Same thing happened to me twice. I said screw this and went back to the dog bones. although I was told to file a flat spot on the pin so the set screw will hold it down better. I'll try that when I get a chance.

I have never had a problem with CVD's until I put them on this truck.

Like I said just put some shrink tubing around the pin area and it fixes the issue.

...or buy new MIP C-CVD's. They don't use a set screw anymore but rather a screw on retainer ring to secure the cross pin.

I wish i would have known that...i just bought a brand new set 2 weeks ago...the AE ones.

but...i tried shrink tubing on mine....and it just slid right off

can you get a picture of yours with it on?

These things seriously wont stay put?

How bout red loctite after a good cleaning?

When you need to get it loose again for whatever reason you just heat it up with a soldering iron or even a lighter.

If you get some of the first run kits like I and many other guys did, pick up some extra shims that goes INSIDE the planetary diff gear assembly (part number 92829 I think, double check it).


The new kits I hear comes with two shims per side, whereas the original kit came with only one shim...

The shims warp and eventually loses its ability to squeeze the planetary gears together for a good contact. You'll start to hear this click click noise...


I shimmed mine with two shim (three total) per side yesterday at the track when I started to hear the noise. This was my first time out to the track with my SC10, and luckily, there's quite a few knowledgeable people at my track regarding the SC10s (looks towards FN Cuda and BuggyKing )


Depending on where you run this thing, you might want to skip all the B.S. and just get some after-market tires... The stock tires suck. I'm sure the guys at my track heard my SC10 stock tire screech all day yesterday

Heres all the upgrades i have done to my SC10. Works great. I just need to learn how to drive it!

1. Stealth Tranny
2. Ball Bearing Steering
3. Team Losi Threaded Shocks
4. Graphite Front Arms
5. 25 deg castor blocks
6. Blue Thumb Screws for battery mount
7. Aftermarket Gear Cover that allows for adjusting Slipper without removing tire.
8. Stainless Steel screws
9.Blue Aluminum front plate
10. Team Loony Aluminum chassis brace
11. Steel rear toe in block (adds 1 deg on each side)
12. Racer's Edge Rear 1/2 deg hubs (with larger B44 bearings)
13. MIP CVDs

Well I just finished the build...3 hours, 3 sodas, 2 sandwiches, 8 smokes and 100+ swears...my hands hurt too bad to start the body...It came with 1 shim for the gears...

8 smokes in 3 hours wow thats alot, but then again what ever keeps you moving along. Contact AE they will send you some.

my apologies if this has already been covered buut there is alot of stuff to read in this thread.

What is everyones opinion on ball diff vs. stock diff??

my exp. has only been with ball diff.

what are the pros and cons???

QUESTION.. did you guys use the shims from the stock axles..on the cvd axles..

if your talking about on the outside near the roll pin. then yes. i did.

not really sure what your talking about when i took out the stock axles outta the rear hubs...their was a shim inside the hub it fit perfect over the axle..

Thats how I do it...3rd coat of liquid mask is drying...

sorry i was talking about CVD's.