Ive always been told on carpet you hear the slipper slip some. I run my slipper loose on a low bite dirt track.. Do you have issue with slipping out when you get back on the gas?

Get the 10.5. You can always tune it down. You can't tune a 13.5 up as easily.

not 100% true on 13.5

No, I don't hear it slipping, it's probably way to tight. Which is also most likely part of the reason my diff wants to skip teeth. I just got the truck and kinda threw it out on the track without really setting it up at all, just to play with it. Kid on x mas morning syndrome.....


And thanks for the excellent response lansonfloyd!!

Welcome, hope it helps. I went through teething pains w/ the SC10RS and finally it is getting dialed in pretty good. Since you're on carpet, all my setup ideas are out of the window but I do think you should consider doing the 4th drilled hole in the rear shock tower (like Chad Due, team driver) to get more side bite and a more lazy rear end. Maybe just toy w/ the idea.

cool, also having nose dive problems over the jumps. Slide the battery back, or something else? I was almost thinking it was due to "drag brake", but I am no expert. I am very new to the brushless/lipo scene, I had crap when I used to race compared to this stuff. Trying to make a 4 cell Nicad pack last through a 1/12 scale main, good luck...

You can control the attitude of the truck in the air with the throttle. If you want the front end up, keep on the throttle. If you want to lawn dart, let off. Practice makes perfect. Don't disrupt the balance by moving the battery. Its all about the throttle.

I know this, I run 1/8 nitro buggy. Maybe I am just not used to the 2wd yet?

Any of you guys tried the proline blockade on dusty track? Do you think it will work well?

zero drag brake, battery at full front, BUT in the rear of the tray I have about 3.5oz of weight. I didn't use measured weights, I used heavy heatsink plates from some car audio amps I disassembled a while back. The sinks fit well into the spot and I just double-sticked them to the chassis back there, right in front of the trans.

BTW, I have vids of my races on youtube under my name, if you really want to see it fly. I have a nose-up issue some times, but that's how I leave the jump when it happens. The rest is all throttle/brake control.

Ok so I'll get some RPM A-arms, front bumper/ skidplates, hubs & O-rings

Thanks!

I am going to turn off the drag brake for next time. I need a good setup for indoor carpet, was thinking of limiting the travel of the shocks but putting some fuel tubing on the shaft inside of the shock, and lowering the truck down low. I probably don't want to go to far past level on the rear dog bones though huh?

I know it's been asked and answered several times in this thread but I don't find a good consensus on gearing.

What is a good starting point on pinion and spur running 17.5 ballistic/gtb2 sportsman class?

I ran very cool (90-95 degrees) the other night running 23/81 and finished one lap down to the class winner who was also running an SC10.

I melted an esc and motor running 30/74. I think at this point I'm being overly cautious.

Thanks for the help.

17.5 no boost? run a 75t spur, start with a 26t pinion.... i usually run either a 26 or 28 tooth depending on the track, although ive started running a 28 more even on small indoor tracks. ive seen motor temps anywhere between 160-195. your goal is to have around 160 after 6 mins.

i run 25/78, 150 degrees after 5 minutes. Get a temp gauge, and play around. it will vary from track to track