three pairs of stock towers for the price of one carbon tower, and will work on driving better. Thats my solution for what it's worth.

FRONTI3R

iTrader: (8)

+1 My buddy and I both tried CF towers on the rear. They break, just like the plastic ones did. They might of lasted a bit longer then the plastic but not worth the money in my opinion.

Cspurlock

iTrader: (31)

Just thought I would offer a different perspective:

When I first put my car together, my rear shock tower broke the first time my car flipped upside down. Was what I would consider a very light to moderate crash. I immediately bought a CF tower from diggity designs and it lasted about 8 months and easily a 100 battery packs. It lasted through what I would consider some spectacular crashes; I even broke a CF chassis in one of the crashes. I just recently broke it, so I replaced it with another. I definately feel like it took some major beatings that the stock one would have broke under.

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

I also have the diggity front and rear tower and have literally beat the crap out of them and the towers are still holding strong.

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

Will the finnisher body fit on the dimec chassis at all. Only thing I see it might interfere is where the chassis narrows.

This would just be temp of course but does it work "somewhat"

Cspurlock

iTrader: (31)

Yes it fits, just not very well. You can use it though. They changed the curvature of the sidepods up front and that is where the problem is. the body doesn't lie flat against it, but it will difinately work, just not pretty.

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

I've beat the heck out of the stockers...only broke one rear since last Dec.

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

Ya thats where I was thinking it would bind or what not. but good it will work temp, really hate the look of cab forward bodies.

Tdiddy

iTrader: (6)

A few weeks ago, I posted about the first race with my new 210 and all the ballcups popping off. I only raced the car one time and had to take a break for elbow sugery. This last weekend, I raced again for the first time in six weeks at West Coast. The night before the race, I replaced all the ballcups with a new set of Team Durango HD ballcups except this time, I took Jonny5's advice. I slightly enlarged the opening for the turnbuckle to a depth of about 1/8 inch. I greased the turnbuckle threads with a little black greese and threaded the turnbuckle in untill it bottomed out 3 times. Once reinstalled on my car, I was able to adjust them with little resistance.

I'm still in a soft cast and can't really grip the controler that well so I smacked the wall at the end of the back straight once or twice during practice. I also sent the car into a violent role after traction rolling at the end of the straight.

After a full day of practice and a night of racing, I did not experance a single popped ballcup. The ballcup issue I experanced before was infact due to assembly errror on my part.

I'm sold in the TD HD ballcups.

glenng

iTrader: (1)

yea i never heard of an axle snapping either on any rc (though im sure its happened before), thats why i thought it odd. valid points though. the wall is the culprit indeed and should be avoided if possible.

onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

I have swapped the front cups back to TD to try them out, so fat one pop but that was deserved and lucky nothing else broke.

I did find that it matters what grease you use on the thread as the real sticky stuff will actually cause them to stick rather than glide. I ended up removing and cleaning the threads then replacing and they work great now no trouble adjusting at all.

I did use a screwdriver and threaded them in and out several times... slowely as if its too fast the plastic will heat up and expand then once it cools it will contract squeezing on the threads.

As with the shock towers, i did a couple in the start bith front and rear, found shimming the rear out with a 1mm spacer helped a bit. I did put on the CF towers and still have the rear in place but the front CF tower broke. I was then using the original one untill I need a replacement but found I don,t need it yet as its held up pretty good.

On the other hand I have become a better driver as well.

My two SEK swedish krona as we dont have cents :-P