It depends on the track, we run 10.5 turn motors and use all of it in slash and SC10.

ok, upon taking the gear cover off, the spur is slightly chewed. But it still sounds fine taking off in a straight line. If you hold down the spur, and turn the back wheels by hand. It is smooth as glass, no noise. If you hold one tire and give it a little throttle, still no problems. If you hold one tire and give it 3/4 throttle, the clicking/grind sound starts. Any ideas? Suggestions on the easiest way to pull the diff out? Yes I built the truck, but reverse engineering ain't my thing.

As I said earlier my SC10 is dialed with the black grease. 17.5 with 75/28 and there wasn't a Slash that was even close. Its not a fair advantage to them. I am running the Goosebumps which helps a bunch. The other SC10 that was running had the same setup except for shock oil and we finished 1 and 2 with a lap on third place. NO noise in my diff. I've read the problems you guys are having and all I can say is WOW! Hopefully you'll get the bugs worked out because this thing is a blast to drive. AE is a great company and I'm sure they'll work with everyone thats having problems. I'm running the Kurt Wenger setup from OCRC with 35wt front and rear.

Mine made ZERO noise the first day I drove it. I didn't change ANYTHING and today it was making noise. I built this truck to the "T" and I'm bummed I'm already having trouble.

SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS! SAVE THIS CLASS OUTLAW GOOSE BUMPS!

IF you want to run goosebumps race your T4 or B4. KEEP THEM OUT OF SCT CLASSES! If your too slow and want an advantage GET ALOT OF STICK TIME!
Being a better driver can be your advantage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!

Everyone is comparing motors, gears, and handling advice, but no one is talking about track surface type. The trucj is going to handle different for everyone, unless we're all on the same track....right??? A 17.5 for one will be enough and not enough for others. Don't forget the factors guys.... talent level and track bite! I think the sc10 can handle a ss5800, which is comparable to a 9.5 or 8.5, with the right throttle control and even run it hard with the right bite.

What is the rear toe on this truck stock? Sounds like many need to add some...Can't wait to get mine and try it next weekend. (haven't ran mine, but seen others at my track)

I keep seeing people say that they are gonna try 2k, 3k, 5k etc.... this is WAY TOO THICK. Kurt was in here and said to use grease or 20-30wt shock oil. This is like 400cps oil, 2k would make it like a solid spool and make the truck want to spin out everywhere.

Fail

I guess what I need to do is tighten the screws encasing the diff, and/or shim it. What shim do I use, and where do I shim it? How much grease do I use? I just put a thin line all the way around when I built it

I do agree with allot of you guys on the tail happy on throttle problem. I also got killed buy the same slashes that I beat every week with my own slash. I added the castors , front springs and rear camber link and will give it a go this week again. The slashes being so heavy just seem to be able to put the power down better and control power slides. My power slides out of the corners are extremely hard to control with the sc10.

Are you guys modding the battery hold down to move the battery back more? I noticed on the t4's the battery is against the rear tower. Maybe its something to try to get these to handle better

couldnt agree more.

That's a silly conclusion to draw. It took months to figure out how to make a Slash fast and you expect the SC10 to kill it right out of the box with zero learning curve?

The SC10 guys who got spanked will be faster next race and once the platform is figured out it will be a whole other story. Rome wasn't built in a day.

Not too bad of a crash, just a tender spot on the chassis.
If you have one of these you'll see.
Better (way better) drivers than me have broken them here too.
One even happened at the RCX Expo. OUCH.
This will surely prevent this or just repair it quickly/permanantly.

Yeh Dude, it's all about the sharpie, gotta be done just right or it won't work.
Have fun changin your chassis, you do have one of these right?
AE will hook you up for sure and F N Racing Stuff will keep it from happening again.

Me and my buddy both had our trannies making the same noise yesterday.
He took his apart and found nothing, regreased it, ran it again and killed the teeth on the diff gears inside.

I took mine apart and also found no damage to the gears but did find that after many, many battery packs the shim on one side of the diff gear under the pin had become "dished" which would allow the gear to move away from the 4 gears in the center of the diff makin the mesh loose and allowing it to slip under acceleration.
I reshimmed the one side, 2 shims under the pin, and reused the original gears.
Practiced and raced today, and had no issues at all.

My buddy not so lucky, he tore up all the teeth and the replacement set is $16 on top of all the tear down and rebuild.
I think the 2 shims will also hold up to the dishing better.
I used boat trailer wheelbearing grease (cuz that's what I had handy) to relube the diff since the black grease I put in there looked pretty thin after this much use.