Z4Kevo

iTrader: (7)

I ultimately pinned down my overheating issues to the amount of braking i like to do and the heavier weight of the Vorza. Extra weight = extra brake & extra heat. You have to drive it differently for sure and a lot of people just don't like the way it feels as a result.

I like the 112mm shocks...it feels more in-touch with the surface by allowing the wheels to travel further down to maintain contact with the terrain. But to take full advantage you will need to make some additional mods.

The axles will rub against the A-arms and the camber links will rub against the wheels if you try to get full extension of the 112's. So you will need to add the droop screws to lock maximum travel and get the camber links to clear the wheels...and also cut a little away from the a-arms to get the axles to clear as well. Pretty simple, but needed.

First pic shows the droop screw location on the left and the camber location that would rub at full extension as well as the axle clearance with the cutout.

The second pic shows the modified arm and a new arm with a red mark at the location to cut away.

TimMo846

iTrader: (1)

The stock servo is one of the things that should be replaced. It goes out pretty fast, IMO. I know there a few guys on here that still have the stock servo and it works like it's brand new. As far for the BLS451, the amount of torque isn't that high. I would recommend a servo with at least 200oz. @ .15secs. The BLS451 is only 147oz@ .10 secs might not be enough to push the servo saver. I'm running the BLS452 and it's 195oz @.14 and it does a great job. As far as the brushless vs brushed servos, with us it's more of what works better. The Hitec 7955TG has a lot of torque which is good when on a sticky track or surface, but the speed is a little slow(personal preference). Also its digital as well so it's really smooth. I've noticed a lot of people are switching over to Savox servos, great price for a good quality servo with great number. For example the Savox SC-1267MG I have on order right now is 291oz @ .09secs and only cost $95.99.

TimMo846

iTrader: (1)

Could you post a picture of where on the topside of the arms where you need to cut away for the clearance? With a nice big red circle around where?

Z4Kevo

iTrader: (7)

Modified the post above.

TimMo846

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, the lines and circle really helps! lol I will make a note of this when they get here. Might wait to put them on and order another set of arms prior to cutting away so I have a back up set.

individual1

iTrader: (1)

Isn't there an adjustable BEC output voltage through the Castle link?

ChrisVorzaNinja

iTrader: (1)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTJL20qSO7U

Z4Kevo

iTrader: (7)

From what I remember it is set at approx. 6.0v and can't be changed.

TimMo846

iTrader: (1)

+1

individual1

iTrader: (1)

What's a comparible kit? Ve8? Any other good ones that are real popular? I like the Vorza, but I'm not opposed to building my own kit.

bigben1165

iTrader: (9)

thought i would chime in here since i flew helis for 10 years. people are def. using the brushless/coreless servos from futaba, but they are using them on the tail. on the tail you need lightning speed but not much torque. i would be a little concerned using one for the steering on a vorza where you would want torq in the area of 200-300oz/in.

hope this helps

bb

bigben1165

iTrader: (9)

the ve8 is close, but the D8 hara addition used with an e conversion would be the closest kit you can get. plus you would have the parts needed to use mech. brakes if you decided to.

individual1

iTrader: (1)

The new thing with Heli's is "Flybarless". Uses 3 servos on the swash(CCPM) and usually they're rated roughly 170oz each on average. Due to the flybarless gyro.. It's good to have those three servos FAST too. Most are about .06 to .10 speed. Which is just about as fast as tail servos. Yea.. That's why I'm leaning towards the Vorza. I read the D8 is nitro but the Vorza was built around it, but only electric. I can't stand nitro so that's not an option. Read some things about the gear mesh and some broken/missing parts since these are put together at a factory. What's the definate things that should be double checked after opening this up from the box?

jones8352

iTrader: (1)

I finally got the rest of the parts to finish my Tekno chassis kit. Every thing is new except for the motor. It's a 2200 and it had the short wires so I made up some extension wires, they don't look too good. When I have more time I might make up another set. It already has dirt on it but that's ok it's not a shelf qween.

The next pic is the pic paint job, I absolutly hate the look of the 8ight body and it didn't come with any kind of a nose cone. I need to find some kine of small nose cone, it would look better. I put on a DE bumper skid and one of their rear skids. Plus I couldn't stand the thought of getting that beautiful chassis scratched up so I put on a chassis protector.

The second pic is my quicky dog bone repair, if you ever lose a pin out of one of you bones just put a screw in with a locknut it'll get you going.

The last pic is for Ben!!! I should have zoomed in a bit. LOL

TimMo846

iTrader: (1)

What price range are you looking to get into with a kit?