You may want to check with Associated. I wasn't sure myself and was wondering the same thing. I think that the holes for the battery tray would have to be drilled tho. Other than that, the diff mount holes And chassis braces should be the same as well as the steering & servo. Is the FT chassis supposed to be better in some way?

Here is my Truggy :batman::batman:

Man, I need to clean that!!!:lol:

Here's my RC8Te with the on-road package installed. And a shot of my RC workbench setup. Lot's of space and plug extensions for the lipo & screw gun chargers, lights, laptop, compressor, and whatever else needs power on this mobile bench.

What size pinion should I be using on the RC8T with the 50 tooth spur and the Castle 2200kv motor? This is for a decent size indoor track (Leisure Hours). Thanks.

I run 50t spur too. I usually go with a 16t (w/ 4s lipo) on our track which is pretty big and it works out pretty good. Seems like I got shorter run times with the 15t but WAY faster acceleration and more torque. This is better for tracks with shorter straights and more quick sections than fast sections if you know what i mean. Seems like the long segments killed the run time with the 15t. The 16t is probably better for bigger tracks with big jumps and longer straight segments. For now i'll stick with the 16t but I'm gonna up the battery power to 5s or 6s to get the torque and acceleration I was getting with the 15t on 4s. But other than that, havent really played with more combinations yet.

13t or 14t that will help alot!!

Any of y'all running the Castle 2200kv motor in the RC8T with the Associated conversion? I installed my motor today and noticed that the heat sink fins slightly hit the chassis. I ended up putting the diff spacer intended for the RC8 on top of the stock RC8T spacer. Now there is plenty of clearance.

Anyone think there will be an issue with this? The only thing I dislike about it is the motor mount has no support below the motor. With the stock shimming the mount "rides" on the chassis.

Yeah the Mamba Monster 2200kv can is too big so if you bolt it down it'll hit the chassis and bind like you said. I used the diff riser and haven't had any problems. The motor mount and is solid. I've tested it on one of the gnarliest tracks ive seen.

Everyone has been shimming the center diff and I haven't heard about any problems yet. As long as your motor is tight it should be fine.

Cool. Thanks for the info guys.

Center diff leaking help
 

Just a quick question. Has anyone have the center diff leak on the RC8Te with the plastic spur gear and ifso what is the fix for it. Also I bought the Lundsford Turnbuckels for my RC8Te and the steering turn buckels are alittle to short and just a bit thinner then the stock one anyone have this problem also and what is the fix for that also?

Thanks in advance for any help given..

Rob

Contact Lunsford, they'll send you new longer turnbuckles and along with an envelope to send back the short ones. No problem. The diff issue happened to me too. I replaced the diff housing twice and that didn't solve the problem. Then I changed the spur gear with a new one (same type, 50T plastic), and it hasn't leak after 5+ heavy runs so I think it has something to do with the spur gear. Not sure what or why. Hope it helps...JB:tire:

My center diff was also leaking, I fixed it by removing the screws and tightening them back down a little at a time making sure they were all evenly done.

Thanks , I call Lunsford to day and they said mail them back and they will send me the right one.The pack that I bought was for the RC8T and not the E. They said the E pack is not out yet. I also tryed a new diff housing and it stilled leaked so I redid the it again using just alittle carb sealer to see if that will help if not i'll try what you said and put a new spur gear on.Thanks again for the tip..
Rob