I just have to give you mad props for being a cool dude, doing something like this for fellow hobbyists/racers/forum members. Definitely a big hat-tip for you, sir! :nod:

This is the C-hub.
http://www.glitchrc.com/prodimages/ASC9873.jpg

Haha, thanks man :D I just feel like it's a small way to repay some of the guys on here for all of the priceless knowledge that they have provided me with over the past few months. The thing that I came to like about R/C, were the really nice people, so any way I can encourage good sportsmanship... I will :nod:

Yeah man I have the c hubs and they are good, now ik having electrical probs man. Idk what it is I'm racing and all of a sudden I lose steering, the servo is perfect I took it out my b4 and I wrked perfect but i. Think it may b the reciever its a futaba r2104gf

Same here, man!! You're one of the good ones! :nod:
Mad props, dude!! Enjoy your weekend and try to get some racing and/or bashing in!! :D

Well, I finally got to put a few laps on my new FT SC10 this evening! Still needs some adjustments but it felt pretty dang good out there!

A few pages back, I read where someone converted their SC10 to a T4 stadium truck. What parts are required to make that conversion?

I'm assuming:

1) T4 chassis
2) Wheels and tires
3) Body

What other parts are required?

Thanks for the help.

Broke my front left Arm.

:(

Its funny my spares are at the post office waiting to be delivered.

+1,000,000 Thanks you

Put a glitch cap on the rx.

I purchased the avid hex adapter set for the sc10 and jconcepts hazard wheels w/ 3mm offset. Has anyone else noticed the axle is more narrow then the wheel opening? and will that affect anything?

Nope! It will push tight to hex and I use two of the blue alum. spacers/washers between nut and wheel because the axle threads stop before the wheel gets tight. Avid adapters might be wider and only need the one spacer/washer but not sure.

I tried that with no luck and today I lost steering and throttle for a slip second or two

Well you have 2 options.

1) Run a separate LiFe or NiCD battery to power the esc and rc like I do.

2) Run a seperate UBEC to power your servo and rx.

The hex fits secure with the wheel but the axle coming out of the wheel is more narrow then the opening. :confused:

Do you mean the axle does not stick out past the wheel very far? If so are you sure you don't have a set of rear hex adapters on the front by mistake?

No, there is plenty of threads and the hex fits well also. It's the hole that the threaded axle comes out of the wheel from, which is bigger. Should I be concerned or will everything snug-down when the axle nut is tightened down?

It's only bigger so it can fit other axles too. It'll tighten up fine against the hex adapter. No need for washers or shims with Avid hexes.

i know that the reciever is my prob cause i have used the servo in another car and it did just fine and also the esc and the esc use to b my buddies and we use to run this truck together at the track a few times a week, what i been thinkin about doing is just sending in the reciever back to futaba and get it replaced

chassis, wheels and tires(if you have reg axles on your sc10, if not you will need front axles and spindles and spacers for the rear), body mounts(front and rear), front bumper, battery strap and body.

Try running your Servo and RX off of a seperate battery pack.

You will most likely find that the ESC you have cannot provide enough power to the power hungry servo and RX.

Its a common problem when using Spektrum gear and Savox servo's.

I had a similar situation and it was my RX. I would lose both steering and throttle.
Can you see or hear your ESC rebooting when this happens?

Has anyone tried running the rcshox garodisc slipper pads on a 2wd Sc10? Interested to hear your thoughts if so.

-kyri

My sons and I run 3 sc10's 2wd with the Garo's. They offer more punch than stock, more consistency pack to pack, and they don't wear or fade at all. We have about 10 packs apiece on the garo's and I would not go back to the stock.

idk if it starts rebooting cause im in the driver stand when it does it so i cant hear anything frokm that distance lol. but it is something that happens everyday so far, it normally is hit or miss it may go a entire battery pack before it does it and then it may do it couple times during a 5-7 lap tune run

So I am about to pull the trigger on the Avid Spring sets for the SC10, however, after searching around, no one gave a clear answer on what all is needed to ensure that they fit. I found info about Big Bore shock springs in general and wanted to verify that these would work to mount up the Avids just fine. Thanks

Traxxas Shock Spring Retainers (Upper & Lower)
[TRA3768]

Team Losi Racing 12mm Shock End & Spring Cup Set (TLR 22)
[TLR5095]

Yep, those are the parts you need :nod:

So I picked up a used SC10 and it has RPM front and rear arms. Is the general consensus that the stock arms are the way to go for racing? I don't bash my stuff, just race.

You can use them to race with. There are some fast guys who still use them. It's just if you want any added security that they won't break.

New shoes, New Shirt.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../IMG_02262.jpg*

Not bad for my first time if I do say so myself!

* Its also a lil darker its not really that light a blue.

Looking good! Im getting my next body ready to paint as well. I hope to have it done for the Top Gun Shootout here in San Diego next weekend, but its not looking good. I'll have to use my beat up body still I think.

Some people have issues with ride height when they use the 22 spring cups with the Traxxas uppers. I believe the Traxxas lowers are a lower profile than the 22's. Also you could drop a little coin on the Ghea threaded shock collars to help with the ride height. GHEA2070 AE B4/B44/T4 Convert collars for big bore springs.

http://www.ghea.se/GHEARacing.php

I agree with Jbone that you can race with them, IMO the stock arms are the way to go. You have more tuning options with the stock, even more options if you use aluminum spacers in place of the one big black one. This also depends on what you will be racing on. A hard packed high bite track you will be able to feel the difference (even more with the carbon). On a loamy type outdoor track your not gonna get the same feeling the loose dirt will numb most of your finer adjustments.

I raced with RPM arms for months, the plus side is you will be hard pressed to break the arms.

IMO, if you plan on doing strictly racing... then I would take off the RPM a-arms and put on stock AE ones. Yes, the RPM stuff is more durable, but truly, the stock ones are very strong. I have had the same AE arms on my F.T. for the past 6 months, and have never had one break on me (and I've had my fair share of gnarly wrecks :nod:). Plus, it won't even cost you all that much to purchase the stock arms... it's only about $15 to buy both the rear and front's. They are definitely going to work better for you if you plan on racing.

Looking good man! You sure are really trying to optimize that airflow :D

Thanks guys!

I converted my RC10T4 to SC10 three years ago and have always used the Carbon Arms. I am mostly racing and even if I go to a track to have fun I am really just practicing for race days. I have broken enough arms to say that they break for sure if you are not careful. If they get a little scuff mark on them it can lead to breakage as well. The cost is not bad but the bigger issue is I have 4 right front arms and 0 left front arms in my kit. Seems that I break the left front much more than the front.

I have only broken 1 rear arm in more than two years.

I love this truck. I spent some time on the weekend rebuilding the transmission after a really dusty track. I had to lube bearings and clean the crap out of the trans case. I replaced the trans case, rear CVAs, and small stuff and she is ready for another day. Check out the local track I was running.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtdDW...&feature=share

Here is my latest shell after my re-work this weekend.

http://i697.photobucket.com/albums/v...x/100_0059.jpg
http://i697.photobucket.com/albums/v...x/100_0060.jpg
http://i697.photobucket.com/albums/v...x/100_0061.jpg

Thanks man! Made this one for the AKA SCT Tour that is happening down here.

Just opened up the stock air holes a bit. It's the proline flotek raptor body.

Nice makes mine look like amateur hour! Haha.

nice work