I know what you mean, if tracks don't know how, or aren't willing to strictly monitor and enforce rules, no sense in having them. Our track is a prime example, our stock class usually out qualifies our open mod class and its by at least the top 3 guys. Our track rarely checks the ESC and never cares to look at motors...If your so unwilling to want to tech yet still want the concept of a nice STOCK class, simply have a Hand-Out motor class. Track buys locked endbell motors in bulk for probably ~$40-50 a pop, and make them handouts each night for an extra $5 and at the end of your series you keep it, or just sale them and make them mandatory. Esc you will just have to be on top of them, but I believe its motors and excessive timing on the can that have gotten out of hand..

Shock nuts
 

I have noticed that the plastic shock mounting nuts (#6472) are soft and it's very easy to ruin the threads. After that, they are no longer tight and there's some free play on the top end of the shock.

Is there any replacement for these nuts? Preferably metallic nuts which could be tighten without fear of ruining them...

I see what the other guys saying about it being about the same cost except you break and wear out parts much quicker IMO but not a big difference. Also we run 17.5 2s lipo thats the only rules so boost and any other tweaks are allowed so if your going to run 17.5 thats the way to do it. I must agree with you about 17.5 at large events it's very hard to monitor and I understand mod/open is much better at larger events. Our turn-out is around 40-50 racers total for local points series so we can't run all those classes because half of those people race one class either E-Buggy or 4WD SCT open but I believe there's nothing like a nitro buggy or a dialed 2WD sct which takes alot of work and testing which is half the fun to me. On our track I run 37-39 sec. laps with boosted 17.5 2wd SCT and open 4wd runs about 34-36 sec. laps on average so not really much faster than my 2wd but I know it's a dying format and I guess I'd better go get a 8.5 or just run my nitro buggy instead of two classes. Too many rookies trying to drive Pro setups in 4wd (hackers) so I am staying out of that mess at my local track anyway. Also I am the fastest 17.5 guy and leading points so of course I am frustrated.

Question Re Maintenance.

1) How often does everyone rebuild there shocks.
2) How often does everyone rebuild there gear diffs (for those of you still running them)
3) Ho often does everyone lube/replace there bearings.
4) How often does everyone replace there slipper pads?

Had my RS on track now for about 6 packs (re 3 hours running time) and the right rear shock is leaking. Have a rebuild kit, bleeder shock caps and the Kyosho O Rings on the way.

I was thinking of making a standard and doing it every 5 hours (10 or so packs).

1. Not a total rebuild, but flush oil and refill every week.
2. N/A
3. As needed. Some last longer than others. Inspect bearings weekly.
4. Test weekly and will take apart every 2-3 weeks. V2 pads are 2 months old and still good.

All rc shocks are going to leak. The silicone seals are not the strongest and when a shock piston packs, the force will force oil out at the weakest spot.

Thanks.

Im expecting parts orders in the next 2 weeks.

Ill stip it down and lube everything but wont replace.

has anyone tried the C tower and shaved chassis brace on this truck?

Hmm I think I already asked this but now I cant find it....

Just ordered a Hobbywing X10 Combo

(re: The bottom one on the list http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=243)

And am not sure what Pinion to run, I have a 18t and a 19t, Im thinking I will need a 22/23t?

I'm running that same motor with a 120a ESC. I run a 23/75 gear combo for a FDR of 8.48. The 13.5 recommendation is an FDR of 8.5. My temps are 140 after 5 minutes. I would start with 22/75 and check temps. Go to 23/75 if you can stand it.

Legend!

Hey Guys,

I went to my LHS yesterday to pick up a pack of AE Factory Team solid axle pins (Part #ASC1654), to replace the stock roll pins that came with my SC10. When I got there and found out they were more then $1 a piece I was kind of surprised. The owner of the shop, told me that he sells long 3' pieces of metal rod that are stronger then the AE pins, and only cost $.60 for the whole long piece of it. So, I took it to the bench, cut out a few pieces of it to the length of the AE roll pins I was replacing, put them behind my new Avid hex adapters... and they worked perfect. However, now I have a huge piece of this metal rod, and rather then just letting it sit, figured I'd help some fellow RC'ers out. So, if anyone on here wants a piece of it, just PM me your address, and I will mail you out a section of it that you can easily cut 4 pins from... you can just use a strong pair of wire cutters or a Dremel, to cut it down to the desired size. Don't worry about paying me anything for it... just leave me some feedback if it works out good for you. Beat's paying $4.00 for a pack of em' :D I am only going to be sending these to U.S. addresses. Sorry non-U.S. guys

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/7573/pinss.jpg
^^^ Here is a picture of some pieces I have cut down all ready to send out. Each one of these pieces is approximately 7cm long, and will be long enough to make atleast 6 axle pins. I recommend using these solid axle pins only if you are using hex adapters. They do not fit in as snug as the stock roll pins do (neither do the F.T. pins), so they work best if you use adapters... as they hold the pins in place.

I know this question was asked, and answered, within the last 1-2 weeks (on this SC10 thread). Just look at posts a few pages back, and I'm sure you'll find what your looking for :)

I haven't yet, but as soon as I get the C-block I will let you know. My chassis brace is already cut down.
Two guys did this and they were hooked up and flying! They said it was a must!!

Here's one way to control the cheating

At any given time if a driver thinks another driver is cheating you throw down $100 on the table. If he is in fact cheating you take that car/truck for $100 as it sits. If you are wrong and he is not cheating he gets the $100 bucks. Obviously everyone at the track needs to understand and be in agreement before you would put something like this in place

Not sure how many people would be willing to give up their car/truck for $100 just to win a club race

Hi guys, do any of you run the Kyosho Big Bores on your SC10's? If so what oil and springs are working for you. Cheers in advance.

How to remove transmission bearing
 

Small bearing in trans case will not pry out. No access to punch out from the outside of the case. Anyone know a way to get out without damaging the bearing.

I just ended up buying a new transmission case. I'd love to not have to do that again, so I too am interested in what people are doing to remove these bearings.

-kyri

What do you mean by cut down? Are there pics someplace that show this mod?

-kyri

I have a pick/hook set that I used. I was able to get the point between the bearing and case and pry it out.

I don't have pics at this moment. On the rear camber link, you grind down flat where the inner ball stud mounts. The stock brace sits up .060/2mm or two washers high.

just put the top shaft into the bearing and wobble it and pull lightly at same time the bearing will pop out

I pry mine out with either a nitro tuning screwdriver or eyeglasses flathead screwdriver found in a eyeglasses repair kit

I take it this is on the tower mount? after you grind that off I guess your not using any spacers either huh? whats this do over stock??

The inner ball stud screws into the chassis brace. The tower mounts on top of that. Some guys had one washer while others had none.
I was told it will give more rear wheel traction. I dont have the c-clock to install yet so I'm going off what the ae guys I race with said.

This is how I do it. I actually have an old one I use as a tool I put a handle on with some JB Weld.

I too would be interested in an answer to this.

all i could find was toward the bottom of pg 795. didnt really answer it for me tho. maybe i missed something :D

thanks!

for u guys asking about the c hub tower heres what i found. if your truck is already rotating well and your trying to get more side bite the c hub is the wrong way to go. its seemed to make the truck more loose on entry and takes away alittle forward bite.
as for running kyosho bb on the sc 10 all i can say is that a freind tried them on the buggy and the car way better on the v2s. they take away from the agility of that platform.and i think they will do the same on the sc. i just switched to ae after 4 years with kyosho and the ae cars are more more direct feeling and way more responsive to driver input. i never felt like i could race hard head to head with the kyosho, with the ae cars i can push way harder and not just turn consistant laps but race side by side and usually come out smiling

What do people use for fluid with the gear diff? I have 3,5,7,10,30 and was wondering what I should put in a friends car.

2000 (real loose) to 7000 (high traction). find your happy medium from there.

Here's a picture of a cut down one.

hey guys when you increase limiters in your shocks how many intervals do u go up or down at one time. my set up calls for 5 in front and 3 in rear and im adding them to help with this traction roll prob im haveing at the moment . please give me a lil advise. one more thing if i dont have enough limiters can i use ball stud washers instead they seem to nb the same size n thickness as i place them side by side?

You can go that route, try adding more negitve camber to help with traction roll. Are you running the Maifield setup? I'm running the 5 washer in front and 3 in rear, but I have my shock located in the drilled #0 hole. If its in the #1 hole I would only run 1 limiter washer.

Don't use the ball stud spacers. The shock spacers are plastic and the ball stud washers are metal and will scrape and gouge the shaft and wear in out in a matter of minutes. Only use the plastic washers.

yeah im running the maifield setup and im in the drilled #0 hole and my truck is traction rolling and have a lil more steering than i want and i wont use the metal ones either my friend, how much more neg camber should i add? im already at -1 all around

Ok, try adding more negitive camber. Some people have gone back to the #1 hole.
The Maifield setup is real aggressive and responsive.
I had to use the expo in my Radio to dial out some of the steering. Mine is set to -50

Old post may help

yeah i have tried some of these options like usind a less aggressive tire which did help mellow it out a tad i think it may b the track also because our lay out has bn there for 6 wks or better and the traction is super high lol and on my b4.1 im running slick all the way around and had to make a few changes due to traction rolls lol. is expo the same as dual rate on the radio?

only changes that i have made to the geomerty aspect of the truck is taking 2 limiters out of he front shocks from 5 to 3. and i shaved my u brace

No. Dual rate changes the end points or diastance the servo will move. Expo speeds up or speeds down the servo to the distance you turn it on the Radio.

Taking limiters out will give more roll and give more side bite. You add more to help limit side role.
With the shaved u brace, you have the c-hub ?

I posted this earlier in the week, and already sent out about 6 pieces of it. I still have 4 pieces left and are packed up ready to send out. Anyone else interested???

Yeah I have the u brace n it is wrkin at the moment