Hello all...new to the forum and RC cars in general (I had an old RC10 and a Hornet once upon a time ago). Anyhow, I picked up an SC-10 about a month back and so far I absolutely love it. I bought the kit version as I love putting stuff together and just to give you all a feel for what I have, here's what I'm running.

-SC-10 (obviously)
-Castle Creations Mamba Max 5700 brushless motor and Speed Control Pkg.
-15T(pinion) with the 87T(spur)
-Gold Springs in Front (40W oil)
-Red Springs in Rear (40W oil)
-Black grease liberally applied in the diff
-Battery: Venom 6cell 7.2V 5000mAh NiMH
-Pro Line Beadlock wheels (stock tires/foam for now, but I've got some Pro Line Switch tires ready to go when I chew up my stock ones)

Radio: Futaba 2PL (nothing fancy, but seems to work perfectly for now)
*I also have a swanky little Futaba steering servo, but the model number escapes me for now...

I've had to add a second set of diff shims (part #9829) as my kit came with that plauging problem of the diff chattering within itself. Since AE sent me the second set of shims, I have had no problems whatsoever. Runs great. I also have a spare ball diff that I bought, just in case the AE shim fix turned out to be a disaster.

That's about the long and short of it. I have no real specific "setup" so to speak and there aren't really any tracks around where I live to run at so I'm pretty much romping around in the vacant dirt lot by my house. I am of course open to suggestions on where else to run or optimum "setup" tips for the car (I know it all depends on where you're running at), but I'm referring to major setup type things. I think what I have got going now is more or less a homologation between what I've read everyone else typically runs.

Oh! I amost forgot, I love the beadlock wheels. I have no patience for gluing tires and it's nice to just slap these together and bolt them up...they hold up just fine for me so far.

Also, I had no issues with steering clearances during assembly...just an FYI.

hello everyone i've read every page on this forum since i will be purchasing a sc10 RTR truck soon i have a question that i don't think has been asked yet, ok so what do you guys think is a better up grade for the stock shocks the CVS2 caps or the new AE bleeder caps???

P.S. I THANK EVERYONE FOR ALL THE GREAT INFO

I have the VS2 caps with the spacer mod in the seal stack and they are very smooth and consistent. I hate the emulation of air into the oil, bladder shocks are the way to go IMHO. I did have to put 4mm of fuel tube on the shaft as the shock shaft was bottoming on the bladder.

could please tell me what you did to do the "spacer mod" with the vs2 caps

That's just cut fuel tubing over the shock shaft on the outside between the body and the spring retainer. The fuel tubing gets pinched between the spring retainer and the shock body at or close to full compression, like a bottoming bump stop in a car.

Yeah, my VS2 "modded" shocks are so nice.

Now that I read that again I answered with the wrong data. The seal stack is a bit too tall in the shock, about .030 so. The center spacer in the seal stack can be carefully sanded so the seal stack isn't under too much pressure, pressure that makes the shaft have stiction ( pressure to break the tension of the o-rings squeezing the shaft). I had a problem with the retainers popping out and dumping all the oil until I shortened the seal stack. The other result is that without the stiction the shocks are very smooth.

thanks for the info now one more Q? do you get just vcs2 caps or do you buy the full upgrade kit?? part#'s ASC31121 or ASC31123???

The kit I got was full of TC rebuild parts? I only used the top three parts.

They will work good for sure....

What sort of bias are you guys using in shock oils in this thing? I'm using the #3 pistons (the largest hole) in my SC10 and I'm putting 70wt shock oils front and rear. It doesn't feel too stiff and it doesn't bottom out *as much*.

Springs are the stock ones, I forget what color.

What are you guys running in your shocks and springs?

if you are using associate parts i believe the #3 is the smallest hole. I think they count them like gauge sizes. 70 weight is too heavy, are you on green or silver springs?

You guys need to try some 25 wt in the rear and 32.5 in the front. Get away from the heavy weight oils. No traction.

70 is just insane. Unless your not running a piston. Hahah

what is your guy's opinion on the carbon T4 A-Arms, anyone try them yet??

That is correct. #3 is the smallest. 70 wt is way too heavy with the small holes and soft springs, probably even with the No. 1's. I'm sure it's packing up in a hurry, so it won't bottom, but you may bend a shaft. Tom_chang, are you running on a track or just bashing? I seem to remember you saying you weren't racing? I'm running 35 front w/ no. 1 and 30 rear w/ no. 3. If you're bashing, you might go 45 or 50 front wit no. 1 and maybe 35 to 40 rear with no. 3. If you're just trying to stop bottoming out while bashing, so to a stiffer spring.