Terra Rover

Thanks.
Jconcepts is going to have to get off of their collective butts, , and make some Rulux wheels for the Durangos. We need them for both the DEX210 and the DEX410 so we have some wheel options and dont have to piece or modify something to get what we want.
So I guess the only wheel options are the Durango white or yellow or the DE Racing wheels that are available. If there are any other options please let me know.
Thank you all

SourDieselX

iTrader: (9)

*Waving my arms in the air* I'm a new DEX210 owner

Mantis, already talked to ya, I'll take a body and wing for sure. Can't wait to get this beast up and running.

Rango Racer

i run rulux on both my 410 and 210

for the rears ya just needa groove the channel out for the pin to fit (and do the pin set up if need to)
and fronts on the 210 ya machine the 5mm shaft done to 4.4mm (what eva the b4 id bearing are) and run the b4 bearings

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Don't forget the new Mono wheel.

rcman182006

iTrader: (15)

I'd defiantly be down for at least the body, eventually the undertray and bumper (dont wanna scratch up the smecksy chassis during outdoor season :P)

JeremyHarris

iTrader: (1)

The Jconcepts Rear clamping hex will fit on the rear of the 210. You can then run the Jconcepts mono wheel for the B4.1 on the rear.

Terra Rover

Thanks for the idea but I dont have the ability or access to machinery to machine down the front shafts.
As for the rest of the posts on the wheels, thanks and keep them coming.

I emailed Jconcepts and will wait for a response from them.

JeremyHarris

iTrader: (1)

Jconcepts Part # 2091
Jconcepts Part # 3348

Terra Rover

Thanks for the pn's JeremyHarris. Nice to see some wheel are out there even if you do have to mod you kit to run them. The fronts on the 210 are the hardest to figure out. Hopefully some companies other than DE Racing will step up and support the Durangos.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Iv been running the DE wheels for the past couple months, and think they are the best wheel I have ever run on any of my buggies. They are very strong, but still have some flex, and are the truest/roundest wheel Iv yet seen.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Sorry I didn't get to this question earlier, I was pretty busy the last few days! Just ran our annual 8 hour short course enduro at BRCR this weekend, and had no time for the computer at all... We came in second with over 1300 laps! Ok, to your question:

Would the shocks work? I'm sure you could get them to fit, as their overall outer diameters are the same. All you would need to do is limit or lengthen to get the proper length, and maybe shim the top or bottoms to keep things from rubbing. But, why would you? The K shocks are just as good, and I would venture to say that the springs are better. If anything, get the new big bores that come on the new version of the K car. If you want to try out the 210, stop by BRCR any Saturday race night (except this saturday maybe, as I will be on-call at work and can't go to the track)... and I would be happy to let you take my 210 for a spin.

The diff issue was simple... the Circlip was simply coming out of it's recess all on its own, simply because I had compressed the circlip too many times. I had rebuilt the diff twice, and reused the clip. Now I have a huge stack of spares, and the clips are now one-time-use only. Once you learn all the nuances of the 210 diff, building any other diff becomes embarrassing. It's simply the best and longest lasting diff made.

The RB5 and the 210... is a pretty easy comparison. Obviously both cars are extremely good. Both cars have their weakspots, strong suites, advantages and disadvantages. If you add up all the pros and cons of both cars and then sit them side by side, neither car really leans better or worse than the other... they are just different. The one advantage the K car has that really makes it the tiniest bit better, is parts availability, and the fact that it is now a proven platform with a lot of the bugs worked out, with proven setups you can find anywhere. The 210 has a LOT of work ahead of it to get it on the same track. But over time, it will certainly reach the same level... so i'm not worried. With both cars developed to their full potential, I would say that OVERALL... the 210 will end up being a better car on-the-track , albeit quite a bit harder to work on.

Come on out to B-town one of these race nights, find me in the pits and come shake my hand... id be happy to help in any way I can. Bring your gear and put some laps down behind the buzzer!

-Brandon

arn671

iTrader: (17)

Brandon, Thanks for the info! What I was hoping to achieve was to get the 210 and run the shocks on it and the K-car. Scott @ TRCR took care of me on Kyosho BB's so that takes care of that issue. Still tempted to p/u the 210 though, I've got a ton of the xray diff clips from my T3.
Will definitely have tocome shake your hand, your car looks dialed in the video on petit. If you ever make it over to Hangar 30, I'm usually racing sedan or 12th scale, not having grip and jumping is definitely taking some getting used to Thanks again-Alvin

slymonuk

Just a couple pictures of my Dex210. Original body and the jconcepts.
The jconcepts is far better in quality but the original is a great disign

Slayer1904

iTrader: (9)

Hey guys, running into a little bit of a problem with my build.

In putting together the trans and adding the internal (silver) spacer to the top shaft the bearing actually pushes out of the the plastic piece that holds the motor plate to the transmission and won't allow any top shaft movement.

Now if I take the spacer out everything goes together smooth and the transmission spins freely. I've been told the spacer does need to go in there but for whatever reason it's just not working.

Anyone else have this problem?

Running the mid-motor 3 gear setup.

here is a picture of the problem, you can see the bearing pushing out and thats not even tight (or threaded). That's only pushed onto the lip of the actual gear box. if I tighten it up or even thread the top 2 motor plate screws it's almost an instant drive line bind.





thanks for any tips,recomendations.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

no picture.