16LikesHPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread
10-19-2011, 01:05 PM
#6511
I went with the Tekno chassis since I had so many 4s packs and didn't want to switch horses. The balance of the tekno is very good...I love mine.
I don't think you can go wrong either way though...its just a personal preference on configuration.
10-19-2011, 01:20 PM
#6512
that I don't know.... lol I don't think you can...... you can adjust the cambering but not the toe. if your toe is off in the rear its not a adjustment setting you have to worry about. check the brace on the very back of the chassis.The rear pivot plate, i know on some there are multiple plates that come with it like a 3-2 or 3-3 pivot plate. The stock is a 3degree, a little expensive but maybe this one it's a 3.5 degree toe pivot plate http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Block-System
10-19-2011, 01:22 PM
#6513
that I don't know.... lol I don't think you can...... you can adjust the cambering but not the toe. if your toe is off in the rear its not a adjustment setting you have to worry about. check the brace on the very back of the chassis.The rear pivot plate, i know on some there are multiple plates that come with it like a 3-2 or 3-3 pivot plate. The stock is a 3degree, a little expensive but maybe this one it's a 3.5 degree toe pivot plate http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Block-System
10-20-2011, 03:28 AM
#6514
advise needed
About a month ago the esc in my Vorza burst into flames. HPI sent me a new one, I set it up and all seemed fine. I ran it for about five mins and it quit running. It didn't get hot, every thing seems in order. When I turn the switch on it doesn't make the arming sounds and the yellow light comes on. The servo works but not the motor. I've tried different batteries and even put in a tx out of another buggy that I know for sure that it works. I double checked the motor wires and they're plugged in properly. Any body have any ideas I really don't want to send it back to HPI. Another thing when I first turn on the switch the fan doesn't come on. I checked it and it spins freely.
10-20-2011, 05:50 AM
#6515
About a month ago the esc in my Vorza burst into flames. HPI sent me a new one, I set it up and all seemed fine. I ran it for about five mins and it quit running. It didn't get hot, every thing seems in order. When I turn the switch on it doesn't make the arming sounds and the yellow light comes on. The servo works but not the motor. I've tried different batteries and even put in a tx out of another buggy that I know for sure that it works. I double checked the motor wires and they're plugged in properly. Any body have any ideas I really don't want to send it back to HPI. Another thing when I first turn on the switch the fan doesn't come on. I checked it and it spins freely.
Last edited by Z4Kevo; 10-20-2011 at 06:15 AM.
10-20-2011, 07:17 AM
#6516
Tech Initiate
Hi guys, heres a vid from when i was playing in the sand the other week.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4wAX-1O5S8
Mods> removed wing, turned out well, as it landed shiny side up alot. F=R stainless bashplates, carbon chassis protector. i went to a fabric shop, and got some stuff similar to outerwears, and covered the esc, worked awesome, perfect even. doing wheelies blew the 2 front paddletyres, from the center diff action 'hyperspeeding' them, that sucked. also the badlands, and the paddles to some degree, filled up with sand from the air holes in the rim. stock vorza wheels dont have that, so i boiled off the paddles, hole punched two 3mm holes in each tread, and cloth taped the insides, 2 laps, befor gluing them to stock vorza v7 wheels. these tyres went awesome after that. i also hotglued the diff, to stop the overspeeding, but as it heated up from use it remelted. didnt really work out. then after it refroze. pretty annoying. Great day though Alot of fun and well worth hours in the sun being sandblasted.
Damage> 2 paddle tyres, front spindle carrier stripped, broke one steering tie rodend, curved both center driveshafts, busted up spotlight, 4 exploded BNIB badlands, cracked front off battery tray, loose front diff cup grub screw.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4wAX-1O5S8
Mods> removed wing, turned out well, as it landed shiny side up alot. F=R stainless bashplates, carbon chassis protector. i went to a fabric shop, and got some stuff similar to outerwears, and covered the esc, worked awesome, perfect even. doing wheelies blew the 2 front paddletyres, from the center diff action 'hyperspeeding' them, that sucked. also the badlands, and the paddles to some degree, filled up with sand from the air holes in the rim. stock vorza wheels dont have that, so i boiled off the paddles, hole punched two 3mm holes in each tread, and cloth taped the insides, 2 laps, befor gluing them to stock vorza v7 wheels. these tyres went awesome after that. i also hotglued the diff, to stop the overspeeding, but as it heated up from use it remelted. didnt really work out. then after it refroze. pretty annoying. Great day though Alot of fun and well worth hours in the sun being sandblasted.
Damage> 2 paddle tyres, front spindle carrier stripped, broke one steering tie rodend, curved both center driveshafts, busted up spotlight, 4 exploded BNIB badlands, cracked front off battery tray, loose front diff cup grub screw.
10-20-2011, 12:46 PM
#6517
Check the motor plugs again...on the ESC and the motor...sometimes they can get gummed up and it doesn't take that much (almost like a dark tarnishing on the gold plating) and prevent the ESC from detecting the motor and/or causing a short/stutter while running. I had this happen before and all I did was scrape away the buildup and it is good now. Not sure what caused it...neither was Castle. Something probably got in there and caused some kind of reaction under all that voltage...now I just keep an eye on them. Hasn't happened since. Hopefully that's all it is.
10-20-2011, 01:44 PM
#6518
About a month ago the esc in my Vorza burst into flames. HPI sent me a new one, I set it up and all seemed fine. I ran it for about five mins and it quit running. It didn't get hot, every thing seems in order. When I turn the switch on it doesn't make the arming sounds and the yellow light comes on. The servo works but not the motor. I've tried different batteries and even put in a tx out of another buggy that I know for sure that it works. I double checked the motor wires and they're plugged in properly. Any body have any ideas I really don't want to send it back to HPI. Another thing when I first turn on the switch the fan doesn't come on. I checked it and it spins freely.
10-20-2011, 01:51 PM
#6519
I took a look and the plugs from the motor look like new and the esc is new. Just for kicks I cleaned both with contact cleaner but it didn't do any thing. Hard to believe that a brand new esc is defective. I've had the worse luck with the esc's in my Vorza. This is my third one since I bought it new in April. I take good care of my rc's, I don't over gear and I use quality batteries. The one before this one literaly caught on fire!!! Thanks for the idea Kev, it was worth a try.
You getting power to the RX? If so, Do the lights on the ESC react to your trigger pull? ie. change colors? I've had mine intermittently forget its' calibration. Re-calibrated and everything was good.
10-20-2011, 03:32 PM
#6520
Hi guys, heres a vid from when i was playing in the sand the other week.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4wAX-1O5S8
Mods> removed wing, turned out well, as it landed shiny side up alot. F=R stainless bashplates, carbon chassis protector. i went to a fabric shop, and got some stuff similar to outerwears, and covered the esc, worked awesome, perfect even. doing wheelies blew the 2 front paddletyres, from the center diff action 'hyperspeeding' them, that sucked. also the badlands, and the paddles to some degree, filled up with sand from the air holes in the rim. stock vorza wheels dont have that, so i boiled off the paddles, hole punched two 3mm holes in each tread, and cloth taped the insides, 2 laps, befor gluing them to stock vorza v7 wheels. these tyres went awesome after that. i also hotglued the diff, to stop the overspeeding, but as it heated up from use it remelted. didnt really work out. then after it refroze. pretty annoying. Great day though Alot of fun and well worth hours in the sun being sandblasted.
Damage> 2 paddle tyres, front spindle carrier stripped, broke one steering tie rodend, curved both center driveshafts, busted up spotlight, 4 exploded BNIB badla
nds, cracked front off battery tray, loose front diff cup grub screw.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4wAX-1O5S8
Mods> removed wing, turned out well, as it landed shiny side up alot. F=R stainless bashplates, carbon chassis protector. i went to a fabric shop, and got some stuff similar to outerwears, and covered the esc, worked awesome, perfect even. doing wheelies blew the 2 front paddletyres, from the center diff action 'hyperspeeding' them, that sucked. also the badlands, and the paddles to some degree, filled up with sand from the air holes in the rim. stock vorza wheels dont have that, so i boiled off the paddles, hole punched two 3mm holes in each tread, and cloth taped the insides, 2 laps, befor gluing them to stock vorza v7 wheels. these tyres went awesome after that. i also hotglued the diff, to stop the overspeeding, but as it heated up from use it remelted. didnt really work out. then after it refroze. pretty annoying. Great day though Alot of fun and well worth hours in the sun being sandblasted.
Damage> 2 paddle tyres, front spindle carrier stripped, broke one steering tie rodend, curved both center driveshafts, busted up spotlight, 4 exploded BNIB badla
nds, cracked front off battery tray, loose front diff cup grub screw.
Kool vid,, have you tryed paddles frt and rear?? Gettin ready to buy some. Post some pics of the esc cover
10-20-2011, 07:40 PM
#6521
Bummer man. I overlooked mine the first time and was was hoping it would be as easy as that for you too.
You getting power to the RX? If so, Do the lights on the ESC react to your trigger pull? ie. change colors? I've had mine intermittently forget its' calibration. Re-calibrated and everything was good.
You getting power to the RX? If so, Do the lights on the ESC react to your trigger pull? ie. change colors? I've had mine intermittently forget its' calibration. Re-calibrated and everything was good.
10-20-2011, 07:47 PM
#6522
They do fail a lot but the lights on the esc come on and so do the lights on the rx so I know power is going through the switch. I wonder if it's possible that there's not enough power going through the switch to arm the esc, is that even possible. I guess I could cut it off to see, I don't really have any thing to lose.
10-20-2011, 08:59 PM
#6523
Jerry
Sorry bout your mishaps man... Hopefully HPI will help you out asap.
Sorry bout your mishaps man... Hopefully HPI will help you out asap.
10-20-2011, 09:52 PM
#6524
They do fail a lot but the lights on the esc come on and so do the lights on the rx so I know power is going through the switch. I wonder if it's possible that there's not enough power going through the switch to arm the esc, is that even possible. I guess I could cut it off to see, I don't really have any thing to lose.
is the lead to the RX plugged in correctly(not backwards)?
what happens when you dont have the rx connected and you turn it on?
Try unplugging the servo, sometimes a bad servo can wreck havoc on a system. I used to have a Summit where 1 of the 5 servos went out and it was screwing EVERYthing else up.
Just some suggestions. Hope it helps.
10-21-2011, 12:49 AM
#6525
Tech Initiate
Hi, yea i had 4 paddles at the start, but the fronts blew out, from wheelies. very frustrating considering how hard they are to find, and how $$$ they cost. where are you getting them from??
i recently bought a hyper7E, but love the vorza more, so bought a D8E, and a D8 Hara Tekno, and am waiting for them to arrive from overseas. so ill have 3 Vorzas soon. ill sell the hyper, and keep one type of parts.
ive already blown 3 motors in the one i have, for different reasons. wheres hte best spot for rebuilds? ive found them for $25 but when u order thay say mistake ectect, and now 55-65. any help? cheers guys.
i recently bought a hyper7E, but love the vorza more, so bought a D8E, and a D8 Hara Tekno, and am waiting for them to arrive from overseas. so ill have 3 Vorzas soon. ill sell the hyper, and keep one type of parts.
ive already blown 3 motors in the one i have, for different reasons. wheres hte best spot for rebuilds? ive found them for $25 but when u order thay say mistake ectect, and now 55-65. any help? cheers guys.