Wow, im running a pretty similar setup (17.5, timing +20 degress) with a 75 spur and 25 pinon. I ran my car last night for about 10mins and my temps were barely over 110F.

Do you notice that you have no real acceleration with this combo? I have my timing engage RPM set low (9.1k) to give myself that punch to hit a big jump after a turn or slowing down prior.

I have a 24-25-26-28 pinons to try, havent gone past 25 yet though.

The 17.5 classes in my area are no boost on the speedo, but you can advance timing on the motor can. Last time out I had 75/28 with the stock 30deg timing on the can and it felt great...

I've run it at 75/28 with +15 on the can on a larger track 2 weeks ago and it felt even better. I turned the timing back to stock last time because the track was smaller and indoor, to keep temps down.

Edit: If you're at 110F, you're not gearing high enough. Stick a 26 on there and see how it goes.

Good point - i'm definitely not getting the acceleration I want but I'm still trying to get the diff set so it doesn't spin on accellerate. How big a turn do I need to make before noticing any difference on the ball diff? Does the slipper provide any help in this area?

Was thinking of going higher on timing and gearing, but im afraid to loose what little acceleration i have now.

What are your track conditions? Are you racing on high traction surface?


I havent really messed with the ball diff, but i have the slipper tighten down to expose about 1mm of screw. Manual calls for .5mm showing, but that just spins my cluth, no pick up what so ever.

Medium to high traction

Pretty similar conditions, i run on med/high traction, smooth clay, few big jumps.

Actually thinking of trying the setup sheet from AE site. We had the ROAR Region 4 Nationals at the track i go to in Coral Springs. Have the silver springs on order, no LHS i have around me has them.

I run a Novak Ballistic 17.5 with stock out of the box 30deg timing set by Novak on my SC10. Gearing is 29/75 for my local indoor clay track. Track size is pretty big at 6900 sq ft. I get good straight away speeds and good acceleration out of turns and for jumps. After 7 min runs I come off at around 165deg which is still a safe temp. A bump down to 28 pinion would bring the temps down a notch but lose a little in top end. Also with regards to diffs check out the sticky on the "Electric Offroad" section on diff/slipper building and setting. Very helpful. http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html

I ran a 78/27 with no timing on the esc,felt pretty good considering my motor was hurting bad.

ik somebody asked this already but how should i gear my 13.5, i am running 24 75 and its dead slowwww

75/30 with boost was where I was at when i ran 13.5. and it still didnt get hot enough...

Are you racing or just bashing? If you racing, to me, i value acceleration over top speed. Really depends on your track though, if it has a huge straight-a-way where you can easily pass someone, then i can see it.

What are temps? I would go from that rather than pure speed. If you run temps are good, go higher on pinion, but remember, you sacrifice acceleration for top speed.

Any one running steel or aluminum idler gear?

yeah mine was slow when I got my 13.5 too. I have it geared 23/84 for a med sized track. It's much snappier now and still has some top end.

ok thanks angelo ill try 31 75, since u said 30 wasnt hot
i am only racing, and your right i like acceleration but top end does help when your running a big track...temps with the gearing 24 75 are 90 degrees after 15 min...

Can anyone plz post a link to Carpet racing set ups ?
THX

Also, I have a NIB TEKIN RS 17.5 combo For Sale

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...combo-nib.html

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