HoBao Hyper 9E thread
#1907
Registered User
iTrader: (21)
The hyper already comes prebuilt unlike the rc8e so you have to build it(I like building)it accelerates faster and smoother because the diff is moved to the back sending power to one side at a time so it eases into the throttle,It's lighter,and best part of all IT CAN'T BE TURNED BACK TO NITRO BECAUSE IT WAS MADE TO EXCEL WITH E-POWER.The rc8e handles nice but breaks too easily,heavier,not as agile or nimble,taller gear ratio's in the diffs make it accelerate slower,and harder to work on.To sum it up buy the hyper 9e and use the new castle 1800kv motor with a mamba monster esc on 4s lipo and prepare to dominate.
#1908
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
now if ghea would make some pistons for the 9 ...nothing wrong with stockers just like to tinker on set-ups
#1909
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
The hyper already comes prebuilt unlike the rc8e so you have to build it(I like building)it accelerates faster and smoother because the diff is moved to the back sending power to one side at a time so it eases into the throttle,It's lighter,and best part of all IT CAN'T BE TURNED BACK TO NITRO BECAUSE IT WAS MADE TO EXCEL WITH E-POWER.The rc8e handles nice but breaks too easily,heavier,not as agile or nimble,taller gear ratio's in the diffs make it accelerate slower,and harder to work on.To sum it up buy the hyper 9e and use the new castle 1800kv motor with a mamba monster esc on 4s lipo and prepare to dominate.
This has nothing to do with acceleration. If Ofna was smart, they would have gone to a 4.3:1 ratio in the 9E and they would have fixed some of the gearing issues.
With the same equipment onboard, my 9E and RC8E weigh the same. My Losi is a tank.
#1911
#1914
Tech Elite
iTrader: (56)
carbon fiber shaft just broke.
I have already tried it and works awesome,Smoother than my 2200kv and get longer runtime by 2-4 minutes determining how you drive.Runs around 143-151 but never climbs above that because i have the car geared 16,40.Here are some pics of the shaft.
Last edited by kman16jr; 06-20-2011 at 11:56 AM.
#1915
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
what gearing issues ?
#1918
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
not trying to me a smartarse but thats a clearance issue not a gearing issue .....car was designed for a 36mm motor not a 42mm ...i also run a tekin 1900 combo 14t pinion is tight but 15t works great dont need all that timing anyway temps 150 12min main
2050 should be fine with stock gearing 14t pinion and timing not cranked all the way up ?
2050 should be fine with stock gearing 14t pinion and timing not cranked all the way up ?
#1919
Well ordered a 1400kv Tekin. So going 6s + 1400kv + MMM for now. Next on the list is a MMP.
Could not stand the wait of 8-10weeks for a motor from Neu.
Does the Elite-RC mount eliminate the issues people are having with fitting spurs and pinons?
Could not stand the wait of 8-10weeks for a motor from Neu.
Does the Elite-RC mount eliminate the issues people are having with fitting spurs and pinons?
#1920
Hey guys I just installed my returned tekin rx8 esc in my buggy and decided to do abit of wire neatness stuff.
What i used was a piece of straight wire, an eletrical eyelet thing (shaped like a circle with an area to crimp wire on to) and heatshrink.
All i did was flare out wide enough the electrical eyelet where you crimp wire into it so you can crimp with pliers the wire rod in it, then i soldered the wire rod to the eyelet so it wont come out and then added heatshrink to the wire rod so nothing shorts. Then all you need to do after is find a location to place the rod with eyelet on it undo the screw and screw the rod to the chassi and bend the rod to what ever shape and etc as desired.
Here are some pics
What i used was a piece of straight wire, an eletrical eyelet thing (shaped like a circle with an area to crimp wire on to) and heatshrink.
All i did was flare out wide enough the electrical eyelet where you crimp wire into it so you can crimp with pliers the wire rod in it, then i soldered the wire rod to the eyelet so it wont come out and then added heatshrink to the wire rod so nothing shorts. Then all you need to do after is find a location to place the rod with eyelet on it undo the screw and screw the rod to the chassi and bend the rod to what ever shape and etc as desired.
Here are some pics
I was just talking to a Pro sponsored racer today and showing him my buggy. I told him my carbon fiber chassis was almost half the weight of the stock aluminum chassis, and also has more flex than the aluminum chassis. His Jaw dropped and he grabbed my buggy from me and said, " Lighter and More Flex". It was awesome to see that kind of response from a pro racer. Unfortunately for the Pro's that have full sponsorships, They can only run the equipment they're sponsores say they can run. At least that's my understanding of how it works. It's what I've been told in the past about being fully sponsored.
I can't believe you broke the custom made carbon fiber shaft. Erik will want to know this broke. you should email or call him as soon as you can. This means Erik will have to design these carbon fiber shafts even stronger. I see it broke where the Stock Aluminum Shaft(donor part)connects to the carbon fiber cylinder. I understand Erik to use Epoxy and a Pin driven through both, binding them together. It's incredible you broke this shaft. I believe snrscion's is still going strong. But snrscion didn't pin his. only JB Weld and a Screw connecting the two parts(Universal to Carbon fiber Cyliner), If I recal the pictures correctly.