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Old 04-29-2010 | 11:43 AM
  #4231  
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Originally Posted by Low&Slow
Remember what I said in the Original Post.. Blue and Green are alot Closer than Gold and Green.. the Stiffer the front springs are the more pressure is placed on the outside tire during the turn.. hence more bite (well to a point) and you are also correct about too light can cause push.. I guess we could all agree that from the Factory the setup is way off.. which is just a let down from AE.. hmm I do have A way I determine which springs are best for each end of the car its half black majic the other half makes sense based off of vehicle weight.. I actually make a turnkbuckle setup that locks the front end in a arms level configuration.. then I put the rear shocks on with no oil or orings but do use the plastic spacer.. I try to find a Spring for the rear that puts the rears arms level with the battery and motor installed.. with out adding additional preload in other words i try to find a spring that naturally puts the suspension in the needed position.. once that is found I follow up the same on the front.. sounds weird I know.. but has always seemed to work for me.. I adjust dampning based on weight bias if the rear is 50% heavier than the front than I iwll use 50% more pack in the rear.. so the front and rear react to loads the same amount and also have same loading and unloading characteristics left to right front to rear.. this is not all mine.. I'm not going to come on here and claim to be some self professed RC god just sharing what Ive learned and noticed over the years..
I'm not sure I followed that but if it works for you then great. Since I did not start with a RTR kit I can say that I have not experienced the factory stock set-up. I took my initial set-up from the set-up sheets from the pros on the AE website for my track type. From there I make small changes to improve areas that I need like rear traction or reducing push/understeer. I did have stability issues through high speed turns with soft suspension as mention. I move the hubs to the rear extending the wheelbase and this was reduced. I have a ball diff so managing the tension on that can effect both steering and rear traction through corners. In fact this may be my current oversteer issue, too tight on the ball diff.

This is one aspect of RC Racing that I love. Tweeking the set-up to find what works for me is almost as much fun as racing.
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Old 04-29-2010 | 11:53 AM
  #4232  
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Originally Posted by ShortCourseOnly
I'm not sure I followed that but if it works for you then great. Since I did not start with a RTR kit I can say that I have not experienced the factory stock set-up. I took my initial set-up from the set-up sheets from the pros on the AE website for my track type. From there I make small changes to improve areas that I need like rear traction or reducing push/understeer. I did have stability issues through high speed turns with soft suspension as mention. I move the hubs to the rear extending the wheelbase and this was reduced. I have a ball diff so managing the tension on that can effect both steering and rear traction through corners. In fact this may be my current oversteer issue, too tight on the ball diff.

This is one aspect of RC Racing that I love. Tweeking the set-up to find what works for me is almost as much fun as racing.
Yes what you are saying about the Ball Diff is True... if in fact it is too tight the rear end of the car will come around during acceleration .. but Id make sure that the front and rear are unloading the corner together first.. like we have been talking about..The Gear Diff works fine for 17.5 Power or Stock.. FIll it with Black Grease it will give you consistent diff action.. then go back and work on the setup. like I said if the front unloads from the corner before the rear then you will have to wait longer to get on the gas.. mess around with some of this stuff and see what happens.
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Old 04-29-2010 | 12:15 PM
  #4233  
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BTW with the exception of One time in all my RC endeavors did one of those setup sheets work for me.. I simply do not trust em.. The Companies do not really put out the the detailed info racers need there are secrets well not really secrets just things they dont want us to know about..cause they figure we wont understand or get it anyways.. many times the stuff the pros do is so different than what you read in car action or others.. how to setups or find setup is the Black Art of RC Racing unless you can figure it out for yourself or someone tells you... you are Stuck in the Back... Do you really think or Believe driving talent separates us all that much it dont after a certain point we are all as good of drivers as we will ever be.. The rest is Setup knowledge.. I have found this out the Hard way more than once in my racing endeavors. There are some awesome drivers in the pros just pure talent 20 or so drivers.. however there are fewer now than one would think many of the guys are helped along or have been helped by someone who knows what to do when and how to win!! I have been Sponsored before trust me when I tell you it is not a good deal the Companies still have favorites that they help along in the racing and other guys that just take up a spot in the pits.. Oh dont worry I know which one I am..
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Old 04-30-2010 | 08:34 PM
  #4234  
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Just got my SC10 wired up. I am running a 10.5 and going by the manual I should use the 87T spur with a 24T pinion. I only have a 25T pinion until I can get a 24T tomorrow but figure a few laps up and down my street couldn't hurt.

So I get the spur on but there is no way the pinion will fit. Is there a different motor plate or something? Even if it was a 24T pinion, there is nowhere near enough room for the 24/87 combo.
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Old 04-30-2010 | 09:20 PM
  #4235  
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Originally Posted by Jamie James
Just got my SC10 wired up. I am running a 10.5 and going by the manual I should use the 87T spur with a 24T pinion. I only have a 25T pinion until I can get a 24T tomorrow but figure a few laps up and down my street couldn't hurt.

So I get the spur on but there is no way the pinion will fit. Is there a different motor plate or something? Even if it was a 24T pinion, there is nowhere near enough room for the 24/87 combo.
you need to get a smaller spur gear. and 24/87 is pretty slow for a 10.5, maybe go 23/78 or 24/78. how tight is your track?
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Old 05-01-2010 | 01:32 AM
  #4236  
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Blew the cobwebs off mine finally, took it to OCRC for practice and racin.

Man I missed this truck but it didn't work like it did when I put it away a few months ago
When I put it away, it was money $$$.

Today it acted like a box stocker before any tweekin, it sucked on ice!
Spinnin out on the gas, off the gas and just coasting thru the corners at speed. Loose city!

Went thru the whole truck, shocks, springs, gear diff, (Buggy King put his magic touch on this, thanks Matt!), even went as far as switching from 1 degree hubs to 2 degree hubs and it still sucked hard!

Bowties w/AKA foam for rear tires and cut stockers with AKA foam for front tires.
Should be pushin like a bulldozer right?
Not happening.

Sauced the rear tires and an extra set of eyes saw that the rear stub axles could be touchin the cross brace on the rear arms again?
Cut some more clearance into it and threw it back on the track.

It worked.
Was it the tires?
The extra clearance?
Who cares!?
It worked.
Got a TQ and a win, hey, it's not my fault a couple of the quickest guys chose to run their 1/8th scales instead of their 2w SC trucks.
Diggin this truck again.
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Old 05-01-2010 | 05:00 AM
  #4237  
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Originally Posted by z50king
you need to get a smaller spur gear. and 24/87 is pretty slow for a 10.5, maybe go 23/78 or 24/78. how tight is your track?
I had it at 25/75 just for a bit.

The manual says 24/87 so that's why I was going to test that set up.

I was going to try 20/75 as someone in this thread is using but the gears are way too far apart.
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Old 05-01-2010 | 06:05 AM
  #4238  
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This may have been asked and already answered,, has anyone run into problems getting a lipo battery that is too tall to fit in the SC10 stock chassi set up? If so what's the remedy?

Thanks!
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Old 05-01-2010 | 07:04 AM
  #4239  
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Hum...is the factory team version out yet?
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Old 05-01-2010 | 10:54 AM
  #4240  
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F N Cuda...I just put the new sc10FT setup on my truck and it's pretty dialed! You can find it on rc10.com under Josh anderson's setup for ocrc. MY truck used to be loose on the indoor tracks and now actually has a bit of a push...very easy to drive!

Try the new Jconcepts SCT Suburbs...heard they are hooked! They should be available soon...

JG

TRU-JCONCEPTS-TEAM ASSOCIATED
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Old 05-01-2010 | 11:11 AM
  #4241  
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It's all about the AKA wishbone. Dialed!!
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Old 05-01-2010 | 11:20 AM
  #4242  
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Originally Posted by Pimpin
It's all about the AKA wishbone. Dialed!!
can u order them yet?
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Old 05-01-2010 | 12:36 PM
  #4243  
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has anyone tried to put the vcs2 shock caps and bladders on the shocks yet ... i cant seem to get my factory team shocks to feel right..i think its because im not rebuilding them right.... will these caps and bladders help with this or am i wasting my time thinking about them.. .thnx Will G
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Old 05-01-2010 | 02:36 PM
  #4244  
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Originally Posted by zanernator
can u order them yet?
Your LHS hobby store should have them in by now.

If not just go online and buy from there.

Available in soft (green) and super-soft (orange) compounds.

They come with their closed cell
foam too!!
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Old 05-01-2010 | 05:13 PM
  #4245  
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Any other options out there instead of the Factory Team hold down? Wanna go a cheaper route since the kit hold down doesn't allow me to use any of my Lipos without a hack job mod.
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