Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

It is a V4, my version of the V4! I was hoping the same thing. Thanks Bud, I appreciate the kind words.......

Cameron Kellogg

iTrader: (45)

Call it the v5

BillyT.

iTrader: (4)

That thing is rad. You did exactly what I wanted to do. Hard to believe it took someone this long to do it(I have had the car for 3 months and was already looking for a way to do it).

You should set up a kickstarter project and get these things made en masse...

I don't think you would have much problems selling them. I'd cancel my Xb4 if I could buy this for this car.

socal23

iTrader: (112)

Looks great. +1 on the sign me up for ordering one. Lol. I like how the saddle packs are easer to get out like the b44 .

How.much longer is your chassis?

BillyT.

iTrader: (4)

Adding length isn't the key to this... mounting the batteries longitudinally is. So the extra width is really what makes it possible...

socal23

iTrader: (112)

I did dent check for crush rubes yet but I figured out the noise and the binding issue. There was metal shavings from the front driving gear that goes to the gear inside the diff housing. Cleaned it all out and put some black grease on them and made sure it was coated as much as needed. Put it back together and the only noise now is the spur/pinion. Guess the guy I bought it from forgot to put grease on the gears. Just nice that they were still in good shape. I was very surprised and happy on how easy it is to pull the front diff out. About 15 min faster/easer then my losi scte. Thanks for the help everyone.

On a side note. I was thinking of picking up a new spur. I ran a 6min main last night running 87/24 with a 10.5 lrpx12. Small indoor track and got the motor to 165* and the esc about 130*. I'm OK with the esc heat but the motor was a little hot esp when it was only about 70* temp at the facility. Any suggestions on gearing? Might eventually pick up a orion 8.5 but until then I'd really like to get the most out of my motor now. I know the binding and the diff might have not helped temps. But when I went to hit the triple I could use a little more Grunt from the bottom. Thanks in advance.

socal23

iTrader: (112)

Well if you modified the side pods and made your own longitude mount holes you might be able to get them the other way as well. Could probably even get a shorty pack in depending on what application you wanted.

Cameron Kellogg

iTrader: (45)

Great idea for sure. This was more like what I was expecting for the v4. So many times when I was driving my SC410 and the 4w buggy I felt the SC truck was just smoother to drive because of the center diff. So many other factors but it was always easy to go fast in pro4. The buggy always takes me a little more time.

Has anyone tried the new slipper center diff. I was personally never a big fan of it in the SC10 4x4 truck. Might work great with buggy tires and normal 4w power.

BillyT.

iTrader: (4)

People run shorty packs. Not sure what exactly the have to mod but it isn't much from what I remember.

But yeah, you could probably get pretty close to this with the std chassis, mounting the batteries longitudinally, running a wider body, and just drilling some holes for the SC diff mount... No where near as nice as this new chassis, but it may be possible.

But turning the batteries... gives you in inch of space to work with, with the same wheelbase.

BillyT.

iTrader: (4)

IMO, your gearing is spot on. 165 isn't too bad... not great after only 6 minutes, but not terrible either. Maybe play with timing as little bit. But if you only run 6 min at a time, I wouldn't sweat it.

socal23

iTrader: (112)

I had my throttle on my tx at 120 many I'll pull it down to 95 and run it again. I know by the end of the race my motor was getting tired from the heat. I'll come off the tx throttle end point and run it again, if that doesn't help I'll go down a pinion. I like how my esc feels. Everything was spot on but the heat. We have a small straight so the 1 tooth off the pinion won't kill me. Thanks for the reply.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

I would check motor end bell timing first, I think that was what BillyT was referring to. Esc boost and end bell timing will add top end (and higher temps usually), little lower pinion will get you the bottom grunt you are looking for.. I dont usually mess with my Tx end points unless the track gets suddenly wet and/or slippery..It just changes the way the power delivery feels too much, for me anyways.

socal23

iTrader: (112)

I don't think it has timing. I'll check that as well thank you. Did dent even think about it I've been running 1/8 and sc 4x4 I forgot about end bell timing lol

RC10Nick

iTrader: (9)

Did you have to use different drive shafts to accommodate the center diff? It sort of looks like that center diff is the same length as the slipper. Either way, awesome job!

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

+8 I made it longer because I needed to for the center diff


The center diff is longer, the reason for making the chassis longer to use shorter center cvds. Thanks guys.