http://www.therczone.com/glossary/de...slipper_clutch

http://www.rcracingusa.net/slipperfaq.htm

these should explain it a little better...

getting rid of one of my sc10's....

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ball-diff.html

Due to a robbery, I haven't got enough stuff back to race until last weekend.

Tried the pinks on the car and it was undriveable. The softness of the spring, made the rear end unload all the time, and was forever spinning out, admittedly on a damp track. Tried the red on front, and improved, tried red all round and improved, and then orange front, and improved further still.

Guess it's horses for courses, but didn't work on the 1/10th grass/astro track we ran at this weekend.

Running on a 1/10th grass track this weekend, and ordered some silver, green, and blue to try out as thought the car was quite twitchy.

Hey guys. Just wanted to know what spur you were all using for a 17.5? Big outdoor track is what we race on.. Thanks.

I'm running losi shocks with front red and back pink.

Works great.

It's been a while since I ran mine and I have forgotten what I have in and on my Losi shocks.

Pimpdude, what oils and pistons you runnin.
I'm pretty sure I tried to match what was the ticket with the AE shocks back in the day but don't have a clue what that was.
Something like silver rear and gold or red front springs but lost on the oil.

I'm also guessin the whole setup has changed in the last 6 months or so with the killer tires, rear toe in, etc...

So hook a brother up!

What are some setups for our local clay spots. OCRC and WCRC?

Any homey's tips are welcomed cuz I'm blowin the cobwebs and dust off of mine and gonna be in your way soon.

Haha no problem!

Running red pistons in front and black in rear. 35wt oil all corners. Pink front and yellow rear springs. B limiter in front and A limiter in back.

I have my whole setup written down and I'll have to transfer it to electronic setup sheet and post up for you guys to try my ocrc setup and see how it works for your driving style.

Thanks Pimpdude,

I'm gonna go run mine as is/was (it was the shizzle a while ago ), see how it works, try to figure out what I had and compare it to what you and the others are doin.

See ya in the dirt.

Here are some pics of an SC10 body just sprayed up in the five time....uh, still 4 time champs scheme...








...Jim
W.E.D.
www.wedjim.com

Okay I have been watching this thread for a while.. and finally decided to post some thing about the SC10 setup BOX Stock is all wrong it couldn't be worse than it is.. 22 Yrs in this Hobby I would like to offer some free insight.. so here goes. For a very long time AE released kits that were pretty good box stock Especially Buggies and Trucks.. For some reason when the B4 T4 series Began it started to go downhill. I dont know why it just did, However I must add AE still remains My Favorite. Okay what you guys want to hear.. The SC 10 is all wrong because of a wieght Bias Issue combined with problems with CHassis roll and Spring Stiffness. First the car needs to be weighed on all four corners with A-Arms Level And Battery to the rearward position with the Stock Battery Strap.. DO NOT PUT YOUR BATTERY ALL THE WAY TO THE BACK!! What you are trying to figure out is the weight bias difference figured in percentage. This will allow you to select Springs Based on that figure.. most of you suffer from one ill handling trait on the SC 10 when exiting a Corner the rear end of the Car Breaks Loose they all do it.. This is Because the Rear end of the Car has too Soft of Springs and The Front has too Stiff.. when exiting the Corner the front end unloads much earlier than the rear hence weight is still on the outside rear tire causing the car to come around..
Okay so right well DO you need to buy scales NO!! but you owe it to yourself to try some of these things I talked about today. My SC 10 Has AE gold On the Back and Black on the Front it jumps flat and loads and unloads evenly
THE NEW ERA MODELS FRONT SWAY KIT.. helps as well but it not needed
My Front pistons have four holes my rear have 2 and theres and 25 wt all around.. the whole point is Balanced handling it can be done.. I going to stop here and see who responds or tries this setup then if there is interest I'll post more

What surface are you running on? This seems like a good set-up for carpet. I have had great success with a soft rear in loose dirt were traction is very low. You have a very different set-up which is very interesting.

OK , I'll bite....I have to agree with the balance of your car. Thats how it is in OnRoad...you want all 4 corners to weigh the same & balanced left to right.

I run my battery in the Stock location(lipo) we all know is lighter than the old packs & added 3/4 oz up front around the servo
Ae shocks with 40 oil, Blue springs up front & silvers in the rear. with #3 piston. I added limiters to the front shocks(2) to take out droop, & a rear swaybar(silver) with an added 1 degree of rear toe with Proline Calibers.

I run on Red Clay...hard packed,loomy & dusty & blacked grooved

I like the way it handles

My set-up is closer to RCRacing4Ever. My set-up works well for me and jumps and corners great.

Front: Blue Springs, 3 limiters, 35wt oil, 30 degree casters
Rear: Green Springs, Silver swaybar, 2 limiters, 30wt oil, 1.5 deg toe hubs
Battery: Stock rear position with FT Battery strap.
Tires: Panther Switch 2.0 soft for hard clay track.

The only issue I am targeting is a little too much push. I am planning to change to the 25 degree casters first and then go to stiffer rear springs (Grey).

Im using 30degree casters in the front & I added 2 limiters to take the front droop out in the shocks...seemed to work for me on a 10.5.
I've never went pass a gold spring in the rear & that was on a high bite tight technical track.

Remember what I said in the Original Post.. Blue and Green are alot Closer than Gold and Green.. the Stiffer the front springs are the more pressure is placed on the outside tire during the turn.. hence more bite (well to a point) and you are also correct about too light can cause push.. I guess we could all agree that from the Factory the setup is way off.. which is just a let down from AE.. hmm I do have A way I determine which springs are best for each end of the car its half black majic the other half makes sense based off of vehicle weight.. I actually make a turnkbuckle setup that locks the front end in a arms level configuration.. then I put the rear shocks on with no oil or orings but do use the plastic spacer.. I try to find a Spring for the rear that puts the rears arms level with the battery and motor installed.. with out adding additional preload in other words i try to find a spring that naturally puts the suspension in the needed position.. once that is found I follow up the same on the front.. sounds weird I know.. but has always seemed to work for me.. I adjust dampning based on weight bias if the rear is 50% heavier than the front than I iwll use 50% more pack in the rear.. so the front and rear react to loads the same amount and also have same loading and unloading characteristics left to right front to rear.. this is not all mine.. I'm not going to come on here and claim to be some self professed RC god just sharing what Ive learned and noticed over the years..