3LikesTekin RX8 1/8 Scale Brushless ESC Thread
03-30-2010, 03:28 PM
#7246
03-30-2010, 04:28 PM
#7247
I'm running an RX8 in my Ofna Hyper 10SC on 2S with an LRP 7.5 X12 with good results, timing advance @ 30, low motor temp, 135* after a 8min main and no temp prob at all on the speedo. Indoor clay tracks and holds it own with the HV 4.5's, no speedo blow ups though 
Just picked up a Redline 5.5 and would like to know what setting would be best.
Should the timing adv be lowered for the 5.5?
Thanks.
Just picked up a Redline 5.5 and would like to know what setting would be best.
Should the timing adv be lowered for the 5.5?
Thanks.
03-30-2010, 05:05 PM
#7248
Bearing Size
Hello
Can any one confirm the the size of the bearings in a T8 motor?
Front 5x16x5mm
Rear 5X11x5mm
Thanks
Peter
Can any one confirm the the size of the bearings in a T8 motor?
Front 5x16x5mm
Rear 5X11x5mm
Thanks
Peter
03-30-2010, 11:23 PM
#7249
hi can someone tell me
i have a 3.5 turn motor i bought for a touring car just wanting to know if this is ok to run in a 1/8th scale buggy
are all 540 size motors the same does it just come down to the kv,s and turns
or is there 540 motors just for 1/8th scale
thanks
i have a 3.5 turn motor i bought for a touring car just wanting to know if this is ok to run in a 1/8th scale buggy
are all 540 size motors the same does it just come down to the kv,s and turns
or is there 540 motors just for 1/8th scale
thanks
03-31-2010, 06:16 AM
#7250
there are specific 1/8 esc's & motors available. never tried a 1/10 motor in my 1/8 buggy but i imagine if you could mount it you'd be underpowered and most probably burn it out fairly quickly
http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...C-Motor-Combos
http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...C-Motor-Combos
03-31-2010, 03:15 PM
#7251
can someone give me a good explaination of how punch control works on the rx8, i have mine turned down to 40 on my e-revo and well, its still to much...lol
03-31-2010, 03:39 PM
#7252
No, you cannot use a 1/10 540 sized motor in a 1/8 car.
Punch control limits the initial amount of power going to the motor. If you have too much power and you're down to 40 already you might need a different motor? What's it in?
Punch control limits the initial amount of power going to the motor. If you have too much power and you're down to 40 already you might need a different motor? What's it in?
03-31-2010, 04:15 PM
#7253
it's in a e-revo, it's the 1350kv on 6s....does punch control limit power throughout the rpm range or just intial start power. the tracks in my area then to be on the smaller side with few large jumps so I am trying to maximize driveablily....i know...learn to control my finger...lol
03-31-2010, 07:15 PM
#7254
It's only for the inital throttle input, after that it's full on power.
I would maybe drop down to a 5s...or loosen the slipper a bit(don't melt it though! LOL).
I would maybe drop down to a 5s...or loosen the slipper a bit(don't melt it though! LOL).
04-01-2010, 05:57 PM
#7256
Yes it can... For the most part anyway.
It's not quite as adjustable... But it IS Hotwire compatible.
----
On another note... I just finished installing my RX8 system in my buggy... And I learned a little something that might help someone else out.
DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE THE IMPORTANCE OF A VERY GOOD SOLDER JOINT ON THESE CONTROLLERS! IT TAKES A BOATLOAD OF AMPERAGE TO START THESE MOTORS!
Even if your solder joints look good... Sometimes they may not be.
Let me explain...
I took my car for it's maiden voyage yesterday afternoon, and at some points from a dead stop it would act like it was cogging... Sometimes so bad that it wouldn't even move! It would just let out a little squeel from the controller and sit there... The squeel would get louder and higher pitched the harder you pulled the trigger but the car would just sit there. Wiggle the wires and try again and she'd take off just like normal.
I knew immediately what was wrong... I had a cold solder joint somewhere, just had to find it because all my joints looked good... So I took it back to the bench and reflowed EVERYTHING.
Took it back out again this afternoon and it drives OHHH SOOOOO SMOOTH!.... Just what I was waiting to see outta this speed control!
Now... In looking back here's what caused my cold joint...
We stress so hard not to put too much heat into the controller when you're soldering... Well I was trying SO hard to keep the heat out of the controller that I didn't get enough heat to truly get a good connection.
So in closing... If you're having a cogging problem right off the start, and everything else checks out such as motor sensor and such.... Try reflowing your Solder Joints with a bit more heat.
Made a night and day difference in my car.
Makes me wonder how many speed controls have been returned to Tekin for issues that were purely related to soldering...
Just a heads up and another thing to test before thinkin' your controller is bad.
-David
It's not quite as adjustable... But it IS Hotwire compatible.
----
On another note... I just finished installing my RX8 system in my buggy... And I learned a little something that might help someone else out.
DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE THE IMPORTANCE OF A VERY GOOD SOLDER JOINT ON THESE CONTROLLERS! IT TAKES A BOATLOAD OF AMPERAGE TO START THESE MOTORS!
Even if your solder joints look good... Sometimes they may not be.
Let me explain...
I took my car for it's maiden voyage yesterday afternoon, and at some points from a dead stop it would act like it was cogging... Sometimes so bad that it wouldn't even move! It would just let out a little squeel from the controller and sit there... The squeel would get louder and higher pitched the harder you pulled the trigger but the car would just sit there. Wiggle the wires and try again and she'd take off just like normal.
I knew immediately what was wrong... I had a cold solder joint somewhere, just had to find it because all my joints looked good... So I took it back to the bench and reflowed EVERYTHING.
Took it back out again this afternoon and it drives OHHH SOOOOO SMOOTH!.... Just what I was waiting to see outta this speed control!
Now... In looking back here's what caused my cold joint...
We stress so hard not to put too much heat into the controller when you're soldering... Well I was trying SO hard to keep the heat out of the controller that I didn't get enough heat to truly get a good connection.
So in closing... If you're having a cogging problem right off the start, and everything else checks out such as motor sensor and such.... Try reflowing your Solder Joints with a bit more heat.
Made a night and day difference in my car.
Makes me wonder how many speed controls have been returned to Tekin for issues that were purely related to soldering...
Just a heads up and another thing to test before thinkin' your controller is bad.
-David
04-01-2010, 06:30 PM
#7257
Good advice David!! Very true! A good hot iron is also very helpful. Just a short shot of heat is all you need. If you have to hold your iron on there for 15 seconds to heat up the solder then you need to get yourself a new iron with higher wattage.
04-01-2010, 07:13 PM
#7258
What is adjustable. Timing advance? Turbo Boost? Can you tame a motor down on the software, can you turn a motor up on the software. Right now I run rs's in TC, MOD SCT, ST, and 4wd. So I am familiar with the rs software, just not at all with the rx8. I have the 2000kv 4038 system coming for my trug.
04-01-2010, 07:21 PM
#7259
What is adjustable. Timing advance? Turbo Boost? Can you tame a motor down on the software, can you turn a motor up on the software. Right now I run rs's in TC, MOD SCT, ST, and 4wd. So I am familiar with the rs software, just not at all with the rx8. I have the 2000kv 4038 system coming for my trug.
Reverse Strength, Brake Strength, Deadband, Motor Type, Throttle Profile, Timing Advance, and Current Limiter.
There is no Turbo on the RX8... Nor adjustments for the RPM range that Timing is added.
But yes... It's still very easy to tame the system down.