3LikesTekin RX8 1/8 Scale Brushless ESC Thread
08-12-2012, 12:25 AM
I would bet good money that your problem is the switch.
08-12-2012, 03:15 AM
08-12-2012, 06:00 AM
Tech Initiate
Can the RX8 run a 6 pole motor?
08-12-2012, 06:05 AM
In my RX8's, i use Shoe Goo between the lower board and the upper board... and assemble the entire ESC before it dries.
I believe the connector between the two boards is the fault... one good smack or shock to the case seems to interrupt connection between the two. Since i added Shoe Goo, and use 1/2" foam for mounting the ESC, i havent had any shock related issues.
Just sharing my findings...
I believe the connector between the two boards is the fault... one good smack or shock to the case seems to interrupt connection between the two. Since i added Shoe Goo, and use 1/2" foam for mounting the ESC, i havent had any shock related issues.
Just sharing my findings...
08-12-2012, 07:15 AM
08-12-2012, 07:21 AM
In my RX8's, i use Shoe Goo between the lower board and the upper board... and assemble the entire ESC before it dries.
I believe the connector between the two boards is the fault... one good smack or shock to the case seems to interrupt connection between the two. Since i added Shoe Goo, and use 1/2" foam for mounting the ESC, i havent had any shock related issues.
Just sharing my findings...
I believe the connector between the two boards is the fault... one good smack or shock to the case seems to interrupt connection between the two. Since i added Shoe Goo, and use 1/2" foam for mounting the ESC, i havent had any shock related issues.
Just sharing my findings...
08-12-2012, 08:36 PM
Having an issue with my system. Tekin RX8 and 2000 Truggy motor. When i turn it on i get the 1 2 6 7 lights which show the wrong motor connections. I redid all the solder on them and still got the same lights. It will also chime after i turn the switch off and the chime only stops if i unplug my battery. Anyone have a clue what it could be.
08-13-2012, 08:27 AM
I have been running a 1900kv/RX8 combo in my MBX6 eco since the eco came out. The motor and esc are even older and moved from an 808e. I have never had an issue with them and temps have always been satisfactory. I bought a new 1900kv to replace the old one with because of its age and I also wanted a backup.
I simply removed the old motor and replaced it with the new one. No gearing or profile changes on the esc. Temps previously have always been 180 or less on motor and esc around 100 after a 12 minute main.
First time on the track for 5 minutes the temps were 200 and esc was 160. I pulled it off, checked the drive train for any binding, blown bearing, etc, checked the motor and it seemed to spin easily. Could not find any problem. Let it cool and went back out for another practice run. Same issue with temps.
Next step was to start changing the timing profiles to try to get the temp down. I had been running 20 of timing advance (Profile 2 I think) and 85% current limit with 2.12. I had not changed anything over the last year at least. I had added the newer software to the computer when it came out but had not had any desire to change anything since so had not updated the esc. I updated the esc to 2.23, dropped to 10 timing advance and dropped to 80% current limit. After a 5 minute qualifier and warmup, the motor temp was down to 180 and esc to 130. Next heat took the timing advance all the way off with little change to the motor temp.
After a 10 minute main and 1 minute warmup, the motor came off at 220 and esc at 160. No timing advance, 80% current limit, no drag brake, everything else pretty much stock settings.
The motor felt very similar to the older one. I could not feel any difference in the motors until I started losing top end dropping the timing advance, but that was only slightly noticeable because I was on a small to medium size track.
Only thing I have not done is pull the motor apart and check the bearings and rotor alignment. I will do this tomorrow.
I am at a complete loss as what is wrong. Is there some reason one motor would run completely different then the other? Amp draw is definitely higher because the main drained my batteries farther then they have ever been before.
If everything seems ok with the motor, I am going to change to a larger spur then possibly a smaller pinion if necessary and try it out. I do not want the extra low end because I usually race on loamy tracks and the loss of the top end will be a disadvantage as well.
Does anyone see anything I am missing here?
I simply removed the old motor and replaced it with the new one. No gearing or profile changes on the esc. Temps previously have always been 180 or less on motor and esc around 100 after a 12 minute main.
First time on the track for 5 minutes the temps were 200 and esc was 160. I pulled it off, checked the drive train for any binding, blown bearing, etc, checked the motor and it seemed to spin easily. Could not find any problem. Let it cool and went back out for another practice run. Same issue with temps.
Next step was to start changing the timing profiles to try to get the temp down. I had been running 20 of timing advance (Profile 2 I think) and 85% current limit with 2.12. I had not changed anything over the last year at least. I had added the newer software to the computer when it came out but had not had any desire to change anything since so had not updated the esc. I updated the esc to 2.23, dropped to 10 timing advance and dropped to 80% current limit. After a 5 minute qualifier and warmup, the motor temp was down to 180 and esc to 130. Next heat took the timing advance all the way off with little change to the motor temp.
After a 10 minute main and 1 minute warmup, the motor came off at 220 and esc at 160. No timing advance, 80% current limit, no drag brake, everything else pretty much stock settings.
The motor felt very similar to the older one. I could not feel any difference in the motors until I started losing top end dropping the timing advance, but that was only slightly noticeable because I was on a small to medium size track.
Only thing I have not done is pull the motor apart and check the bearings and rotor alignment. I will do this tomorrow.
I am at a complete loss as what is wrong. Is there some reason one motor would run completely different then the other? Amp draw is definitely higher because the main drained my batteries farther then they have ever been before.
If everything seems ok with the motor, I am going to change to a larger spur then possibly a smaller pinion if necessary and try it out. I do not want the extra low end because I usually race on loamy tracks and the loss of the top end will be a disadvantage as well.
Does anyone see anything I am missing here?
08-13-2012, 08:43 AM
i used to not worry about esc and motors. I would sell them and get new ones when needed again!!!
NEVER again! If i got one that works and runs cool I keep it!!! I have been burned twice this year with replacing mine! Still hoping the new RX8 i just got will be a good one.
But i have not seen where they are the same. always different
sorry that didnt help but maybe it did! LOL
NEVER again! If i got one that works and runs cool I keep it!!! I have been burned twice this year with replacing mine! Still hoping the new RX8 i just got will be a good one.
But i have not seen where they are the same. always different
sorry that didnt help but maybe it did! LOL
08-13-2012, 04:52 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
I have been running a 1900kv/RX8 combo in my MBX6 eco since the eco came out. The motor and esc are even older and moved from an 808e. I have never had an issue with them and temps have always been satisfactory. I bought a new 1900kv to replace the old one with because of its age and I also wanted a backup.
I simply removed the old motor and replaced it with the new one. No gearing or profile changes on the esc. Temps previously have always been 180 or less on motor and esc around 100 after a 12 minute main.
First time on the track for 5 minutes the temps were 200 and esc was 160. I pulled it off, checked the drive train for any binding, blown bearing, etc, checked the motor and it seemed to spin easily. Could not find any problem. Let it cool and went back out for another practice run. Same issue with temps.
Next step was to start changing the timing profiles to try to get the temp down. I had been running 20 of timing advance (Profile 2 I think) and 85% current limit with 2.12. I had not changed anything over the last year at least. I had added the newer software to the computer when it came out but had not had any desire to change anything since so had not updated the esc. I updated the esc to 2.23, dropped to 10 timing advance and dropped to 80% current limit. After a 5 minute qualifier and warmup, the motor temp was down to 180 and esc to 130. Next heat took the timing advance all the way off with little change to the motor temp.
After a 10 minute main and 1 minute warmup, the motor came off at 220 and esc at 160. No timing advance, 80% current limit, no drag brake, everything else pretty much stock settings.
The motor felt very similar to the older one. I could not feel any difference in the motors until I started losing top end dropping the timing advance, but that was only slightly noticeable because I was on a small to medium size track.
Only thing I have not done is pull the motor apart and check the bearings and rotor alignment. I will do this tomorrow.
I am at a complete loss as what is wrong. Is there some reason one motor would run completely different then the other? Amp draw is definitely higher because the main drained my batteries farther then they have ever been before.
If everything seems ok with the motor, I am going to change to a larger spur then possibly a smaller pinion if necessary and try it out. I do not want the extra low end because I usually race on loamy tracks and the loss of the top end will be a disadvantage as well.
Does anyone see anything I am missing here?
I simply removed the old motor and replaced it with the new one. No gearing or profile changes on the esc. Temps previously have always been 180 or less on motor and esc around 100 after a 12 minute main.
First time on the track for 5 minutes the temps were 200 and esc was 160. I pulled it off, checked the drive train for any binding, blown bearing, etc, checked the motor and it seemed to spin easily. Could not find any problem. Let it cool and went back out for another practice run. Same issue with temps.
Next step was to start changing the timing profiles to try to get the temp down. I had been running 20 of timing advance (Profile 2 I think) and 85% current limit with 2.12. I had not changed anything over the last year at least. I had added the newer software to the computer when it came out but had not had any desire to change anything since so had not updated the esc. I updated the esc to 2.23, dropped to 10 timing advance and dropped to 80% current limit. After a 5 minute qualifier and warmup, the motor temp was down to 180 and esc to 130. Next heat took the timing advance all the way off with little change to the motor temp.
After a 10 minute main and 1 minute warmup, the motor came off at 220 and esc at 160. No timing advance, 80% current limit, no drag brake, everything else pretty much stock settings.
The motor felt very similar to the older one. I could not feel any difference in the motors until I started losing top end dropping the timing advance, but that was only slightly noticeable because I was on a small to medium size track.
Only thing I have not done is pull the motor apart and check the bearings and rotor alignment. I will do this tomorrow.
I am at a complete loss as what is wrong. Is there some reason one motor would run completely different then the other? Amp draw is definitely higher because the main drained my batteries farther then they have ever been before.
If everything seems ok with the motor, I am going to change to a larger spur then possibly a smaller pinion if necessary and try it out. I do not want the extra low end because I usually race on loamy tracks and the loss of the top end will be a disadvantage as well.
Does anyone see anything I am missing here?
08-13-2012, 09:01 PM
Hey Bud Man, did you ever resolve the issue? Tonight, my RX8 was running great and a buddy had the hotwire software so we decided to hook mine up and see what the settings were. He noticed my software was 212 and said I should update. We did, and then the next time out on the track, I had a lag when ramping up throttle or bursting to clear a jump. When I would get back in the throttle, it would just die and one time down the straight, it went into brakes just for a blip and we could clearly see it dive.
We tried reverting back to 212 but the problem still remains. I regret touching it, but there's gotta be a reason for it and a solution. It happens with multiple batteries and I have an external BEC. The only thing changed was the software. Otherwise it runs fine, just drops out momentarily or brakes during acceleration.
I had to recalibrate after the initial software update, but not to revert back.
Thoughts???
08-14-2012, 05:47 AM
Whenever changing the firmware, you should always re-calibrate. Give it a try, it may help.
Make sure you set all your endpoints to 100% before re-calibrating.
Make sure you set all your endpoints to 100% before re-calibrating.
08-14-2012, 09:33 AM
If you're having glitch or shut down issues inspect all of the wires or connectors. IT's not always the esc's fault here. Loose bullet connectors, chaffed servo leads, bad servo,etc can cause such issues.
Anytime I hear of shut downs the first ? I ask is what servo? radio system? what else is in the car?
On the "new" motor temp increase. If the only thing that was done was swapping in a new motor for an old one and temps increased by 70 degrees something is wrong. Does the "new" motor spin freely? Does the new motor feel like it has more drag brake?
On 12 67 Rx8 faults. Check your motor ABC wires. If they're good, grab a known good working brushless motor, any motor and wire it up. IF the fault goes away, problem is in the motor. If the fault stays, problem is in the esc.
Sorry about late replies, we're attending the "Super" nationals and don't have the best internet at the track.
Anytime I hear of shut downs the first ? I ask is what servo? radio system? what else is in the car?
On the "new" motor temp increase. If the only thing that was done was swapping in a new motor for an old one and temps increased by 70 degrees something is wrong. Does the "new" motor spin freely? Does the new motor feel like it has more drag brake?
On 12 67 Rx8 faults. Check your motor ABC wires. If they're good, grab a known good working brushless motor, any motor and wire it up. IF the fault goes away, problem is in the motor. If the fault stays, problem is in the esc.
Sorry about late replies, we're attending the "Super" nationals and don't have the best internet at the track.
08-14-2012, 09:53 AM
I took a closer look at what was going on - when I ramp up throttle, my Rx voltage drops and this is causing the ESC to cut off. This happens at multiple points during ramp up and at as little as 20% from the digital readout on my radio. I have an Airtronics MT-4 and the 461 Telemetry Rx. I'm also running the Castle BEC and I've verified it is working correctly. My servo (Savox 1258) doesn't cause the Rx to drop voltage anymore. The ESC only started doing this after the software change.
I set my endpoints at 100% and recalibrated just to recheck and the above still exists. I've swapped out the Rx and problem remains the same. I can't see how I could pull it off of the track after running just fine and then the problem exists after updating software on the bench. This is an odd one.
I've also tried with servo unplugged to eliminate that from the mix.
Other thoughts???
I set my endpoints at 100% and recalibrated just to recheck and the above still exists. I've swapped out the Rx and problem remains the same. I can't see how I could pull it off of the track after running just fine and then the problem exists after updating software on the bench. This is an odd one.
I've also tried with servo unplugged to eliminate that from the mix.
Other thoughts???
Last edited by RC_Tactical; 08-14-2012 at 10:07 AM.
08-15-2012, 09:01 AM
I took a closer look at what was going on - when I ramp up throttle, my Rx voltage drops and this is causing the ESC to cut off. This happens at multiple points during ramp up and at as little as 20% from the digital readout on my radio. I have an Airtronics MT-4 and the 461 Telemetry Rx. I'm also running the Castle BEC and I've verified it is working correctly. My servo (Savox 1258) doesn't cause the Rx to drop voltage anymore. The ESC only started doing this after the software change.
I set my endpoints at 100% and recalibrated just to recheck and the above still exists. I've swapped out the Rx and problem remains the same. I can't see how I could pull it off of the track after running just fine and then the problem exists after updating software on the bench. This is an odd one.
I've also tried with servo unplugged to eliminate that from the mix.
Other thoughts???
I set my endpoints at 100% and recalibrated just to recheck and the above still exists. I've swapped out the Rx and problem remains the same. I can't see how I could pull it off of the track after running just fine and then the problem exists after updating software on the bench. This is an odd one.
I've also tried with servo unplugged to eliminate that from the mix.
Other thoughts???
If you're using an external BEC the Rx8's red wire should be unplugged from it's receiver lead. Is it?