danb1974

If you run in sensored mode

- esc-motor wires must match (ABC-ABC or ABC-123, markings on motor may vary) there is only one right combination, any other will not work

- on some motors you must program the throttle (and brake) curve - via the castle link - to start from like 20%, to avoid shaking on low throttle. Value depends on the motor, choose the lowest value on which motor starts. This is a bug err known feature in mmp firmware.

oldenuff

iTrader: (2)

hi guys i would like to get some advice if i can. i run my mmp in 1/10 on road class racing modified motors, foam tyres with lola bodies we call it 235 outlaw modified tc. up until now i have used my 4.5 t speed passion without timing, but lately another racer has shoehorned a Tekin rx8 esc into his car, reprogrammed it and all of a sudden his car runs higher speeds and cooler temps and we cant keep up, others are also following suit with the tekin but i want to show them what my MMP can do.
lately i have started adjusting the torque limiter as this class has become a straight out heat war and i realize under acceleration is where most current is drawn. the track we race is is outdoor and reasonably large, torque is not as critical as speed but i still spend close to a third of the track at full throttle, the limiter has helped a bit but not enough, I am seriously considering raising FDR slightly and using CHEAT mode to boost top end speed, i havent done this so far because ,.. well just playing safe , but playing safe wont win ,.. i want to win for myself and the MMP, any advice on modified boosting would be greatly appreciated
cheers
oldenuff

Dirtburner2.0

Im looking at pairing a Mamba max pro with a Tekin T8 2050 on 4s in my 8th scale buggy. Can it handle a 1/8 scale motor? I know it says it can handle up to 6s. Will I need a external bec? or capacitor? Ive had a MMP in my 1/10th scale and had bad experiences do to receiver brown outs. Has this been fixed at all? Dont want to spend the money when I could spend an extra 100$ on a RX8 but I like the size of the mmp and of course the price.

Thanks in advance

Hoese37

iTrader: (5)

Hobbywing.

DRTMI

iTrader: (27)

You would need to add a BEC.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

It'll run the ebuggy all day, no problem. The bec question is more of a question of what servo you run. Something with crazy high oz and speed may require an external bec. But it also seems to vary from MMP unit to unit. I have one MMP that the bec seems like it will run anything and never has a problem no matter what servo I use with it, and one that seems to brown out much more easily.

rcus3r

In my case, the brownouts with the MMP were due to the radio (Spektrum). Once I switched I had no problems, using 1258 Savox.

Ran no problem in e-buggy on 4S.

External BEC may be needed in some applications. Bit of a PITA unless you wire it to your power switch. Otherwise, you can turn off the ESC, but not the receiver, and all things plugged into it stay powered up. Alternatively, I had success with just a capacitor. That said, neither solved by Spektrum brownouts issues.

Today, I use HW SCT Pro in my e-buggy. Under $100 and zero issues. No caps, no BEC.

wilsonj1018

iTrader: (4)

I have two fried mmp that beg to differ with being fine running a 1/8th motor....
Josh

bash bros

iTrader: (2)

What kind of setup were you using? I'd think 4s max with something ~2000kv it shouldn't have any problems. I even asked a Castle rep about running it in a 1/8 buggy once and he said it should be ok, just monitor the temps and keep them under 180°

wyd

iTrader: (51)

My guess he is using the Tekin software and using boost to get the extra speed in the straights. You can do the same with the MMP by using the cheat mode. Try gearing your car to start 2 to 3 teeth lower on your gearing. Now go into cheat mode and do 15 degrees of cheat timing and setup the RPM range. Start with the low set at around 4500rpm and then in the High RPM range it will give you 4 choices after you set the low RPM range. Take the bottom one which off my head should be something like 12,000 or higher. This will give you great rip in the infield by gearing down but the boost will take car and give you big rip in the straights. If you motors isn't getting too hot advance the boost to 20 degrees and see how the temps are. For the Low RPM I would try from 4500 up to 5000. On the high you want from 11,300 to up to 20,000. I don't have my Castle Link here to hook up to give the exact low and high rpm ranges but those about are close.

wilsonj1018

iTrader: (4)

2650kv 36x74mm 4 pole leopard geared 15/38 in a slash 4x4 running on buggy tires. 51mph on 3s motor temps after a pack is avg 145ish second esc lasted maybe 3 mins before thermaling and frying. First one didn't make it off my porch. Oddly a sidewinder esc runs this set up fine for hours on end its just not as punchy..
Ordering a hobbywing 150a or a mm2 soon.
Josh

macdude

iTrader: (6)

Where you running in sensored only mode? 1/8 motors especially 4 pole tend to create a lot of noise on the sensor wire and will make the ESC misfire if it is in Sensor only mode. Either sensorless or smart sense in recommended.

prosport

iTrader: (21)

How do I check the output voltage of the Castle 10a BEC? Do I just unplug it from the receiver with radio and car turned on and try to safely check it with a voltmeter on the black and red wires of the receiver connector? Thanks!

Kajman

iTrader: (4)

Using 2s will mmp manage to power heavier servo or it may burn?