tighten down the gear cover screws all the way and itll deform, just back em off a little bit and it will deform less. In a few run the screws wont back out much, just recheck it every now again. a little gap at the top isnt that much of a big deal, with the SC body on it there shouldnt be a single moment that the top of the gear cover is in dirt so its not much to worry about. The slipper button is just something that comes off. When yours does, go take a walk on the track and you will find 4 more.

Thanks for the tip, heheh, that part about the walk is :lol: but true... :lol::lol::lol:

i raced my stock sctruck tonight at pegasus. first time ive raced it as fast as i can. Bowties front and rear hooked up soooo good. the motor hasnt been cleaned in a while and it was getting really hot. i bought the spacer pack and gave my front end 2 more thin shims each and it didnt nose dive as bad is it was. rear is still at 30 weight with stock pistons, and the one still leaks out like a siv

i put the stock tires front and rear on when i got there, and the thing was allllll ovvvver the place, no control what so ever. i put the bowties on and i could not break it free if i was taking my normal lines. its a night and day difference or me

hey its Matt on my buddies comp.

I use this on my truck. havent had a single issue with it yet.

rogueelementcomponents.com/scabs.htm

but you shouldnt have a problem with the stock one. You might be running too hot and warping the cover while its cranked down.......wayboarder knows his chit.

im going to be back out there for racing tomorrow. I just finished up a new body that i was in BAD need of. 4.5 hours to complete it....i dont know how the guys who do it all the time handle it......jeez no fun at all. But now my idea is real. I couldnt think of anything so i just started laying down pin stripe. Not bad for my first body that isnt ALL white. lol

Good job on your 4th place finish! not bad for your second race!
Matt

People started crashing and breaking, so I just stayed calmed and mDe sure to take all my normal lines and not do anything stupid. There were even some times I didn't feel right coming of a turn so I would roll the next jump because I didn't want to crash and lose my position!!

Truck was dialed, if I was up against the wall going down the straight I could go through the back sweeper with it held wide open.

I gave it a little more slipper after heat 1, and it was easier to control. But only like 1/4 turn from never slipping

Get the RPM cover if you dont like stock, I lost my cap and run a piece of masking tape over it...

That part looks pretty cool! I've seen it before but I must've forgotten it because I haven't had a B4/T4/SC10 chassis since I sold my FT B4 years ago...

Gonna have to check that out.


Regarding the motor getting hot, you're probably right. I'm running a 5700Kv in my B44 and even with it enclosed, the 5700Kv never got this hot as compared to my 4600Kv that's in my setup now...

I'm gonna try to go down a tooth on my pinion... Seriously though, I need to get off my lazy butt and just turn the timing down on the 4600Kv so this truck will calm down! I set my 5700Kv's timing in my B44 down to "lowest" and that buggy became driveable!

Thanks for the tips guys.


Matt, what body did you get for the SC10? When mine gets too chewed up, I'm planning on getting the "Dare" body from JC... That style is really growing on me... I did see a VW Beetle body yesterday, looked cool but it kinda took away the SC look of having the tires tucked away underneath...

matt has the Dare body. i just bought a stock body because i dont like those lights all over it

Stock looks the best, proline should thicken it up for AE...

Took second in the SC mod class last night. First race of a 5 race series.

SC10 ran great.

congrats!

+1

I was banging my SC10 body against the bench yesterday and notice that it's quite thin lexan.

The rear tail-light section is getting chewed up probably because of the bumper. Been thinking about taking some scissors to it to stop the cracking...

These things should come with a polycarb driver too! That'll be cool...

MY FIRST DRIVE
 

my sc-10 is doing well,indoor first day i had it(used roller)finshed 4th out of 9,only truck running stock tires(paragon)on a wed.nite race.went to the house and throw a setup at the truck,gold springs in the rear and 32.5 fluid,pistons not sure just know the holes were bigger than stock.front went with blue springs,same oil and not sure bout pistons.half oz. in rear with a full oz. in the center of the chassis.vxl system geared 20/87 and stock tires(agian)this time outdoor 8th scale track.ive never had so many people ask about a single car in my life,it was on fire.the only time it got out of shape was landing side ways,even then just give it a second and off she went.floated throw the whoops better than any buggy iv ever owned,turned a damaned with early throttle pick up was awesome.couldnt fly that much cause of the wind,but little air(double single not triple)was just fine.the mod class will be getting bigger at this track cause of the clinc i put on.sportsman buggy laps were like 37 to38 sec.my sc10 39 to 40 really fast truck that could dive under and pull out of most anything on the track(buggys had me at half straight).AWESOME TRUCK.

Stock pistons were #2. I swapped mine out with #1 pistons that I never used from my B44 kit (my B44 uses #2).

I'm going to experiment some more and put 25wt on the rear and 35wt for the front.

I've been thinking about stiffening up the front one knotch... Also, I read a couple pages back that lengthening up the suspension links helps... I think what it does is delay the response during a roll...

Another thing that helps calms things down is to move the wheel base out as long as possible (rear hinge). This will take away the smaller turn radius, but it helps stabilizes the truck (from what I remember on my B4).

Personally, I like running my wheel base as short as possible to get the minimum turn radius... The indoor track I run at has lots of tight turns...

:)