Brushlessboy16

iTrader: (18)

+1

OWTKAST cpt

iTrader: (29)

Right now i just WISH IT WOULD STOP FREAKING RAINING so i can test my system out with different packs.. Grrrrrr..

also as a note. If anyone wants to trade my 1700kv for a 2050 or 1900 (all buggy) let me know.

marine6680

iTrader: (2)

In my thread I mention letting liquid flux air dry a bit making it thick, almost like a past flux but stickier. As long as it is RMA flux, either will work. But in the real world, flux is flux, and will all help. It is just that some are better than others, rosin flux is the best. Water based fluxes are very poisonous and I have never seen it used outside industry, it needs tested regularly to ensure it is not becoming too concentrated from evaporation. Waster soluble and No-clean are easier to clean up, but do not work as well in my experience because they evaporate so fast being alcohol based. RMA works well and will not degrade tips as fast as others.

Yes it must be cleaned off, and people can make good connections without it if using a good iron and solder. Its just that so many people have irons with tips scorched to black that they have issues and flux helps.

Ungar is an old weller brand. That is not the soldering iron you were using in the video, was it? It didn't look like it.

That is one of the advantages of thicker flux, or air dried flux.

The multi-core stuff does have a good bit in it. Is it a large diameter solder? The larger diameter solders also have a lot of flux in them, and that helps a lot. You can get away without extra flux in those cases. But anyone using small diameter solder about the size of 22ga wire, there is not near enough flux in it.

Thats lead solder for ya.

teeforb

iTrader: (94)

Thumps up for the details!

In regards of cleaning the unused flux. will a wet two or wet with denature alcohol work? You mentioned using water or the denature with a toothbrush. but these are liquid sensitive devices (ESC) we have here. I don't want to risk getting water or alcohol in the ESC.

thx

marine6680

iTrader: (2)

Always use alcohol. Pure 100% isopropyl works very well if you can find it. While rubbing alcohol from the drug store has isopropyl in it, it also contains water, so don't use it. (unless you can find 100% there but that is doubtful) Denatured alcohol works very well, it is normal ethanol mixed with isopropyl, methanol, acetone, or ketone. Depending on which is used, it can be a bit harsher on parts, but most RC plastics are chemical resistant. People use the stuff to clean RC cars every day.

Alcohol has the advantage of evaporating quickly and not hurting electronics. The biggest problem water causes to electronics is that water has impurities that stay inside circuits when the water evaporates causing shorts and issues. Another is water causes corrosion in the circuits. It also can take a very long time to dry out fully, it tends to cling in little crevasses and stays for days or weeks. Alcohol does not have any of these issues.

You can also use alcohol to save electronics from water damage.

If water gets in the ESC and it has not let out any magic smoke. (I mean a good bit of water, ESC covered with mud and water, a light splash should be ok. Bashers will be the main people with this issue) Kill the power as quickly as you can and then take apart the ESC case and get rid of as much water as you can. Then dunk the circuit board into Alcohol, or spray it down well with a squirt bottle. Shake it out and let it dry a few minutes, then repeat. This should help drive out the water and prevent issues. If all you got was a little splash of water, and your worried, a light spray of alcohol from a squirt bottle wouldn't hurt, you don't need to take it apart to do this. This also works for any electronics dropped in water, like cellphones. It is not a guarantee but its always worth a shot. It works better than just letting a soaked part air dry on its own. Remember power it off first is the key, don't go spraying down a live circuit.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

No, I used a Hakoo 936 iron with med chisel tip.

marine6680

iTrader: (2)

Thats a good iron, not everyone can afford the $90 cost, but if you can get one it does save you some frustration. In my opinion, with the popularity of electric, its a good idea to just bite the bullet and get a good iron.

TY@TEAMTEKIN

That's pretty much all we use is the Hakko 936 and they work bomb!

marine6680

iTrader: (2)

They are good. The Team Checkpoint is just a re-branded Hakko 936. It is cheaper by $10 and has 2 tips. Plus I like that the decals it comes with to fancy it up does not cover up the temp markings for the dial.

jetmechG550

iTrader: (10)

Watch Fry's if you have one near you. They often have the Hakko on sale for $59 and I have seen it as low as $49. As a matter of fact I paid $49 for mine from there.

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

This is the soldering iron that I use for most all RC stuff:

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pro...FaBC5godJTOBNA

People talk about no more than 6 seconds to make a solder joint. This iron will do most anything (NiMH battery bars, Tekin RX8 solder posts,, etc) in about 1-2 seconds.

The 1000 deg F tip temperature seems overkill, but it makes soldering so much easier and faster. With pre-tinning and paste flux, I could solder battery bars in a second and be able to touch the bar with my finger a few seconds later because so little heat was actually imparted to the surrounding material that the solder joint cooled very quickly.

Here's pics of some joints done with that iron:

oneblackram

iTrader: (62)

harbor freight has a copy of a hakko the plugs are different but the tips are the same as a hakko and cheap like 30 bucks buy a hakko tip 10 bucks and for about 40 bucks you have a copy and works as good as the hakko

ambo

iTrader: (48)

ta_man: Excellent soldering you have there! Could you give us your recipe on what equipment you're using? Thanks in advance...

marine6680

iTrader: (2)

1000* is alot, but for batteries, it may help. The Hakko will get to 900* just do not leave it set to that temp long, like 60 seconds, or it will mess up the tip.

losifiend

iTrader: (73)

I have a small wire brush, looks like a tooth brush but its metal, that I use to clean my tip in between soldering. I dont like to use the wet sponge.

If I'm doing a deans connector I turn on the iron and when it gets hot and the tip turns black, I brush off all teh black stuff and tin the clean tip. I then tin the connector. Brush it off, tin the tip and tin the wire. Brush it off and make the joint. Its simple and makes great use of a $1 harbor freight brush, and $8 40 watt Radio Shack iron.

Another thing I like to do is take the chrome off the tip and expose the copper underneath. It allows the heat to transfer faster so you dont need to leave the iron on the joints so long. Once the tip is hot you can take a jewelers flat file and take off all the chrome.