Could someone please explain which way to go with the gear diff as far as diff oil goes, i have mass oversteer on entry and mid corner and was hoping to settle it down a little, i have 5k oil in the diff and rear camber links in outside hole on hub.. Shocks are in middle hole on tower ,( thinking of trying inside hole on tower which might help a little:confused:)

Thanks for any help.

Don't think changing the oil to another weight would help much , I recommend the 5000w oil ...


Check slipper make sure it is adjusted to slip a little ...
Check your shock oil , ride height , radio brake adjustment ....

Which overtray is the most practical for the SC10?

I'm having troubles setting the slipper of my SC10 FT right, even when the screw is tight, it still slips :confused:. The setup of the diff is good so if you have any idea..

Could be worn pads.

My slipper has to be tightened way more than the manual suggests.

The JConcepts one is awesome.
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=330

You might need to sand your slipper pads and rotors to get the glaze off of them.

When it comes to setting the diff & slipper I'm always intimidated. But here is what has worked for me in my short time with my SC10 short course truck.

Read the 'how to build a diff' guide- http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html

When you have everything installed crank the slipper nut tight. I mean tight! Compress the spring tight.

Now adjust your diff. It should be loose at first. You will hear it. I like to tighten mine about a half turn at a time at first. If you happen to tighten it all the way tight just back it off 1/4 turn. This will get you really close to perfect.

Once you find that sweet spot where it doesn't 'bark' or slip for more than about the first 12 inches of take-off you are there. Most likely your truck will pull a wheelie because the slipper is full tight. If it 'barks' it's to tight. Slipping is to loose.

Now back the slipper nut way off. My nut goes down so far as to show about 1/8" of threads. (Manual says get it just barely past the end. That's to loose.) If you leave the slipper to tight the diff will bark when you hold the rear tires to adjust the slipper.

Go back to the diff guide. You want to hold the rear tires, stab the throttle BRIEFLY. It should pop the front tires about 1-2". No More, No Less!

Patience is the key. You will get there. Take your truck to a track & ask one of the local fast guys for help if you have to.

I saw great improvements when I drilled a 4th hole lower than the inside hole on the tower.

Also, how much weight did you add and where. I have about 3 oz. in the rear of the battery tray and 1 oz up front near the servo.

Good luck.

Thanks for all the tips.

The strange thing is I actually followed the procedure from your link...


"Setting the Slipper Clutch

I will now go over how to set the slipper clutch. To properly set the slipper clutch start by tightening the slipper nut down 3 and ½ turns from when it is flush with the bolt. Now hold both rear tires and have someone pull the throttle, give it a good pull as you are trying to simulate accelerating away from a hard landing. The front end of the vehicle should pop up about three inches. If it does not, stop and tighten the slipper nut about 1/4th of a turn and try again. If it comes up too high, loosen the slipper nut about 1/4th of a turn and try again. Every time you rebuild the diff check the slipper pads and make sure they do not have shiny spots on them, this is called glazing, and can be fixed by carefully scraping the pads with the trailing edge of an X-Acto blade or by replacing the pads. The purpose of the slipper clutch is to protect the transmission by slipping when coming down hard after a jump or accelerating hard. If a sharp whining noise is heard when accelerating, tighten the slipper nut by 1/4th of a turn and try again. Make sure you set your diff before your slipper clutch."


The truck is new, I might disassemble it again because I don't see what could be wrong. I began setting the slipper from the standard setup (0,5mm), and I'm waaaaay tighter than that. I'll try again, I have a race this week-end so I need to find the sweet spot it's getting frstrating. Can the spring be damaged from a full tightening?

Pulse- are you using the ball diff or gear diff? If you have the ball diff make sure to crank the slipper nut down. It won't hurt to fully compress the spring. Set the diff first then the slipper. It was frustrating for me at first but you really do need to crank the slipper nut down.

Did you do the 'break in'? One tire is down and the other off the ground and slowly give it some throttle. I count to about 30, then switch. Do this once or twice. Then tighten the diff a half turn.

If you slowly tighten the diff you will feel when it is about to max out. Carefully tighten it all the way then back off 1/4 turn. I know people will say not to do it this way. But do it this way once to learn.

If you glazed your slipper pads just flip them over and use the other side.

If the slipper nut is to tight your diff will 'bark' (like a grinding sound). Obviously you know what to loose is. Hang in there and you will get it.

How far from 'fully tight' is your diff?

I TOTALLY DISAGREE I BELIEVE IF YOU GO HEAVIER FLUID IN DIFF IT SHOULD TIGHTEN THE TRUCK UP ON ENTRY AND EXIT

Agree. It's kinda the point.
Acts almost like a limit slip diff.

If he went to a heavier weight , say 7000w?

would not have a big effect or improvement and could diff out even more on bumps & exit ....;)

If he had no oil or very thin , I would of recommended the 5000W...

BALL DIFF!:nod::sweat:

Thanks alot guys for all the ideas,

I really like the idea of drilling an extra hole in shock tower and really laying over rear shocks, will give it a go..

Cheers