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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

SabaII 04-20-2012 10:49 PM

Just put RPM A-arms on I got with a truck I bought on here. Problem is the cup on the hub comes in contact with the arm. The hub will not even go straight because of this. It doesn't look I can do anything with what I got. I checked all the parts and they are correct. Here are a couple pics. Anyone seen this? Thanks.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h4...IMAG0219-2.jpg
You can see the angle it sits at here. This is with the arm level
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h4...0/IMAG0218.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h4...IMAG0220-1.jpg

J_Bone 04-20-2012 11:44 PM

That is weird. Both my son's RTR (with bog bones) and I (FT CVD) have RPM a-arms and neither one had a problem. :confused:

AlanHall 04-21-2012 12:00 AM

Hey guys.. my tracks closing next week :-(.. I've got a super nice 13.5 setup truck I just listed.

SC10 Beginner 04-21-2012 03:30 AM

Yow Thanks guys second thoughts ordered a new SC10 thow also I have orderd a bunch of rpm parts I got one other question whats the differnce if the motor is brushed or brushless in my SC10? Sorry for my bad spelling its not that i cant spell its my phones keyboard

beanforge 04-21-2012 03:57 AM


Originally Posted by SC10 Beginner (Post 10632757)
Yow Thanks guys second thoughts ordered a new SC10 thow also I have orderd a bunch of rpm parts I got one other question whats the differnce if the motor is brushed or brushless in my SC10? Sorry for my bad spelling its not that i cant spell its my phones keyboard

Go brushless. More efficient and waaay less maintenance. Totally worth it. If you're on a tight indoor track, go smaller on the motor than you think you should. I learned that lesson the hard way.

beanforge 04-21-2012 03:59 AM


Originally Posted by SabaII (Post 10632382)
Just put RPM A-arms on I got with a truck I bought on here. Problem is the cup on the hub comes in contact with the arm. The hub will not even go straight because of this. It doesn't look I can do anything with what I got. I checked all the parts and they are correct. Here are a couple pics. Anyone seen this? Thanks.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h4...IMAG0219-2.jpg
You can see the angle it sits at here. This is with the arm level
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h4...0/IMAG0218.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h4...IMAG0220-1.jpg

I'm not sure this really solves your current problem, as it sits, but you could switch to CVDs and have plenty of clearance. I don't know how else to make that work. I have RPMs and CVDs and have no problem.

sapperguy2000 04-21-2012 04:01 AM

brush-less is a lot less maintenance and smoother running. i would go brushless if you could

Slashed Income 04-21-2012 05:48 AM


Originally Posted by SabaII (Post 10632382)
Just put RPM A-arms on I got with a truck I bought on here. Problem is the cup on the hub comes in contact with the arm. The hub will not even go straight because of this. It doesn't look I can do anything with what I got. I checked all the parts and they are correct. Here are a couple pics. Anyone seen this? Thanks.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h4...IMAG0219-2.jpg
You can see the angle it sits at here. This is with the arm level
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h4...0/IMAG0218.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h4...IMAG0220-1.jpg

Those hub carriers don't look right to me, they only have 2 holes. Maybe the previous owner was doing some experimenting. It looks like the stub axle is sticking out farther than it should.

Stealthpilot 04-21-2012 06:57 AM


Originally Posted by Slashed Income (Post 10632996)
Those hub carriers don't look right to me, they only have 2 holes. Maybe the previous owner was doing some experimenting. It looks like the stub axle is sticking out farther than it should.

+1, they look like they might be from a T3 or something?

SabaII 04-21-2012 07:05 AM


Originally Posted by Stealthpilot (Post 10633162)
+1, they look like they might be from a T3 or something?

I got them from the LHS and they are the same as my old ones minus one hole. The position it holds the out drive in is the same as I checked that. I just didn't budget on having to put cvd's in with these arms and read no where that I would need them to run these. Really frustrated right now as I got this to affordably try my hand at racing and its turning into a friggin money pit. :mad:

Lake Ober 04-21-2012 07:30 AM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 10630758)
The "mesh" I use is adhesive drywall tape. you can get it at the hardware store. For 2wd I don't mesh/goo the whole body due to the extra top-heavy weight, but just do around the body posts, rear fenders, and wheels wells. If you've already gone though one body it's easy to tell where you need to re-enforce.

One thing to watch out for though, is that i've had the mesh/goo pull the paint away from the body. If you catch it soon enough you can use a little CA around the edges to keep it from getting worse.

+1 on everything here :nod:

I agree, its such a pain when my shoe-goo pulls my freaking paint off my body, and then if you put a little too much CA glue underneath it kind of "melt" the paint a little. I actually use a glue sealant (used to adhere images to the inside of Lexan bodies) and brush it over the whole inside of the body once it is painted to kind of seal it a bit. Seems to work better then just leaving the paint exposed on the inside :)

Tradin Paint 04-21-2012 07:38 AM

Although they are nice you don't need CVD's. There is something else wrong here, are you sure those are the correct arms for the SC10? If so I would try to compare the axle with another truck at the track as it has to be either the arm or the axle

Suzukee 04-21-2012 08:10 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Attached picture is of RPM arms, kit dog bones, kit hub, axle and everything.
Your truck has a wrong hub, if the axle is the correct SC10 one.

Slashed Income 04-21-2012 08:29 AM


Originally Posted by SabaII (Post 10633181)
I got them from the LHS and they are the same as my old ones minus one hole. The position it holds the out drive in is the same as I checked that. I just didn't budget on having to put cvd's in with these arms and read no where that I would need them to run these. Really frustrated right now as I got this to affordably try my hand at racing and its turning into a friggin money pit. :mad:

To get new stub axles and carriers should only be about $12.00. These parts wear quickly and should be replaced often anyway.

Arigato 04-21-2012 09:46 AM

SabaII

Is it possible that the arms are on the wrong side or upside down? I accidentally did that when assembling my FT and it was a head scratcher for a few minutes.....


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