Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread
Wow Dino, didn't know about the hex BS. Which IS all it is. People should have a right to run whatever they find is better so long as it isn't a means to gain an unfair advantage which in this case Hexes are just a mere mounting system and just because one is more widely used than others, it shouldn't disqualify the rest. Some of us have HUNDREDS of dollars in wheels and tires and no one should make such a decision to render our investment as utter TRASH.
RC NEEDS A NEW GOVERNING BODY. Roar is now the Bernie Ecclestone of RC.
RC NEEDS A NEW GOVERNING BODY. Roar is now the Bernie Ecclestone of RC.
But in 10th scale off-road it is all over the place. Rears have different offsets, front have different offsets. The rules is mainly for the rear at the moment. Even the SCT rims have different offsets. For losi or Associated.
I don't think it would matter if you are not racing under ROAR rules or attending ROAR sanctioned events like nationals.
Unless your local club enforces it.
However when the rule does come into effect, expect the non compliant rims to start disappearing as manufacturers will stop making rims in different offsets and hex sizes.
hello,
i am running a v3 that i picked up used and am having trouble with the set-up for it. looking for a good starting point for hard packed dirt with a dusty layer. need more rear traction and forward bite. my set-up is way off and only got worse. right now the buggy is completely tore down and looking for a good base.
thanks in advance
i am running a v3 that i picked up used and am having trouble with the set-up for it. looking for a good starting point for hard packed dirt with a dusty layer. need more rear traction and forward bite. my set-up is way off and only got worse. right now the buggy is completely tore down and looking for a good base.
thanks in advance
You can try my setup. It works on most tracks as a good starting point.
http://www.sidsraceway.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/DEX410-V4-Dino_Taco2015.pdf
I guess we'll have to agree to disagree in that while setting a standard "MIGHT" be a good thing, 12 is not the best way to do. If a change is being forced, why not go with the superior product vs, what is perceived to be the most popular?
Now, "IF" they are going to force this change, THEY NEED TO PAY ATTENTION TO EVERY LAST LITTLE DETAIL and ensure that manufacturers also change out axle diameters because while some wheels "work" they aren't necessarily a proper fit. I ran a 4.2 and my son an RB5 and the fact that buying Kyosho wheels meant you had to buy AE wheels and then take extra care to ensure they mount up straight because the hole is larger on AE than it is for Kyosho. We now run the PRS1 which has the same size axles as Kyosho so buying wheels specific to that size is a forgone joke.
The best option for minimizing this is buying low profile large flange wheel nuts like the ones JC sells for a whopping $20 and if you're in a mad dash to make it out for a run you can still mount them off kilter a bit, resulting in wobble.
So while many of you think it's the best thing, I am fairly certain few (as is the case with my line of work) have thought this "plan" out all the way through, taking extra care to address every possible element to ensure uniformity across the board. Otherwise it will be as they say on the internet these days… an Epic Fail.
Now, "IF" they are going to force this change, THEY NEED TO PAY ATTENTION TO EVERY LAST LITTLE DETAIL and ensure that manufacturers also change out axle diameters because while some wheels "work" they aren't necessarily a proper fit. I ran a 4.2 and my son an RB5 and the fact that buying Kyosho wheels meant you had to buy AE wheels and then take extra care to ensure they mount up straight because the hole is larger on AE than it is for Kyosho. We now run the PRS1 which has the same size axles as Kyosho so buying wheels specific to that size is a forgone joke.
The best option for minimizing this is buying low profile large flange wheel nuts like the ones JC sells for a whopping $20 and if you're in a mad dash to make it out for a run you can still mount them off kilter a bit, resulting in wobble.
So while many of you think it's the best thing, I am fairly certain few (as is the case with my line of work) have thought this "plan" out all the way through, taking extra care to address every possible element to ensure uniformity across the board. Otherwise it will be as they say on the internet these days… an Epic Fail.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
The issue is not the offset so much as having the exact same size axles so the wheels line up perfectly from brand to brand.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
You can try my setup. It works on most tracks as a good starting point.
http://www.sidsraceway.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/DEX410-V4-Dino_Taco2015.pdf
http://www.sidsraceway.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/DEX410-V4-Dino_Taco2015.pdf
And does anyone know the difference between the blue (S30), purple(S40), and clear(S50) orings?
Last edited by skrichter; 10-15-2015 at 11:35 AM.
Tech Regular
It'll be fine, the chap who came up with the proposal for the rule, is a lot smarter then anyone who is posting on here. I'm sure he & the others behind the rule have thought of everything
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Yeah smarter then some people, maybe. Smarter then most people on this forum, doubtful.
To assume they people behind all this have thought of EVERYTHING would be foolish as there are countless variables to consider, and not all involved with the decision have experience with every single car to know every little thing that needs to be addressed across-the-board.
As for o-rings. I prefer blue as they are the softest but they are more susceptible to damage by dirt (hence I use the boots). They keep my oil and rings good for a whole season, and I just top them up from time to time.
Using the harder ones (stock orange) is like going up 1wt in oil . Purples are good too.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Quick O-ring tip for you guys…
When it comes to O-rings, most people use the wrong stuff to lube them. Dow makes a grease specifically for O-rings that has a component that swells them slightly and other additives to keep them fresh, soft and moist to promote a more absolute and uniform seal.
The only thing is that a tube costs close to $20 but some paintball guys buy it in larger size tubs and then sell in smaller size for about $5-$7 shipped so look around. I use it for my Diff O-rings as well as shock O-rings and I keep them in the grease so when I need them they are ready to go.
When it comes to O-rings, most people use the wrong stuff to lube them. Dow makes a grease specifically for O-rings that has a component that swells them slightly and other additives to keep them fresh, soft and moist to promote a more absolute and uniform seal.
The only thing is that a tube costs close to $20 but some paintball guys buy it in larger size tubs and then sell in smaller size for about $5-$7 shipped so look around. I use it for my Diff O-rings as well as shock O-rings and I keep them in the grease so when I need them they are ready to go.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (14)
Hey all, quick dumb question, are the bearings the same from the V3 to the V4? Getting ready to purchase a bearing kit and want to be sure I'm getting the right thing.
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (25)
Just ran on a track with slicks...car was great. Try running same diff fluid front and rear....you'll be pleasantly surprised 7k/7k is pretty good.
Yeah, the committee is the very same one who approved a certain motor, then disqualified it, and then reinstated it, only to outlaw it right after, which left a whole lot of people with motors they could not run and could not get a refund.
Yeah smarter then some people, maybe. Smarter then most people on this forum, doubtful.
To assume they people behind all this have thought of EVERYTHING would be foolish as there are countless variables to consider, and not all involved with the decision have experience with every single car to know every little thing that needs to be addressed across-the-board.
Yeah smarter then some people, maybe. Smarter then most people on this forum, doubtful.
To assume they people behind all this have thought of EVERYTHING would be foolish as there are countless variables to consider, and not all involved with the decision have experience with every single car to know every little thing that needs to be addressed across-the-board.
Everybody else thinks this is a great thing (because it is). You'll be able to try your buddy's tires, you'll be able to run VTR wheels, you'll be able to buy your wheels off the shelf at your LHS, and you'll be able to take your wheels/tires to whatever car you want without having to worry about fitment. Stop being bitter because your horse lost. It's not the end of the world and things will get better because of it.
Have a new outdoor track and need some help with tires. I am using Enduros on my Desc210 with great results. It is hard pack clay(brick) and dust, very slick.
Try impacts or gridirons.