SoCalGuy

Hi All,
Just got my new 210 in the mail today
Regarding the diff build, I noticed on the TD website, their diff build video shows RED Locktite being used on the diff nut. Would this be the correct way to go? I always thought the red was practically permanent. I'll be using the B-Fast kit.
Thanks,
SoCal

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

I have never used loctite of any kind on my diff nut, and never had one loosen up.

Cspurlock

iTrader: (31)

[QUOTE=brians11;11063633]Hoping for some help with some rear side bite. I feel like the rear end rotates a little too hard through the middle of the turns, but I'm not real sure where to start on changes, so any help would be appreciated. I've tried several rear tires and didn't change too much, so I'm thinking it has more to do with the suspension.

Brian

QUOTE]

Brian,
I would try a few things:
move your front camber link to the #2 position on the tower
move your rear shock to the #2 on the arm
move your rear hubs to the middle (2&2)
change your camber to 1deg

do all these changes at once, or you won't feel the proper effect.

Then if you find you are a little starved for traction, go to 3.5 rear toe, don't move the axles forward.

Then at that point try moving the rear shock from the #3 on the tower to the #2 and see which feels better.

Then if the car is feeling better, you might try going to a Dk Grn front spring, you might be a little soft at Black.

Just my 2 cents

Bus

iTrader: (4)

Hey gents I have been reading up on the Durango DEX210 and really thinking of going with this racing platform for the up coming indoor season!

What I would like to ask is what do you think of the car and/or compaired to the B4.1/22's ect.?

I know most cars are all 90% driver 10% car but wanted to ask you. "ANYONE"

Thanks for the feedback!

Cspurlock

iTrader: (31)

I am sure everyone will have a different opinioin, but IMO I think the car is better everywhere over the B4. I think it has better steering then the 22, but is not better through the rough then it. I think the car excels in its ability to tune it over other cars.

JeremyHarris

iTrader: (1)

You can move the bottom of the rear shock to the inside hole, I have a fourth hole drilled in my rear shocktower, as well. You can also try adding a 1mm washer under the rear ballstud. You can also try the 3/1.5 block instead of 3/3 and go to the Durango light red rear spring (rate 2.00) or the losi yellow rear (rate 2.05) and try running your battery a little further back. Also, lengthen the front camber link will take some steering away and that will help the rear feel more planted.

ErnestHelmsley

Can't wait to get my 210 going.

Bus

iTrader: (4)

Cool thanks for the feedback!

Jerod Tebo races at my local track. Wouldnt mind trying a Kyosho neither but im just like to be different and try something that not to many have!

brians11

iTrader: (40)

So far, there doesn't seem to be a 'fast' tire yet. We got new dirt at the beginning of July and are still searching.

I've tried Rattlers, but the track gets a little dust on it at times and gets really slick. I totally forgot about the toe inserts for the hubs and such. I saw the options on the setup sheet, but just thought I was missing something. I'll keep this in mind next time.

[QUOTE=Cspurlock;11065386]Thanks for the detailed response, I'll keep all of this in mind.

Thanks for the input, I'll give these a go. Do you guys feel the shock oil/piston combo is ok? I hadn't thought about the large spur gear effect.

Rob Phillips

iTrader: (6)

Seen my buddy run his tonight for it's maiden voyage, have to say, it looked pretty good.

Can't wait to wheel it!

So*Cal AFDude

iTrader: (21)

So been reading up and am getting a roller to test. What is the issue with the diff on the car? Heard some mixed feelings.

jnslprd

iTrader: (5)

Stock diff is good, everything wore even, lasted about 4 months and needs outdrives and dogbones. Not bad this diff seems to like being run tight so get it set on the bench first. Whole diff in bag is pretty cool also.

slow_jun

iTrader: (14)

if improperly set, the circlip will pop thus diff will slip, even if you thighten it. just make sure you install the cage race thrust bearing correctly and you will be alright. also follow tips on how to build the diff in TD sight...

So*Cal AFDude

iTrader: (21)

Thanks guys. I am really picky on building/ breaking my diffs in properly with all my cars. I'll be sure to check out the site for the info on their diff.

I understand the thrust bearing is the cage type. My Team C cars have that as well, and it sucks. What is the way you guys install the one on the Rango? Maybe that will help the Team C out as well.

slow_jun

iTrader: (14)

make sure to take note of the orientation and use a circlip tool, mine i used a cheapo bent needle nose pliers and dremel the tip to fit in the circlip, results was no diff slipping. aside from that just the normal diff break in and your good to go...


http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...ild-guide-pt1/