SC10 Thread
03-12-2012 | 03:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
I know I'm going to hate myself for this..........
Which body do you guys prefer on your trucks?
Before you answer, I don't care about looks. So if that's why, I don't care LOL. I'm concerned with how they affect handling, durability, and fit. I am building a racer, not a basher.
Also one other question, those of you who know me from the B4.1 thread, are there specific option parts that everyone uses here that I may have to grab? For example something like " 0 deg alum hub with Carbon Fiber C tower and shaved U brace". I am assuming that you use the same stuff, but I wanted to make sure.
Which body do you guys prefer on your trucks?
Before you answer, I don't care about looks. So if that's why, I don't care LOL. I'm concerned with how they affect handling, durability, and fit. I am building a racer, not a basher.
Also one other question, those of you who know me from the B4.1 thread, are there specific option parts that everyone uses here that I may have to grab? For example something like " 0 deg alum hub with Carbon Fiber C tower and shaved U brace". I am assuming that you use the same stuff, but I wanted to make sure.
03-12-2012 | 03:57 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Right on!
When I used the carbide thrust balls, I had to rebuild the thrust bearing every race day because it felt like I had replaced them with rocks. Since I changed to ceramics, if it feels notchy, its only at the beginning of the day. Usually, I can grab one tire and lightly gas it, and it clears right up. If it doesn't, then the thrust bearing rings need to be resanded, or I have a bearing going bad.
If you are using grease on the thrust bearing and diff lube on the diff balls, the only difference is the Rockwell hardness of the parts. The ceramic parts are outrageously hard and don't wear, carbide does. You can see this for yourself if you get a magnifying glass and look at the shiny surface on a new diff ball and then inspect it again after you've ran it for a while. The carbide ones start out shiny, and when the diff gets "notched out" they are dull.
I have ceramic diff balls that I installed in 2005 that look the same as they second set I bought to replace them.
When I used the carbide thrust balls, I had to rebuild the thrust bearing every race day because it felt like I had replaced them with rocks. Since I changed to ceramics, if it feels notchy, its only at the beginning of the day. Usually, I can grab one tire and lightly gas it, and it clears right up. If it doesn't, then the thrust bearing rings need to be resanded, or I have a bearing going bad.
If you are using grease on the thrust bearing and diff lube on the diff balls, the only difference is the Rockwell hardness of the parts. The ceramic parts are outrageously hard and don't wear, carbide does. You can see this for yourself if you get a magnifying glass and look at the shiny surface on a new diff ball and then inspect it again after you've ran it for a while. The carbide ones start out shiny, and when the diff gets "notched out" they are dull.
I have ceramic diff balls that I installed in 2005 that look the same as they second set I bought to replace them.
Do I need new rings to get it silky smooth or should I go back to carbide?
03-12-2012 | 04:11 PM
What do you guys think of these. They are SS balls, I get between 50-60% off of the listed prices... Are they worth it...
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THO...JL2?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THO...JH3?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THO...JL2?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THO...JH3?Pid=search
03-12-2012 | 04:33 PM
I know I'm going to hate myself for this..........
Which body do you guys prefer on your trucks?
Before you answer, I don't care about looks. So if that's why, I don't care LOL. I'm concerned with how they affect handling, durability, and fit. I am building a racer, not a basher.
Also one other question, those of you who know me from the B4.1 thread, are there specific option parts that everyone uses here that I may have to grab? For example something like " 0 deg alum hub with Carbon Fiber C tower and shaved U brace". I am assuming that you use the same stuff, but I wanted to make sure.
Which body do you guys prefer on your trucks?
Before you answer, I don't care about looks. So if that's why, I don't care LOL. I'm concerned with how they affect handling, durability, and fit. I am building a racer, not a basher.
Also one other question, those of you who know me from the B4.1 thread, are there specific option parts that everyone uses here that I may have to grab? For example something like " 0 deg alum hub with Carbon Fiber C tower and shaved U brace". I am assuming that you use the same stuff, but I wanted to make sure.
03-12-2012 | 04:33 PM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 24
From: The moors of Saukville...
Lately I've notice that I'm getting track dirt in my gearbox - this is an SC10 FT truck BTW with a ball diff...seems I didn't have this problem when it was newer.
Anyone else notice this over time - it must be getting in thru the out drives...just can't figure why lately?
I'm thinking I may put some old shock O-rings in the out drives like on my GT2 if it doesn't interfere with suspension travel or bind.
Thanks for any info etc.
Anyone else notice this over time - it must be getting in thru the out drives...just can't figure why lately?
I'm thinking I may put some old shock O-rings in the out drives like on my GT2 if it doesn't interfere with suspension travel or bind.
Thanks for any info etc.
Best regards...
03-12-2012 | 04:35 PM
What do you guys think of these. They are SS balls, I get between 50-60% off of the listed prices... Are they worth it...
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THO...JL2?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THO...JH3?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THO...JL2?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THO...JH3?Pid=search
03-12-2012 | 04:48 PM
They are Stainless Steel Ball Bearings.
If you are interested go to grainger.com and type in:
4RJH3
4RJL2
They would be under $3.00 shipped for 100 balls each. So for $6.00 I can have 200 ball bearings. Seems a whole lot more cost effective than $.50 a ball. I understand they may wear a little faster than carbide or ceramic... Has anyone used Stainless Steel balls?
If you are interested go to grainger.com and type in:
4RJH3
4RJL2
They would be under $3.00 shipped for 100 balls each. So for $6.00 I can have 200 ball bearings. Seems a whole lot more cost effective than $.50 a ball. I understand they may wear a little faster than carbide or ceramic... Has anyone used Stainless Steel balls?
03-12-2012 | 05:03 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
The FloTek body seems pretty popular and seems to have had pretty decent thought put into the design. Replacing the stock bumper with the RPM unit used to be a must but there is some controversy over that now. Hex are a must here. You will strip out much fewer rims and it makes it more flexible to switch from front to rear with a set of tires. The truck wallows around compared to a buggy. There's been a bit of talk recently about sway bars, at least for the rear to help square up the chassis a bit quicker out of turns. There's a pretty big difference between these and the buggies.
The truck I snagged has the RPM bumper and the hexes already so I'm good there.
Thanks for the input on the FloTek. Can't wait to read some more opinions.
03-12-2012 | 07:15 PM
They are Stainless Steel Ball Bearings.
If you are interested go to grainger.com and type in:
4RJH3
4RJL2
They would be under $3.00 shipped for 100 balls each. So for $6.00 I can have 200 ball bearings. Seems a whole lot more cost effective than $.50 a ball. I understand they may wear a little faster than carbide or ceramic... Has anyone used Stainless Steel balls?
If you are interested go to grainger.com and type in:
4RJH3
4RJL2
They would be under $3.00 shipped for 100 balls each. So for $6.00 I can have 200 ball bearings. Seems a whole lot more cost effective than $.50 a ball. I understand they may wear a little faster than carbide or ceramic... Has anyone used Stainless Steel balls?
03-12-2012 | 07:34 PM
Take the rings off, wipe them clean, and sand them in a figure eight pattern flat on a piece of 320 grit sandpaper with a shot of motor spray for lube. If you can see the ring where the balls ran, you haven't sanded it enough.
The sand marks give the balls a surface to ride on and bed into, not unlike the cross hatch in an engine bore creates a surface for the piston rings to ride on.
As an experiment, I would encourage you to remove the thrust bearing only, clean and sand the rings, re-grease it and re-install it.
And FWIW, I never change my diff rings either. Sand and reuse.
03-12-2012 | 07:36 PM
03-12-2012 | 07:58 PM
03-12-2012 | 07:59 PM
Is there two different gear diff. rebuilds/versions because I got a rebuild kit and the gears were different than the ones that came in the truck? The new ones needed two shims behind each sun gear instead of one like the old set. I didn't like the way it felt little tight/notchy and my track has been loose so I need all my diff action so reinstalled old gears with new seals. Anyway did I recieve the wrong gears in the new rebuild or did they update? Thanks!