Glitch buster's are plugged into any open channel on the R\X. Caps that are soldered to the ESC. Are for the ESC and not the total electrical system. Caps on the ESC stabilize the input voltage to the ESC. While Caps on the R\X stabilize voltage to the R\X.

Drill a hole and tap for your grub

:nod: 3MM and a grub from a pinion

SC10 2wd RTR questions!
 

I have had my SC10 brushless rtr all season and I am looking to rebuild/upgrade. I have noticed a drop in top end and sometimes after hard landing I get a glitch or reset. Anyway someone told me it could be the capacitors going bad and can I just remove them from battery wire? The reason I ask I seen a SCT video where it was ok to remove and could help top end. How long does the Reedy 3300 usually last and is it time for a new setup after one race season? I can't decide if I should just upgrade my RTR like get the FT shocks and a few other things or go ahead and buy a FT 2wd roller and new esc/motor. The truck is solid but needs FT shocks and new diff.

I was weighing similar options a couple of months ago and I decided that a used Factory Team roller was the way to go. If you haven't upgraded other things on your RTR (turnbuckles, differential, shocks, etc.) it makes even more sense, then you can sell the RTR to raise money for better ESC/motor for the Factory Team.

What is the best motor for this truck

"Best Motor" is pretty subjective, as it really depends on what size of track you run on. My local track is 140'x40' indoor, medium-bite clay and 8.5T seems to be the motor of choice for a great combination of torque and higher RPM. I personally run an LRP X12 8.5T with an LRP SXX ESC.

V2 shocks, ball diff and battery strap. Electronics upgrade? C'mon, you know the answer to that one:nod:

My capacitor went bad and I removed from the system. Talked to Associated and they sent me a replacement. I have not installed yet and the truck seems to be working fine. Was told that the capacitor stores power and supplies when needed.

I have one more question! How did your truck act when the capacitor went bad? Thanks!

When I jiggled the wires coming out of the esc the truck would lose power and the light on the speed control would go out. I thought it was wiring but ended up being the capacitor. Removed and all good.

Hah! Thats what mines doing! I made the mistake of letting my wires/capacitor smack on batt./esc. when landing and I believe thats what caused cap. problems I use a rubber band to hold it down now. Thanks Again!

I just picked up an SC10 RS RTR and within 10 minutes the diff began making a clicking noise on acceleration. From what I've seen this is not out of the ordinary, unfortunately, for the SC10. Would buying a diff rebuild kit solve the problem, or do I need those shims from AE?

The shims come in a diff rebuild kit.

IMO the ball diff is the better option. They perform better and from the sounds of it are easier to maintain. There are threads on how to rebuild a ball diff that are fantastic. Don't be afraid, folks! Kick the gear diff to the curb and run ball diffs!!