im running 40wt front/35wt rear, blue AE front/green AE rear and the rest of the suspention setup is Maifields 2011 roar nats.

What spur & pinion gear for 17.5 running airland track small to medium size. and maybe westcoast track medium to large track both track clay high bite.

i run on a small clay track and im running 75 spur/28 pinion

Some of them do, some of them don't.

If we are talking about rears, gray and white have a different PN. Yellow and stiffer are the same between 22 and 22T.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...de-thread.html

The 22 and 22T fronts are different, kind of.

How some of you guys are running whites and grays I have no idea. When I tested them, TLR 5169 Red springs (Losi rated at 2.6) measured softer than ASC 6480 green rears (AE rated 1.9).

What setup is working for you? I really like yellow in the back, but I'm fighting with the front setup. Tried Losi 22b silver rear springs on the front of my sc10. Way to much spring/lift off our larger triples and a step up that seems impossable to bring my nose down after I clear the peak. Switched to Losi 22b rear orange up front and removed an ounce from under the shock tower and it helped, but I'm just getting too much lift. My track is med/large, outdoor, wet dirt/clay mix, med grip, a little loamy.

I hate to tell you this, but your truck is jumping nose high because your rear is too soft. Mine jumped nose high all the way up to pinks.

I'm running TLR 22 rear orange in the front, and Kyosho yellow in the rear. It jumps perfect, but it is too loose without the swaybars on my dry hardpacked track. When it's wet it's okay, but the setup is pretty free - you have to play nice with the throttle, else the truck will spin out.

Orange rears are a little softer than blue fronts. I messed with the 22T front springs yet, so I can't comment.

Thats actually good news for me! Right now my sc has a ton of steering on and off power. My rear end is very hooked up even with an 8.5, but the lack of lift out back was killing my laps on those 2 sections. Had to double single a triple that I can easily make 10 out of 10 times before the problem. And on the step up the best I could hope for was to not land on the rear bumper. Mashing the brakes wouldn't even combat it. Probably .4 seconds a lap lost total. I have a good assortment of the 22 rears to try. Red, orange, silver, yellow x2, pink, and grey x2. And 22 fronts also, red, orange, silver. I need to get things squared away before Cactus Classic in 3 weeks. I'm gonna try orange up front and pink rear with red on standby.

Just finished the new body for the FT SC10.

Didn't wanna post it in the painters thread cuz it's nowhere near as good as what those guys do, but wanted to share it here cuz it's my best effort to date. Atleast I taped some straight lines for once. lol


[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/61445099@N04/6945553407/]

You gonna retire Old Blue lol? It looks really good man. You getting ready for Cactus? I promise not to be the first to leave a mark on it, unless you are near me when I hit the step up. All bets are off at that point.

Thanks Mike.

Haha old blue is bein held together by stickers and is BEGGING to be retired.

No Cactus for me. Just needed a new body.

W3 tomorrow night? Last race for Friday points... Wed was fun

General SC10 Question here, did a bit of searching and couldn't find an answer. I see on a lot of pro setup sheets they are using 30 degree caster blocks in the rear.

I'm new so please bear with me. I see the part online, it's not expensive, but this is one of those things that's over my head... The answer is probably already on these forums, but like I said I dont even know what angle that applies to or what to search for.

1. What does 30 degrees mean? (Obviously it means adding 30 degrees of angle to something, but I dont know what)

2. What does that do for you?

No can do, working a wedding tomorrow night. Go get em tho, you were flying last week, I'm sure you've got a couple of those points series locked up by now, showin me what a SC10 can really do on that track. You ever race anywhere else Brent?

Hey guys,

Rookie question. I have a set of hpi and a set of proline rim and they look different. Both 12mm hex but the proline rims look flat from side to side whilst the hpi rims have a step down. Could someone explain this to me please.

Oh I'm intending to mount m4 sniper tires and supersoft inserts part 1165-03.

Cheers,

Aj

I got a race coming up in April at a tight clay track that is dry and dusty with minimal grip, need to know all that i can do to my sc10 rs to make more overal grip, more so on the rear, corner exit especially, realy liked the corner entrace and the middle, sucked on corner exit.

My set up is the RS Version chassis, V2 Shocks, Stock esc and 3300 Reedy motor, shock fluids are 40 up front, 20 in the rear, running front ride height higher to get air off the jumps. Silver A/E springs up front and Green A/E springs in the rear. Ride height in front is just above parallel, in the rear chassis sits a bit lower than the rear arms (below Parallel). I was using Hot Bodies Beams front and back. Rear shocks are layed out, front shocks are more upright. Toed in the front just a bit, camber -2 in front, -3 in rear. 2.5 ounces have been added behind the battery. All other setting would be box stock.

Any help would be greatly apreciated currently being beat by my bro inlaws slash and i cant have that lol.

Aj. Depending on the offset of the proline rims (sounds like they r 0 offset) they r probably what goes on the sc10. The blitz rims have more of an offset which means the rims will have a wider stance. The blitz rims will hit ur body so in most cases they r no good. To run the 12mm hexes u will need rim designed for the sc10, sc10 4x4. Jconcepts makes a +3mm rim called the hazard which will fit inside of ur body and give u a wider stance.