rcgod

iTrader: (33)

I'm afraid to try without the fan. Everything was
hot when I pulled it off of the track. Motor was 180 and the battery and wires were pretty warm too. But the esc was working just fine.

portyansky

iTrader: (54)

Doesnt drag brake screw up your jumping making you nose dive?

williamw

iTrader: (5)

I suppose it could, thats a good point. I havn't raced a 1/10 scale electric buggy or truck in some time. Definately would not use with a 4wd 1/8 buggy.

djtroy

I use it with a 4wd 1/8 VE8. I have my drag set at 30%. Yes it can make you nose dive so I dont coast off of jump faces. I use it to my advantage. Most jumps like tabletops and doubles the idea is to land on the backside at the same angle of the landing jump. What I do is hit the jumps and hold the throttle on up the face and about halfway to landing I let off the trigger and try and make it downslope the landing ramp. If Im jumping to flat ground I just throttle hard up the face and blip it in the air and make sure never to fully let off the throttle. Its something you have to get used to but if you nose dive too much all you have to do is gas the trigger and it will stop the nose from falling and stay perfect for a nice landing. Then you can use the downslope, gravity, and a big trigger full of gas to shave time off your laps.

HH

iTrader: (3)

Josh Alton runs a 22t or 23t pinion with a 1700kv on 4s 5000mah.

I run my 1700kv the same way or more often I run a 19/50 with a 5s 4200mah and about -25 throttle expo on my 4pk as I get more runtime.

I also have a CC 1800kv and have only tried a 21/50 on 4s 5000mah and it was plenty fast.

Gearing a 1800kv at 22/50 won't be inefficient, you would need a 2650kv regardless of any gearing to accomplish that.

HH

forwardonly

iTrader: (3)

It is definitely a setting you have to get used to driving and you must get the proper amount dialed in for your driving style. I wasn't paying attention with my B44 off one jump and just about front flipped. Once you get used to it you know how to stay on the throttle a little at the appropriate times. It is a good tool for corner entry. That being said, I don't use it very often. I like a little on my RT5 to keep me from braking too hard on corner entry. In my 4wd, I don't use it at all right now.

losifiend

iTrader: (73)

I have a brand new MMP that I just hooked up to an LRP 2800kv Vector8 sensored motor on 2S in my 4x4 Slash. It's in smart sense mode with the stock settings. I programmed it to my DX3R but get a flashing yellow light as soon as it arms. When I hit the throttle the motor just cogs. If I pull the sensor wire off the motor runs but the yellow light stays flashing no matter what. Can anyone help?

**EDIT** Found this link on RCshortcourse. A flashing yellow light in neutral is normal when not in cheat mode with the latest firmware.
http://www.castlecreations.com/downloads/frh-mamba.html

forwardonly

iTrader: (3)

Got my MMP today! I also purchased the Castle 10amp BEC and got it soldered up to a deans plug, so I am ready to go. Just need some wire to finish the install and a battery. I can run two 2s batts for testing, but I am going to wait to race until my 4s comes in. Can't wait to get the VE8 up and running!

forwardonly

iTrader: (3)

I got some testing in. I am using the Tekin 1900 motor (unsensored until my new longer sensor cable comes in) 20T pinion with the stock spur in my VE8 and two 2s 28C SMC lipos.

My street testing was very promising as the temps didn't get above ambient temps after 8 minutes of light driving and a couple speed runs.

I put in on my very small backyard track tonight and did some easy driving for 4 minutes. Checked the temps and all was great, again at ambient temperatures. Then I let it rip for another 5 minutes, really using much more throttle and brake. Temps climbed much higher in the ESC. It was up to 180 and the motor was at 130. The fan was not on and that worried me a bit. What temps should I be shooting for on the ESC? I do think my pinion slipped out a bit and created some strain which may have raised the temps.

Thanks for your help!

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

My buddy and I ran our ve8s yesterday on a big track and our motors came off at 180-190 and the speed control was 125. That's after 9 minutes running 2050 tekin on 4s. He was geared 19/50 and I was 20/50.

williamw

iTrader: (5)

You might want to put a fan on the motor.

forwardonly

iTrader: (3)

two issues:

1. my esc fan was not working. I ran for 5 minutes and checked temps. I had 169 on the esc and the fan was not on. I nudged a fan blade with a hex driver and it came on and the temps went down quick. I ran for another couple minutes w/o the body and temps were 116. I need to try with the body and make sure the fan is running.

2. I have a CC 10amp BEC wired in and if I remove the red wire on the esc from the plug, the esc does not work. I tried not plugging the BEC in and just the ESC with all wires and it does not turn on. In fact the switch doesn't seem to do anything whether the BEC is in use or not? The BEC is working. The steering always has power, but I don't know why the ESC is not seeming to work correct with the wiring as prescribed. The ESC is working if the red wire is in but stays on and does not shut off if I turn off the switch.

dan-o

iTrader: (105)

sounds like you need to reprogram your esc with the BEC to zero volts, then run your cc bec, This is how we had to set up our airplanes with CC ESC's. Someone will chime in I am sure.

Lazer Guy

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=forwardonly;7628562] I have a CC 10amp BEC wired in and if I remove the red wire on the esc from the plug, the esc does not work. QUOTE]

I have the same setup.
When I plug my battery in I have steering, I then turn the switch on and I have power to the ESC & motor.
You can leave the switch on all the time.

wstuart

iTrader: (117)

me and some buddies found a solution for this esc and glitching in our scrt10s. We run an external hump pack. No more glitching and way more power to the motor