I have heard that to fit the RPM front arms you need to use a different outer hinge pin. Is this true? Is there a way around that?

I got the extra hinge pins when I got my arms..just get them as they are cheap..just put rears on and they take the std pins.

What is the hottest motor u guys and girl will run in a sc10???

I am running a Hobbywing 13.5 non sensored and plenty fast enough on our dusty slippery clay track.

I reason I asked cause I got a deal on eBay for a novak gtb with a 5.5 for my sc10. But I know I got to turn it down or buy a 10.5 or something for mod.

Wow a 5.5 in an SC10 will be a handful even turned down.
Never had any success with Novak..sent a GTB back when it was new..had an 8th system which blew in my ERevo..got them fixed under warranty no problem but put me off...saying that do have a Novak Havoc in my F1..only because it was cheap and even it randomly goes into reverse some times

I only had 1 gtb go bad and motor? I still need to send them off. How do u like the gear diff in the sc10? WHat Do u think, the ball diff would be better

It was in the early release of the GTB and sorry cant remember what motor it was... I am used to gear diff in 8th scale and Durango and they dont loosen off and change like ball diffs..harder to change setting as you need to change oil but havent bothered with SC10 and still has grease in it as RTR I got and stll feels super smooth and may have a play with some oils but dont know if it would make a marked difference as goes fine.

I will try putting some 2000 or 4000 at in the diff, and I will give a report on it. I think that it being geared that it would spin out comming out of a turn or be loose. Thicker oil would make it kinda positive track alittle bit,maybe quicker out of the hole. I know I am going to put some of my old t4 setups in the truck. And put the lead in the rear of the truck like the team drivers do on the t4.
Do u remember with sub c and lipo, the difference weight? I wonder if poeple think adout that still? I had my t4 battery brace loaded with lead and the truck felt fine. I wonder if the sc10 was made, or weight with sub c battery packs with it was produced. Or did they use lipos in it for testing?
Sometimes I think of some of the dumbest $h1t!!!!!!!!!!!!

[QUOTE=mini696;7077997]I have heard that to fit the RPM front arms you need to use a different outer hinge pin. Is this true? Is there a way around that?[/QUOTE

Or cut the stock ones down a bit with a Dremel.

Contemplating buying a T4 FT for parts and try and sell off the chassis, bodyshell, wheels etc. I think the main reason, is probably that, to buy even the threaded shocks is almost 50% of the cost of buying the above kit.

Only problem is that the T4 isn't that popular here in the U.K.

Are the threaded shocks worth the money, or is there something better out there - my mate suggested losi shocks?

The Losi cartridge style threaded shocks that came on the Matt Francis trucks are AWESOME shocks, they are getting hard to find tho and you pay for them when you do as the scale and crawler guys like them too. FWIW the threaded associated shocks are a waste of money, there's no difference other than they are threaded. The Losi shocks on the other hand are truly an "upgrade".

Well, saw a guy running a fully T4 outfitted SC10 this past weekend. He wasn't really any better of a driver than me (I'm very new), but it was easy to see that his truck was handling very well.

ben

I run a 5.5 in my sc10 its a hobbywing. Does Alright With the epa at 65

Thanks for comming in buddy. How much lead do u run on ur truck?