In 2.4ghz applications it can matter and then it cannot.

it really depends on the Type of Antenna being used, quality of the wire, quality of the Transmitter.

If you look at RC planes the FrSky brand has 2 ways of doing antenna design, they have 1 RX which has 2 antennas about 15cm long each and will actually switch between them depending on who has the best signal. But they also have a smaller RX which only has 1 antenna wire about 4cm long and I have seen that flown to the point where I Couldnt see it anymore and he still had control. (It was FPV so he was able to tell by his HUD where base station was)

I dont know the quality of the stock AE gear TX and RX but I suspect your old hats like Futaba and Hitec wouldnt have a problem with coiling it up.

Question on Batteries for Racing.

Basically how many and what Size?

Im getting in to racing and am currently patiently waiting for my FT SC10 and various bits, but I need to order some batteries but being new to racing I dont know what Capacity or how many I should order.

My Local track does practice and then 1 race of 6 mins per class, So I was thinking 2 packs being 2S 4000mah 30c? Should give me enough punch and stamina shouldnt it?

has anyone modified the rpm chassis brace to work with the stock sc10 bumper? I want to throw the stock bumper back on since it doesn't hang up as much (From what I've read) so I'm looking if anyone has attempted this.

I have 2 of these
http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=3856

As long as you run 10.5 or a higher turn motor your fine. If you running mod motor go with the 65c ones. They work great for me never had a problem good punch. I recharge after every race and throw the fresh one in while the other is on charge.

Cheers Mate

Im running a 13.5 Novak Havoc setup so I think the 30c-40c batteries will be fine.

Anyone running a Sonic 13.5 on med/large track? What gears/timing?

Just ordered one yesterday. In your opinion would this be something that is needed more for stock or mod? Or is it something that should be run on both?

Also is there any advantage in running the JConcepts battery strap outside of it facilitating a battery that would not fit with the stock one?

If I were you, I would go for a 2-cell battery that is about 5000-6000mah and about 30 or 40C's. I run a setup similar to yours (my motors a bit larger), but I have 3 5000mah 40C's and they work great. I say go atleast with a 5000mah, b/c they aren't much more then a 4000mah, and that extra run-time will come in handy during practice. As far as how many to get, I would say atleast 2 to start. But, I'm sure that after a year of racing or so, you will have like 5+

If your looking for a great value, check out Gen Ace batteries on hobbypartz.com. They are an excellent battery, and will only cost you about $37 each. The hard part is getting them when they are in stock (soo popular that they sell out the week they are back in stock). Another great brand I've had luck with are the neon green Venom packs. I know that some people didn't like them in the past, but I have 2 of them and like them more then my Gens Ace. However, the Venom's are about 2x's as much so I'd hope they're better

amainhobbies has that eco battery the are selling for a reasonable price, similar to Gens Ace but you probably get better warranty service (if they have that on them) that Gens Ace pack. You may also avoid the not in stock but it said it was issue that they still have going on.

Promatch racing also has a nice el cheapo battery too and a great warranty as well.

Bump

I don't run Reedy, but I was running 22/84 with no ESC timing and full (45°) end bell timing.

I put 23/84 on it last night and turned the motor timing up from 20 (center) to 26. Its end bell marks are 0-40. Took it out front and romped it for 2 min and it was 117. Seemed high for 2 min especially considering that was without a body. Esc is in blinky. Seemed okay speed wise, and acceleration was okay but a far cry from my 8.5. I dont want it to be any slower but my temps say otherwise. Same motor in my B4.1 is at 30/69, timing at 24, esc blinky. 140 after 10 min on tuesday.

You can remove the rx box. Once removed, you will be left with the mounting hole and another hole right next to it. This is for mounting the antenna just like on the rx box. If you look online at the SC10 FT instructions, this is how the antenna is mounted.

I'm using an old FM rx with the long antenna. I used the stock antenna tube but I wire tied the top of the tube to the body post mount in the front of the truck. This keeps it from going through the body and the reception is still good.

I would run it on both , I have all the carbon parts. But the only ones I have installed are f/r arms , f/r towers , front hinge pin brace and rear upper tranny brace.

As for the battery strap I would stick with the ft carbon. I wouldn't use any parts that wernt AE. But that's just me mine is all ae with the exeption of electronics and rpm ball cups.

I started with 23 too, but dropped it down to 22. It was near 160° after a ten minute main.

My 10.5 hit 210° last night.