16LikesHPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread
08-26-2011, 06:32 AM
#6198
Tech Initiate
its quite unfortunate that they're putting so little effort into making a car.. such companies take 2 years to develop and make a better car, having more adjustment options, lightening but yet parts still as strong, very disappointing.. looks like HPI likes making "fun" cars now.. the trophy flux are just "so affordable" with how they make it.. yes i agree the D8 platform is a great platform, but come on man.. the Vorza weighs even heavier than a MBX6T.. and its a truggy.. thats very sad..
On the other hand, if like me you consider the Vorza as a basher and use it for fun, I AM GLAD THEY DIDN'T CHANGE ANYTHING. This model is proven to be very durable and a good basher. I'm tired of mfg releasing a new model every year that make the parts harder to find for you model. Especially when the "new" model doesn't change a darn thing for you basher. With a new model the new parts are not compatable, eventhough the "old" worked just fine.
I hope the vorza will continue to be the vorza for many more years, so I can find plenty parts, even used ones, have time to use my spare parts and not waste them.
08-26-2011, 07:49 AM
#6199
Tech Adept
Im with suresnoi on this, obviously as 'old' vorza owner im happy nothing has changed..
But im happy there is a brand that makes a 'good' bashable buggy and doesnt bring out a new one evry so often.
Like suresnoi said some crazy people actually bash buggy's, and they wouldnt care if it can be a few grams lighter somewhere
Its the same as traxxas, cars are out for a very long time and bashers actually appreciate that. Except HPI actually has good 1/8th scale cars
But im happy there is a brand that makes a 'good' bashable buggy and doesnt bring out a new one evry so often.
Like suresnoi said some crazy people actually bash buggy's, and they wouldnt care if it can be a few grams lighter somewhere
Its the same as traxxas, cars are out for a very long time and bashers actually appreciate that. Except HPI actually has good 1/8th scale cars
08-26-2011, 12:18 PM
#6200
I consider myself a purely on-road basher so I guess I am one of the crazies. 
Thought I would go ahead and post a picture of my almost complete vorza, only thing that's missing is the universals for back and rear drive shaft. Which should come in tomorrow or Monday at the latest. Unfortunately because of my low post count can't embed it into this post, but have a look and let me know what you guys think, appreciate it.
Just remove the brackets
[http]://dl.dropbox.com/u/548286/MyVorza.JPG
Thought I would go ahead and post a picture of my almost complete vorza, only thing that's missing is the universals for back and rear drive shaft. Which should come in tomorrow or Monday at the latest. Unfortunately because of my low post count can't embed it into this post, but have a look and let me know what you guys think, appreciate it.
Just remove the brackets
[http]://dl.dropbox.com/u/548286/MyVorza.JPG
08-26-2011, 02:20 PM
#6201
Tech Rookie
Im with suresnoi on this, obviously as 'old' vorza owner im happy nothing has changed..
But im happy there is a brand that makes a 'good' bashable buggy and doesnt bring out a new one evry so often.
Like suresnoi said some crazy people actually bash buggy's, and they wouldnt care if it can be a few grams lighter somewhere
Its the same as traxxas, cars are out for a very long time and bashers actually appreciate that. Except HPI actually has good 1/8th scale cars
But im happy there is a brand that makes a 'good' bashable buggy and doesnt bring out a new one evry so often.
Like suresnoi said some crazy people actually bash buggy's, and they wouldnt care if it can be a few grams lighter somewhere
Its the same as traxxas, cars are out for a very long time and bashers actually appreciate that. Except HPI actually has good 1/8th scale cars
Also I bet there will be the perverbial rich kids who will eBay a brand new Vorza just cause its the old style so he can go buy the new style. He will sell that brand new "old" style for half price. Keep your eyes open. This new model is good luck for anybody in the market for a Vorza and is smart enough to see through this "new model" facade.
08-26-2011, 02:54 PM
#6202
Tech Adept
Looks nice Azagar, but the tires are weird now, if you switch them up so the profiles are pointed to the same direction all, wouldnt that be better?
Also if possible maybe it would be a little better to get the pinion as close to the motor as possible
And knight81 you are right. Converting to a new vorza is quite easy just buy a body and decal sheet and ur done
Im not sure who would buy a new one when he already has the old one
Much nicer to have a custom body though
Also if possible maybe it would be a little better to get the pinion as close to the motor as possible
And knight81 you are right. Converting to a new vorza is quite easy just buy a body and decal sheet and ur done
Im not sure who would buy a new one when he already has the old one Much nicer to have a custom body though
08-26-2011, 05:09 PM
#6203
Got some extremely bad news and could use a little help on figuring out what went wrong.
Today as I was using my vorza after some hard braking I noticed I had lost power from the front wheels, quickly take of the shell to find the DCJ I had just installed broken free. The pins for the coupling were all gone. I now regret not using some Locktite and a large heat-shrink tubbing to go around the whole coupling like I had read before from various D8 forums. Now as bad as this is, not the worst of my problems.
I then look down to my center differential and notice a hole on the housing and diff oil leaking from it. I take the differential out and take it apart, some how the gears inside expanded into the plastic housing. They somehow were spinning into the housing and shredding the plastic. Right now its almost impossible to get those gears out since they embedded into the plastic, but it doesn't matter since the gears ground up pretty bad and the housing has a small hole now.
Any ideas on how this could have happened? I'm running an 18t with the stock spur and had Kyosho 10k diff oil. Can also post a picture If that helps.
Just ordered a complete center differential from ebay and hopefully my hobbyshop has some HB universal joint rebuild kits in stock to fix my DCJ shaft, if not may have to order the whole kit again since I won't know for sure if the pins are the correct size.
Today as I was using my vorza after some hard braking I noticed I had lost power from the front wheels, quickly take of the shell to find the DCJ I had just installed broken free. The pins for the coupling were all gone. I now regret not using some Locktite and a large heat-shrink tubbing to go around the whole coupling like I had read before from various D8 forums. Now as bad as this is, not the worst of my problems.
I then look down to my center differential and notice a hole on the housing and diff oil leaking from it. I take the differential out and take it apart, some how the gears inside expanded into the plastic housing. They somehow were spinning into the housing and shredding the plastic. Right now its almost impossible to get those gears out since they embedded into the plastic, but it doesn't matter since the gears ground up pretty bad and the housing has a small hole now.
Any ideas on how this could have happened? I'm running an 18t with the stock spur and had Kyosho 10k diff oil. Can also post a picture If that helps.
Just ordered a complete center differential from ebay and hopefully my hobbyshop has some HB universal joint rebuild kits in stock to fix my DCJ shaft, if not may have to order the whole kit again since I won't know for sure if the pins are the correct size.
08-26-2011, 07:19 PM
#6204
Got some extremely bad news and could use a little help on figuring out what went wrong.
Today as I was using my vorza after some hard braking I noticed I had lost power from the front wheels, quickly take of the shell to find the DCJ I had just installed broken free. The pins for the coupling were all gone. I now regret not using some Locktite and a large heat-shrink tubbing to go around the whole coupling like I had read before from various D8 forums. Now as bad as this is, not the worst of my problems.
I then look down to my center differential and notice a hole on the housing and diff oil leaking from it. I take the differential out and take it apart, some how the gears inside expanded into the plastic housing. They somehow were spinning into the housing and shredding the plastic. Right now its almost impossible to get those gears out since they embedded into the plastic, but it doesn't matter since the gears ground up pretty bad and the housing has a small hole now.
Any ideas on how this could have happened? I'm running an 18t with the stock spur and had Kyosho 10k diff oil. Can also post a picture If that helps.
Just ordered a complete center differential from ebay and hopefully my hobbyshop has some HB universal joint rebuild kits in stock to fix my DCJ shaft, if not may have to order the whole kit again since I won't know for sure if the pins are the correct size.
Today as I was using my vorza after some hard braking I noticed I had lost power from the front wheels, quickly take of the shell to find the DCJ I had just installed broken free. The pins for the coupling were all gone. I now regret not using some Locktite and a large heat-shrink tubbing to go around the whole coupling like I had read before from various D8 forums. Now as bad as this is, not the worst of my problems.
I then look down to my center differential and notice a hole on the housing and diff oil leaking from it. I take the differential out and take it apart, some how the gears inside expanded into the plastic housing. They somehow were spinning into the housing and shredding the plastic. Right now its almost impossible to get those gears out since they embedded into the plastic, but it doesn't matter since the gears ground up pretty bad and the housing has a small hole now.
Any ideas on how this could have happened? I'm running an 18t with the stock spur and had Kyosho 10k diff oil. Can also post a picture If that helps.
Just ordered a complete center differential from ebay and hopefully my hobbyshop has some HB universal joint rebuild kits in stock to fix my DCJ shaft, if not may have to order the whole kit again since I won't know for sure if the pins are the correct size.
08-26-2011, 09:19 PM
#6206
I was thinking a small hole wow! And it looks like one of the gears just spun out to the outer of the diff. when you changed the diff oil/fluid the 1st time did you make sure you put it back together all the way. I know on some diffs there's a spring on the shaft that holds it in place and others a pin that does too. That's the only thing that looks out of place really to me.
08-26-2011, 09:44 PM
#6207
According to the manual it's a small pin and a set screw that holds the bottom half of the gears in but I never actually removed those when I changed the diff oil. I just took the spur out and leaked as much oil as I could, which wasn't much to begin with, then cleaned it a bit and added the oil. I made sure that it was spinning correctly when I placed the spur back together, and everything seemed fine. Would adding too much oil do this? Because I did add like about 3 dots of oil.
Really not sure what could have happened, I don't think the front drive shaft could have done this even though it did fall apart. Gonna have to check the front and rear diffs to make sure the gears did grind as well. I'm hoping they didn't.
Really not sure what could have happened, I don't think the front drive shaft could have done this even though it did fall apart. Gonna have to check the front and rear diffs to make sure the gears did grind as well. I'm hoping they didn't.
08-26-2011, 09:50 PM
#6208
Selling my vorza. Dropped the price way down. Going for 430$ SHIPPED!!
Really need this gone.
Thanks.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...take-lqqk.html
Really need this gone.
Thanks.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...take-lqqk.html
08-27-2011, 06:52 AM
#6209
Lipo run times?
Hey guys curious as to what you get for run times on 4S 5000mah lipos? I'm using 2x 2S 40C Turnigys... Today I ran the car bashing and I ran for 50 minutes... Could have gone a little more... Checked voltages, cells were at 3.87 3.85 3.87 3.85 I was doing runs in a school yard and park paths etc etc... half throttle to full mostly 3/4 throttle and turns in oval track type shape...
08-27-2011, 08:17 AM
#6210
Hey guys curious as to what you get for run times on 4S 5000mah lipos? I'm using 2x 2S 40C Turnigys... Today I ran the car bashing and I ran for 50 minutes... Could have gone a little more... Checked voltages, cells were at 3.87 3.85 3.87 3.85 I was doing runs in a school yard and park paths etc etc... half throttle to full mostly 3/4 throttle and turns in oval track type shape...