Thank God for 2.4GHz!

Reedy ESC capacitor Question
 

Removed what appears to be a capacitor from my Reedy ESC. It is the component that is between the esc and the battery plug. Power was cutting out before removal and now works fine. Question is do I need to replace the component or not. Also, what is the function of the component. After removing, I ran the truck and no apparent glitching. I have also have a glitch buster between the receiver and 6040 spektrum servo. Thanks

Add reare toe at the hub carrier. 1/2 to 1 degree.

I use Xcelorin 60C 6000mah batts, mainly because my 4wd SC (SCTE) needs the high C and mah rating so I use those batts in all my vehicles. I'm considering the Revtech 65C 6500mah as my next batt though, they're slightly cheaper.

+1, perfect for SC trucks, best bang for buck, but be careful, you may need a cap on your receiver to stop glitching/cogging. I run a spektrum cap in 2 out of my 4 Tekin RS setups, no cap needed on my RX8.

At least you finished your main. We had an 8 min A main in Pro2 Mod for a trophy race I attended this weekend. I was battling for 1st in the first 5 mins, and even took first place, but shortly after, a drive rollpin broke and I lost power to the left wheel. I couldn't even limp for the finish since there was at least 2 mins left. I was extremely upset, I even have the 12mm JC hex conversion. The last time I broke a rollpin was when I was still running the stock wheels.

Regarding your rear traction issues, what springs are you running in the rear, and what toe block are you running?

I have recently moved to using the 12mm hexes. I have the JConcepts aluminum hexes in the rear. What is everyone using for the front....the stock plastic RS hexes?

BTW....I have a huge pile of JConcepts White Rulex wheels with like new JConcepts Green DD's, Subcultures, Goosebumps and Bar Codes if anyone is interested. I will let them go cheap. They are for the stock setup which is bearings in the front and pin in the rear.

Thanks

I still haven't been able to convert my fronts to hexes. I have way too many tires that have the stock bearing-in-wheel setup and will lose a ton of tires if I convert.

Was thinking of that, will give that a try for sure.

I just bought that exact servo from hobby super store (local to me) for $60. I bought the cap just in case. I havent tried it without the cap, but its one fast servo. A tad loud though.

Im running the stock hub carriers, which are 0 i belive. Running the same setup as JR mitch (found here) This is the track i run at, same conditions.

bake them off

parts needed
 

hey there u guys and gals out there, i traded a rustler for a sc10 rtr but i want to kno what parts do i need in order to make it a ft truck and make it handle as well also?

I use the same rear hex and stock RD front hex.

Yes, they are power hungry that is for sure.
Using a MMP need a BEC or glitch buster
Novak pro I do not need a BEC or glitch buster.
Stock RS ESC need a glitch Buster

The power capacitor on the ESC is to filter the current through the ESC. I have fried an ESC cause the capacitor broke due to high current spikes going through the ESC. If you have a super high discharge battery it can supply whatever current your ESC delivers to the motor. Often times when you are running hard and hit the brakes you will spike the current feedback through the ESC and without the capacitor you will over current the FETs. So make sure you replace the capacitor.

What is the specs on your battery?

seeing that you're already running 3 deg of rear toe, you can try running a softer rear spring (greens) or as per the suggestion above, add .5 to your rear hub carrier via the FT .5 deg aluminum hubs. bear in mind that you will need the larger outer bearing and a new crush tube if you go this route if you're still running the stock plastic hubs.

+1, for sure replace it...if its one of these.

Thanks man, I have to finish the installation up tonight. What are these glitch busters everyone has talked about? I turned my car on briefly to center the servo before installing the horn and I noticed it was going crazy. Looks like I'ma need to pick one up.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tage-Protector

It's the cheapest cap out there and it works just fine. I run a few of these in my cars.

Exact one i have, paid $6 at LHS. No glitchs with my 1258TG.

Same here. I bought 3 of them only use 2. for 6 bucks and a back up or to help someone out having the problem. worth it lol

Thanks guys, hoping the hobby shop has one when I go for practice tomorrow night. Got the servo in a few minutes ago, man is that thing fast!!! There is a setting on my DX3S to slow it down a bit correct?

SC10 is making loud grinding noise when I make hard rights.
 

After reinstalling a new ESC and Motor in my SC10, things are running mostly great, I just have one issue where there is a "grinding" (or fast loud clicking) noise coming from somewhere in the Motor/Transmission/rear area, but only when I am making a hard right and the backend is rolling hard to the left. Doing the same turn going the opposite direction does not make the noise.

I set the Gear Mesh (Spur and Pinion) and Slipper Clutch according to the manual. I don't see and visible damage/wear on either gear.

Is this something anyone else has experienced before? Any help with this would be great!

most likely the gear diff, shim the sun gears in.

+1 on the shimming the sun gear. I haven't had to do it on SC10 2wd but had major clicking noises in the rear end on my SC10 4x4. Others on the 4x4 thread suggested to use one or two shims. It only needed one on one side and...viola. No more sound.

Wheel wobble on SC10 RS
 

I have just 1,5 months old SC10 RS with the Associated's stock hex wheel adapters and KMC hex wheels. With this setup, there is way too much free play on the back wheels. There is a youtube video with id "oXBA-wR2XbI" which shows what I am talking about (cannot yet post direct link due to being a new user in rctech).

I have rear axles according to manual: after the outer bearing there is one shim before the roll pin and the hex adapter. I have multiple set of KMC wheels but all of them have the same problem.

There was also discussion on another forum that the threads on the axles could be too short to allow the nut to be tighten fully. Due to this, I added additional spacers between the nut and the wheel but this didn't help either.

Is this a common problem or just something with my unit?

Yeah, I thought they had fixed this issue, but I was out last week with a brand new SC10RS out of the box and had the issue surface after twenty minutes of track time.

The shims need to go after the wheel bearing, but before the roll pin. At least two shims (they come w/ the RS hexes) per side is what I needed. The shims ride the bearing too, so you can really snug that wheel down.

It is an issue, one I've had and it ruined a few wheels for me too.

I had a few issues with wheel stripping until i used the old backplate behind the nut to attach the wheel. :)

I just popped off the Right Dogbone and found that the O-Ring that goes between the Dogbone and the Gear Diff Outdrive (cup) is missing. It looks like this is allowing the Dogbone to travel to far in toward the diff, which means it's almost falling out on the Axle side. I am hoping the noise is coming from the end of the Dogbone rubbing on the Arm. I will pick up new O-Rings tonight and let you know how it goes.

If you still have problems pooping out a dogbone, use nitro fuel line. It allows you to take out more of the slop.

I just added more o rings :lol:. After i get v2 shocks ill get the cvds.. I like them much better. They add a little side bite also...:tire:

Ya, you can do that too I just had problems with the oring wearing out and losing a dogbone. I think personal that the fuel line is more durable and cheaper.

Could someone please explain which way to go with the gear diff as far as diff oil goes, i have mass oversteer on entry and mid corner and was hoping to settle it down a little, i have 5k oil in the diff and rear camber links in outside hole on hub.. Shocks are in middle hole on tower ,( thinking of trying inside hole on tower which might help a little:confused:)

Thanks for any help.

Don't think changing the oil to another weight would help much , I recommend the 5000w oil ...


Check slipper make sure it is adjusted to slip a little ...
Check your shock oil , ride height , radio brake adjustment ....

Which overtray is the most practical for the SC10?

I'm having troubles setting the slipper of my SC10 FT right, even when the screw is tight, it still slips :confused:. The setup of the diff is good so if you have any idea..

Could be worn pads.

My slipper has to be tightened way more than the manual suggests.

The JConcepts one is awesome.
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=330

You might need to sand your slipper pads and rotors to get the glaze off of them.

When it comes to setting the diff & slipper I'm always intimidated. But here is what has worked for me in my short time with my SC10 short course truck.

Read the 'how to build a diff' guide- http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html

When you have everything installed crank the slipper nut tight. I mean tight! Compress the spring tight.

Now adjust your diff. It should be loose at first. You will hear it. I like to tighten mine about a half turn at a time at first. If you happen to tighten it all the way tight just back it off 1/4 turn. This will get you really close to perfect.

Once you find that sweet spot where it doesn't 'bark' or slip for more than about the first 12 inches of take-off you are there. Most likely your truck will pull a wheelie because the slipper is full tight. If it 'barks' it's to tight. Slipping is to loose.

Now back the slipper nut way off. My nut goes down so far as to show about 1/8" of threads. (Manual says get it just barely past the end. That's to loose.) If you leave the slipper to tight the diff will bark when you hold the rear tires to adjust the slipper.

Go back to the diff guide. You want to hold the rear tires, stab the throttle BRIEFLY. It should pop the front tires about 1-2". No More, No Less!

Patience is the key. You will get there. Take your truck to a track & ask one of the local fast guys for help if you have to.

I saw great improvements when I drilled a 4th hole lower than the inside hole on the tower.

Also, how much weight did you add and where. I have about 3 oz. in the rear of the battery tray and 1 oz up front near the servo.

Good luck.

Thanks for all the tips.

The strange thing is I actually followed the procedure from your link...


"Setting the Slipper Clutch

I will now go over how to set the slipper clutch. To properly set the slipper clutch start by tightening the slipper nut down 3 and ½ turns from when it is flush with the bolt. Now hold both rear tires and have someone pull the throttle, give it a good pull as you are trying to simulate accelerating away from a hard landing. The front end of the vehicle should pop up about three inches. If it does not, stop and tighten the slipper nut about 1/4th of a turn and try again. If it comes up too high, loosen the slipper nut about 1/4th of a turn and try again. Every time you rebuild the diff check the slipper pads and make sure they do not have shiny spots on them, this is called glazing, and can be fixed by carefully scraping the pads with the trailing edge of an X-Acto blade or by replacing the pads. The purpose of the slipper clutch is to protect the transmission by slipping when coming down hard after a jump or accelerating hard. If a sharp whining noise is heard when accelerating, tighten the slipper nut by 1/4th of a turn and try again. Make sure you set your diff before your slipper clutch."


The truck is new, I might disassemble it again because I don't see what could be wrong. I began setting the slipper from the standard setup (0,5mm), and I'm waaaaay tighter than that. I'll try again, I have a race this week-end so I need to find the sweet spot it's getting frstrating. Can the spring be damaged from a full tightening?

Pulse- are you using the ball diff or gear diff? If you have the ball diff make sure to crank the slipper nut down. It won't hurt to fully compress the spring. Set the diff first then the slipper. It was frustrating for me at first but you really do need to crank the slipper nut down.

Did you do the 'break in'? One tire is down and the other off the ground and slowly give it some throttle. I count to about 30, then switch. Do this once or twice. Then tighten the diff a half turn.

If you slowly tighten the diff you will feel when it is about to max out. Carefully tighten it all the way then back off 1/4 turn. I know people will say not to do it this way. But do it this way once to learn.

If you glazed your slipper pads just flip them over and use the other side.

If the slipper nut is to tight your diff will 'bark' (like a grinding sound). Obviously you know what to loose is. Hang in there and you will get it.

How far from 'fully tight' is your diff?