Mr-s413bt

iTrader: (5)

Heya Guys.

I use the kit supplied strap, but i added a thin strip of foam underneath it.

Works well enough for me.

Glenn

mike.stening

simplest solution i found was to get some dense foam or rubber, about 4 or 5mm and stick it to the underside of the battery bar, this cures the problem in 90% of cases, only had the cells come out in seriously hard hits but then i would expect that. only other solution is to try and track down one of the original blue alloy straps that came with the first generation BCS, think it is a team suzuki part though they are rare.

mekong56

I was just wondering if anyone had any tips for my first run with the BCS? I am going to run it for the first time tomorrow on a high bite clay indoor track (100' x 52') which is a pretty technical track w/ alot of 180 degree switchbacks. I have it set up with pretty much box stock set up w/ 30 wt AE oil all around. I am starting with an Orion Revolution 10x2 and losi pink tapers alll around. How tight should I run the diffs (front and rear)? I have heard that if the rear belt is not shimmed properly, it will strip the belt? How do you tell if it is shimmed properly or not? I was also thinking of trying the front one-way. Is this necessary, or does the car have enough steering out of the box? Any tips would be appreciated. I have been running a XXX-4 up until now, but wanted to try something different. This looks like a great wheeler and I can't wait to try it out!

mike.stening

anyon emanaged to get hold of the new BCS parts, slipper, castor blocks and drive shafts, if so what are they like compared to kit items.

cheers

Mr-s413bt

iTrader: (5)

Heya Mike.

I should **should is hobby shop code for probably not** have my slipper clutch this week.

But i am starting to think there is not too much point to using it. Our track is awefully slippery and i don't even think i'd use it there.


Glenn

mike.stening

a slippy track is the best place for it really, stops you spinning up the wheels, would give you more consistent traction and less slide (in theory at least) also saves wear on the rear diff on landings from jumps.

mekong56

I have read on different discussion boards that many people run Associated shocks on the Yokomo MR4-BCS. Most recommend the same sizes as the AE B4 buggy shocks- 1.18 bodies and 1.32 shafts for the rear and .89 bodies and .71 shafts for the front. However, once I installed them on my BCS, they seem to be too short, not allowing nearly as much down travel as the Yokomo kit threaded shocks. The AE shocks are pretty much bottomed out when the arms are just about horizontal. I want to use the AE shocks, because I am more familiar with the pistons/oil/springs. Are these the right sizes to use? Do these size of shocks/shafts work ok even though they give less suspension travel? The Yokomo shocks also seem to react slower than AE shocks. I run on an indoor high bite clay track which is about 100' x 50' and alot of 180 degree switchback turns. Any help would be greatly apprecciated.

sosidge

Re:shocks - the AE shock bottoms are noticeably shorter than the Yokomo ones (about 4mm). This takes away a lot of travel straight away. Personally, I use the Yokomo bottoms.

Second point - the 1.18 bodies are actually shorter than the Yokomo rear bodies too. This takes away travel as well, depending on which shock shaft you use, and how many internal spacers you run. The older B2/B3 shock kits are the same length (1.32 body).

stu541

iTrader: (17)

You can use the ae shocks no problem. the b4 shafts in the rear are too short, I took th 1.32 shaft and used internal spacers to get the right amount of down travel. use your yok shocks for reference. you can also use the yok bottoms or unthread the end to your desired length as well. I am currently running 35 wt in the rear with #1 pistons and green springs. shocks out on twr in on arm. 30 wt in front with #3 piston and blue springs. in on the twr in on the arm. I believe I have 0.90 lim in back and 0 in front setup feels as good as my friends xxx g+.

Mr-s413bt

iTrader: (5)

Heya Guys.

Yeah i had a chance to use my new slipper this past weekend, i also got the new 10 degree blocks aswell. I only installed them this afternoon though.

My car is MUCH quieter with the slipper installed. I am starting to have some set up issues with the car.

What do other people run set up wise? Is anyone using the Yok shocks?

Currently i run

Front
White springs, No.1 pistons, 32.5wt, outside on arm and tower

Rear
Green AE springs, No.1 Pistons, 25wt, Outside arm and tower.


What are others running? This is on a slippery, dry dusty track.


Glenn

mike.stening

on the dirt track here i ran
35wt blue AE springs, yoke shocks No.2 piston front
30wt white yoke or silver AE spring yoke shock No. 1 piston rear,
control tyres losi studs, reds work best, or proline hole shots which would stop the car sliding as much but really dont last long (they worked well in 2wd so would be good to try in 4wd)
ran the car with arms level (jumps are pretty big)

mekong56

Does anyone run the front one way in this car? Is it necessary? It was pretty much a requirement in my xxx-4 to get enough steering. Just wondered what other people who have the car think.

Mr-s413bt

iTrader: (5)

Hey.

I have been running the new Slipper and the lay shaft one way. I haven't any steering probs at all.

Mike.

Yeah our track likes to eat holeshots aswell and in M3 compound they seem to soft. Our track is pretty bumpy and i had control issues when i ran them, like halfway around the sweeper on full throttle they would be expanded and my rim would dig in.

I ended up chipping a rear wheel!!


Glenn

stu541

iTrader: (17)

Our track is bumpy but we keep it blown off. it has med. traction. my setup listed above is very good. I'll list it again.

front- ae #3 pistons with 30 wt oil ae blue springs. run inside on arm and tower. unthread end 1.5 turns for more down travel.

rear- ae #1 pistons with 35 wt oil ae green spring. run inside on
arm and outside on tower. use 0.90 internal spacers with 1.32 shaft for extra down travel.

camber links are middle top on rear tower short on hub
middle top on front as well. I use suzuki 7 deg front blocks with hara 1 deg rear hubs. plastic drives in front steel in back mip al cvd up front universal in rear. haven't had to run my rear one way yet our track is fairly high speed with smooth turns.

as for tires I run m3 bowties, cut down rears to fit front with racers edge firm inserts

403forbidden

iTrader: (11)

Hi. I am thinking of purchasing this buggy. I found it online for around $279 shipped. Do you guys think that is a good price? Thanks