I switched to gear diff on all my cars/trucks that I was able to with.
I ran a ball diff in my B4.1 than a gear diff. wasn't able to feel any advantage over the ball. I put some Ofna 3k diff oil in the gear and off I went. works just fine. I have ran my fastest laps with it.

I just got sick of the always needing to adjust it or rebuild it, making sure it doesn't slip.

I have reinstalled a Ball diff just to see how it felt now. I went back to the gear diff. just fits me better I guess., just my opinion

Ball diff, gear diff....I believe it's situational on the track type and personal driving styles. If you check the AE setups you will notice some guys are running gear diff's with good results.
From my short time running Short Course trucks I've noticed a bit of difference in the diff's. Now, this is just my experience with the two diff's and no setup changes were changed other than the diff.

Gear diff = Worked really well on high bite tracks where traction is good. I got great steering while on the throttle and it had no problems with side traction or forward bite. The problem for me is, that's not the type of dirt at my closest track. It's clay with OK traction when wet, but once it dries out it's slippery. When I try to get on the throttle mid turn with the gear diff, it would loose traction and spin out fast and forward bite was not so great as it wanted to fish tail on the straits. I did try different diff oils, but results for me were the same.

Ball diff = Worked really well on medium to low traction type dirt (did not drive it on the high bite track). I was able to get on the throttle more aggressively coming out of corners and it stopped spinning out and fish tailing. Which was great for my local track. The one negative I noticed was that I lost mid corner steering while on the throttle. So I had to drive it harder into the corner and square up before I got on the gas or feather the throttle through the corner.

I'm going to make some chassis adjustments to regain some of the on-power steering while keeping the ball diff as I preferred it in this truck. Which is a bummer for me since I'm a gear diff guy from my 1/8th scale days and tons of diff oils to choose from.
This is just my interpretation and experiences as I'm not a Mechanical engineer (just a career Mechanic by trade) and know the design philosophy behind the gear diff vs. ball diff.


On a second note:
The word around the water cooler(track) was to use carbide balls in the diff and ceramic on the thrust bolt. Yes the ceramic bearings will last longer than the carbide but were more susceptible to slipping because of the hardness and low friction. But worked fantastic on the thrust bolt.
I can see this have some kind of truth to it as I used ceramic bearings (17+ years) at work (which are water lubricated and impervious to harsh chemicals) and the reason we use ceramic bearings is because of the hardness and low friction. Which makes them very dependable.
Do any of you notice them slipping and have to tighten them a bit more than the carbide?

Good info right there. With that all being said. I am going to try out the Ball diff again tomorrow night in the Buggy., my SC10 has no problem with traction. it grips and moves. the Buggy has traction but it does have a hard time getting it right out of the corner.

Just a quick question... I noticed after doing the JConcepts 12mm hex conversion and buying JConcepts 12mm hex wheels with BarCodes on em, it seems as if my tires stick out a bit more from the Pro Line Pro 2 Silverado body. They almost get stuck in the body when I push down on the rear suspension.

Did I buy the wrong flipping wheels?

Thats what it sounds like, the offset of the rims seem to be different than what you need to run with the hexes on the SC10

I run the jconcepts hexes on my truck with jconcpets hazard rims with no problems. It's right at the ROAR legal limit. Can you post a pic?
The hazard rims have a 3mm off set so they will stick out farther than the stock rims.

~But not so far as to hinder the body. I run them myself with the jconcept hexes.

I dont have a pic at my office but will try and take one when I get home. I bought the slash wheels but it was my undestanding that all hex style wheels will now work on the SC10 with the conversion.

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I love my factory team sc10, wouldnt buy anything else, havent broken a part yet.

No, different trucks need different offset wheels. After the hex conversion, you can run the SC10RS/SC104x4 wheels, wheels for the Losi SCTE, or the Proline wheels for the ProTrac conversion. The offset on the regular Slash wheels make it too wide.

I am running carbides in my diff and ceramics in my thrust currently. I have ran a bunch of combinations in my FT's ball diff, and this is certainly the smoothest and best setup yet. I read a post where a worker of B-FAST stated that this was the best way to setup your ball diff., and it truly is!

will try soon, i got the kit for all my cars lol lol lol lol

And that might be the issue right there. Stopping by HT tonight on me way home and will look to grab the right set of wheels and tires. Shoulda known I would make this mistake. LOL. Now what happens if I run the Hazzard +3MM wheels?

I run the jconcepts hexes and Hazard wheels and the wheels right at the edge but not sticking out. Kinda perfect, I think.

Aiiiiiiiiiiiiiight. Sounds good to me. Looks like I got the wrong wheels. D'oh.:blush: Oh well... I'll pick the right ones up today. Thanks for the help guys.

MY NAME IS LAKE... AND I AM AN ADDICT! :lol:

So, I just realized, I have an addiction to my R/C car. I am always quite busy and only get to go to offroad practice at my local track on Tuesdays from 4-9. Well, we had a huge oval event at the track last week, so they didn't have practice all last week so they could set up the oval. Majorly bummed, I was patient and waited till today. Packed up all my stuff, drove to the track... to find out it is still setup for oval and won't be switched back until sometime next week :cry: Now, I'm depressed and realized I'm addicted :D

Real men turn left and right

Well your safe. A real addict would be in the car driving 4 hours to find another track. A true addict will get their drug at any cost

heh.. glad I read that. I was contimplating driving 5 1/2 hours to RCE for their SC race and I don't even run SC yet

My feelings EXACTLY Brent! :nod:

I am scared to see what my total investment is at this moment. I have boxes at my door step everyday. Addictions is an understatement...

Lol, I'm only up to one weekly order so far...

I was going to stick with the gear diff at first since I already had an assortment of oils to tune with, but mine kept leaking after a brand new build, and I had thought I wore out a gear (but ended up being something else) and picked up the ball diff so I could get up and running by the weekend.

anyone have any preliminary suggestions on a Grinding in the Tranny>Slipper Setup? When I take off the cover it doesn't echo as bad but it sounds like something's grinding up against something every rotation.

- It did this with the Ball Diff and the Gear Diff
- And with the old Tranny case, and the new Tranny Case.
- Checked Spur and Pinion, perfect, pads, plates, fine.
- The only thing I see is the Topshaft is wobbling a bit. But it goes into the tranny smoothly.
- All bearings are solid and free spinning.

It's odd to me. It drives great, It's not causing any drag either. Only an extremely obnoxious "broke" noise.

Can you take a quick video so we can hear the noise. Check the motor plate screws, if one is too long it could rub the slipper...

check to make sure the long transmission screws arent hitting the back of the slipper plate.

Gearing for my first off road race ever.
 

Good day!

I just bought an sc10 2wd last sunday and have been busy fixing all the things wrong with it. I am going to a my first off road race this weekend and would like some help with gearing. The motor is a castle 4600 4 polel and the speedo is a mamba max pro and it has a ball diff. The spur is an 81 tooth. The track was started to be put down today so the surface is anyones guess. Here is the layout of the track.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10360644-post109.html

Thanks, Neil.

Transmission Screws are floppy loose, and the noise remains. Not the motor either.

Video:
http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/7/hv7.mp4/

Actually sounds cool,like a revving engine.
Don't really have a clue what it can be

I couldn't see the video on my phone but make sure the inside slipper plate isnt rubbing the motor plate.

Nope.

It's not a metal screech grind. You'd have to listen. it's plastic tap at high speed is the best I can describe it.

check you diff and make sure you not missing something..it also sounds like a spun rotor on your motor...check your motor

I said in my original question, that the ball diff and my brandnew gear diff both were present during this noise.

the motor spins great, no sound.

It may sound great under load but it may cut loose with the pinion connected to the spur. Its a pretty horrific sound when I have heard it. Have you tried a different motor yet?

The load being 3 gears and no tires on a bench? :confused:

Its a huge load compared to just a pinion. Re-reading your post, if you have a bent top shaft it will make quite a racket too. We're throwing out suggestions here. Don't knock 'em til you've tried 'em.

Hahahaha well when my track is down, my nearest is 40 min away and I'm down for the git down so 40 min later I'm running laps lol lol:smile:

How tight is your gear mesh?

I am 80% sure it is the Mesh from the top shaft to the idler.

I have this same noise in my B4.1 tranny after I replaced the Idler and top shaft along with new Avid bearings. also tested with old bearings.
Even installed old parts back in noise gone. new parts noise back.

Not sure 100% what it is with the gears but I am pretty sure its the idler to top shaft gear mesh.
I also tested it with 2 different ball diffs and 2 different gear diff's same noise

I bought a Factory Team SC10 and it came with plastic rear hubs, was it supposed to come with aluminum? I thought it was just like the B4.1