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Old 08-11-2011, 10:33 PM
  #12481  
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Originally Posted by JayL
Randy: help me out (the red truck at Speedworld few weeks ago)


sc10 4x4
RX8
sc4x 4.5T


at swr, lsr,amain where I have been running 13/62 no timing in esc, comes off 125 every track/time, but not much power anywhere. Ran this with you.

so I added 90 current limit and 10 timing, wow it woke up bottom and top comes off at 160 at swr and amain.

But it is very flat in the middle powerband
Can I smooth that out some and get more in the middle?

also you had mentioned lutz setup when he ran that motor and he was at 8.89 final, desc410R has 2.47 internal right? I am at 12.25 final and would need an 18 pinion to be close (2.57 internal sc10 4x4)

thank you
Yes but this was on a large track, very large.

I've been happy with 40 timing advance in my TD truck. On the Sc10 try 70 current limiter and 40 timing geared with a 14T.

Speedworld has MAD traction so you can get a motor very hot since you're braking so hard there.
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Old 08-11-2011, 10:35 PM
  #12482  
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Originally Posted by M7H
Question for the Tekin RX8 guru's here.

A friend of mine has this ESC, but last year blew a few (non tekin) motors, which couldn't handle what they are used for.
What are they used for then?, well it's put in the Serpent F-180, which is converted to run Electric, on 4S lipo.

Now I have a Hobbywing Xerun 4274 2000kv sensored motor, so we put that in his car but the problem is, that it will not work with the sensor wire attached.
Without the sensor wire, no problem, but with, the RX8 seems to reboot or something and then starts complaining about wrong transmitter/receiver signal...
Recalibrating does not give the solution. If you give the engine some throttle, it tries to rotate, but then stops, and that's the point were the RX8 seems to reboot, or something like that.
We've tried also another sensor wire, didn't matter.

I've heard, but don't know that for sure, that the new HW xerun motors, are 8-pole? if so, can that be the problem?, although it works in sensorless mode.
Yesterday, we couldn't put the car on the track, due to rain, so have no idea about the speed yet....

If i go into the ESC via hotwire, do I have more settings there to play with, and get it to work with the sensor attached?
Sounds like the sensor board is shorted, or the harness. Try any other sensored brushless motor, if the rx8 powers up with that one, your buddies motor is the issue.

Never seen an 8 pole motor but it shouldn't matter assuming the sensors are position correctly,etc.
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Old 08-11-2011, 10:39 PM
  #12483  
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Originally Posted by Donat
As the Truggy class seems to be dying in Poland I'm thinking about buying a 1:8 electric buggy. But before I make a decision I have to know a few things.

1. For those who changed from nitro truggy to electric buggy or run both. Is the electric buggy cheaper to race (excluding the cost of buying 'starting' equipment)?Truggy tires are more expensive is really the only difference.

2. How long should a RX8+T8 last? I know it's a stupid question because everything can happen but do I have to be prepared to buy 1, 3 or 10 combos a season... You know what i mean...
Having read of people who had 2 or 3 ESC's failing in a row I'm a little afraid of going brushless.This is old news. Failures can happen with any electronic device. But Rx8 failure rates are WAY down from prior. Just make sure you get the latest 3 cased units.
Question to Randy: What happens when something goes wrong and ESC/Motor needs to be sent to Tekin. Do I have to send it to USA or you have any dealers in Poland (the list of dealers on Tekin's page is under construction)?Dealers are not allowed to service or warranty any Tekin unit. You could either send it to the US Or Tekin Europe(UK)

3. What are the most common user mistakes causing the ESC or motor fail?Using cheap batteries, gearing incorrectly.

4. I also don't know which motor should I choose. I know that in USA majority uses 1900kV. Here in Poland it seems like higher kV motors are more popular (2050, 2100). We have rather loose tracks with low to medium traction. Will a higher kV motor run cooler? What would you recommend?Use the Kv you can control. The 1900 is the best over all motor which is why it's most popular. The 2050 is a close 2nd.

Sorry for asking such dumb questions but the answers are not so easy to find on such big forum.The only dumb question is the one not asked.

Thank you for your patience
Donat
Answers in Red.
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Old 08-12-2011, 01:24 AM
  #12484  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
Answers in Red.
Thanks a lot!

Are Turnigy hardcase LiPo's considered as cheap batteries? I know they're cheap but are they bad quality?
If so, what other brand would you recommend that won't suck in my whole wallet?
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Old 08-12-2011, 01:43 AM
  #12485  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
Sounds like the sensor board is shorted, or the harness. Try any other sensored brushless motor, if the rx8 powers up with that one, your buddies motor is the issue.

Never seen an 8 pole motor but it shouldn't matter assuming the sensors are position correctly,etc.
Thanks for the answer.
I've been in contact with Hobbywing, it's a "normal" 4-pole motor, don't know where I got the 8-poles from, probably some double vision or something.
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Old 08-12-2011, 01:47 AM
  #12486  
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Originally Posted by Donat
Thanks a lot!

Are Turnigy hardcase LiPo's considered as cheap batteries? I know they're cheap but are they bad quality?
If so, what other brand would you recommend that won't suck in my whole wallet?
I'm running IP's in my cars, but the next Lipo's I will order, when I need them will be the Turnigy's, for that price I just want to try.
But if you are not sure, I think IP's are also affordable.
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Old 08-12-2011, 05:54 AM
  #12487  
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I run the Protek and Turnigy batteries in my SCT. I have never over charged or discharged any of them. Both Protek batteries have puffed up on me. Both of the Turnigy batteries are just like they were when I bought them 8 months ago. They are great batteries IMO....at least the 2 I have are.
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:39 AM
  #12488  
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Melt down!
Attached Thumbnails Tekin RX8 1/8 Scale Brushless ESC Thread-dscn1326.jpg  
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:42 AM
  #12489  
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are you supposed to heat shrink the posts like that?
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:12 AM
  #12490  
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Originally Posted by Asharus
are you supposed to heat shrink the posts like that?
No...

The posts act as part of the heatsink... not quite as big a deal on the RX8 as with the RS/RS Pro... But they still serve the purpose.

Heatshrinking the posts is not necessary, and is detrimental to removing heat.
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:13 AM
  #12491  
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Originally Posted by DavidR
No...

The posts act as part of the heatsink... not quite as big a deal on the RX8 as with the RS/RS Pro... But they still serve the purpose.

Heatshrinking the posts is not necessary, and is detrimental to removing heat.
that's what i thought
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:16 AM
  #12492  
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Originally Posted by Asharus
are you supposed to heat shrink the posts like that?
I didn't design the ESC but why not? the wire is insulated. If any thing if a post fails it wont ground out on another post or fry your battery.
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:24 AM
  #12493  
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it's your esc, it's your call what you do with it
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:25 AM
  #12494  
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Originally Posted by MXBEEBOP
I didn't design the ESC but why not? the wire is insulated. If any thing if a post fails it wont ground out on another post or fry your battery.
what the heck was your set up?

The ESC has to get super hot to get to a point that it will melt the solder that holds the post.

sure the wire is insulated but the wire is supposed to flex and if not insulated, that is trouble as you will short out EVERY run!!!
There is a reason the posts are not insulated from the factory!
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Old 08-12-2011, 09:45 AM
  #12495  
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Originally Posted by bohdi
what the heck was your set up?

The ESC has to get super hot to get to a point that it will melt the solder that holds the post.

sure the wire is insulated but the wire is supposed to flex and if not insulated, that is trouble as you will short out EVERY run!!!
There is a reason the posts are not insulated from the factory!
4S 1900KV. Perhaps its not insulated so you can solder it? I don't recall seeing anywhere in the instructions about not insulating the solder joints. In fact when you do solder the wire to the post it in effect now becomes part of the "heat-sink" So whats the difference in 10 MM of insulation?

Does it look like the ESC arced between the posts? No it blew up inside the case.
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