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Old 03-31-2008, 08:44 PM
  #106  
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im to dumb for fdr , what you running and what pinion and spur , ray
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Old 03-31-2008, 09:52 PM
  #107  
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I am running 82 spur/ 26 pinion on a xxxt-cr. FDR= final drive ratio.
Novak recommends 7.5. I am now going to start to lower for more top end
speed.

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Old 04-01-2008, 02:18 PM
  #108  
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most people i know running 13.5 are using 86/29 in truck. according to my figures it would be 78/26 on truck with 17.5 to have the same gearing. just my .02
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Old 04-01-2008, 02:23 PM
  #109  
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I run a 30/76 on mine. (T4) The Losi 76t spur for a XX-4 will fit on the AE vehicles, you must use losi slipper pads also.
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Old 04-01-2008, 03:58 PM
  #110  
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I would have to say when buying a 17.5 to race with, buy the 78 spur too. It will help you in getting your roll out with out buying more pinions.
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Old 04-01-2008, 04:38 PM
  #111  
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Gentlemen- I've been going over this thread (with a now empty bottle of advil by my side) and must say that there is a lot of excellent information being passed along here.

I will say that after attending the Cactus Classic and seeing how the individual motors run it is obvious that the 13.5 is much closer to a 19t equivalent than brushed stock, in fact it might even be faster. The reason that it has taken longer for the offroad crowd to realize this is that we don't play around with gearing near as much as the on-road guys. With the correct gearing (read super high) a 13.5 will blow the doors off of a 27t motor end of story. I've seen it happen and if you're not experiencing the same results you are either geared too low or are far outclassed when it comes to the batteries you are running.
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Old 04-01-2008, 04:38 PM
  #112  
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I have no doubt that a 17.5 can go faster than a brushed stock as well, but it will be difficult to fit large enough gears on the car. If gearing space were not a factor than it would definitely go faster than a 27t every time.

Please, if you are under the impression that 17.5s or 13.5s are slower than previously mentioned start gearing them up, wayyyyyyup. Everyone that has already knows this to be true. You may also need to take a look at your batteries, if they're not relatively new and well taken care of then you will need to update those to achieve the desired performance.

Also, the race results posted on the previous page are invalid as the drivers running in the brushed classes were far better drivers than those in the 13.5 class. If Dakotah had a 13.5 in his truck like he did at Cactus you would have seen a huge discrepency in times.
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Old 04-02-2008, 12:14 AM
  #113  
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I also need to express that most of you are making your decisions based of club level racing. Driver ability HIGHLY distorts your view of whats faster or better. At SRS we run a 10 minute 19 turn/10.5 main. For a while there was a guy TQing and leading the whole race with a 13.5 motor in buggy.

I like what JBRL is doing. Stock class is nothing but 27t brushed. That might make for a small class but, you can be damn sure that it will be competitive.
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Old 04-02-2008, 03:48 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by Joaf
I also need to express that most of you are making your decisions based of club level racing. Driver ability HIGHLY distorts your view of whats faster or better. At SRS we run a 10 minute 19 turn/10.5 main. For a while there was a guy TQing and leading the whole race with a 13.5 motor in buggy.

I like what JBRL is doing. Stock class is nothing but 27t brushed. That might make for a small class but, you can be damn sure that it will be competitive.
So are you saying the guy running the 13.5 was just much better than everyone else running 19t/10.5, and that driver ability at the club level is often more important that what motor is in the vehicle? I don't disagree (depending on the track size/layout).

Talk about driver ability, what about brushed motor tuning ability! In my experience there is often a huge difference between the 27t brushed stock motors various club racers use. So, if competitiveness of the class was the primary goal, wouldn't restricting it to only 13.5 (or another brushless) be even more competitive? That's not really on topic I guess...
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Old 04-25-2008, 10:33 AM
  #115  
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Just wanted to see if there were any updates on this. Has anyone with 17.5 been beating 27Ts?
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Old 04-25-2008, 12:34 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by Jeremy Felles
I have no doubt that a 17.5 can go faster than a brushed stock as well, but it will be difficult to fit large enough gears on the car. If gearing space were not a factor than it would definitely go faster than a 27t every time.

Please, if you are under the impression that 17.5s or 13.5s are slower than previously mentioned start gearing them up, wayyyyyyup. Everyone that has already knows this to be true. You may also need to take a look at your batteries, if they're not relatively new and well taken care of then you will need to update those to achieve the desired performance.

Also, the race results posted on the previous page are invalid as the drivers running in the brushed classes were far better drivers than those in the 13.5 class. If Dakotah had a 13.5 in his truck like he did at Cactus you would have seen a huge discrepency in times.

Sup Jeremy, this is Rusty's friend :P

anyways, i have to agree. After racing at Pegasus with my 13.5 in my B4 geared 34/78 (couldnt go any higher due to physical limits), i always had torque to pull and i had tons of top end as well, i would always fly down the straights and pull on the brushed guys as if i was a mod...was just insane power. I figure a 17.5 geared really high has the torque to push the gears which when high wil produce acceptable top speeds as well...

but ive voiced my problem with this before, the motor plate wont allow anything bigger than 34 for my b4. I cant gear my 17.5 the same as 13.5, it wouldnt work right...

i figured 17.5 in 2wd wont take off until either further milled out motor plates are released and/or Associated (and the other brands) release bigger reduction gears to lower the tranny ratio to allow for better gearing options, you know? I cant really attest to the speed or power of a 17.5 first hand though, but ive heard from other onroad guys that it isnt as fast as brushed. I have a 13.5 in my cyclone and it seems really competitive with brushed stock there, but it was just outright powerful in 2wd stock.

Anyways, some video footage of 17.5 vs. 27t at a track would be cool.


See of HB can hook you up with a few D2s and 17.5 systems to play around with at pegasus to see how that feels lol. j/k
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Old 04-26-2008, 07:22 PM
  #117  
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Haven't run the 17.5 myself yet. But have heard a friend say he ran 78/33 in a T4.

If space is a consideration for gearing, couldn't a B3/T3 slipper setup (plates & pad) be placed on a T4 for smaller spur use?
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Old 04-27-2008, 03:54 PM
  #118  
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Well guys Iam at a loss they are starting a 17.5 class at my track but i can't figure how we are going to gear these things because iam at a 78-29 with my RB5 now with a 13.5 I have enough room to put on a 31 but the motor guard won't let the motor back any farther than a very tight 30 with lot's of pressure on the motor guard any ideas how to moke thes things get close to a 6.0 FDR?
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Old 04-27-2008, 06:59 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by LC
Well guys Iam at a loss they are starting a 17.5 class at my track but i can't figure how we are going to gear these things because iam at a 78-29 with my RB5 now with a 13.5 I have enough room to put on a 31 but the motor guard won't let the motor back any farther than a very tight 30 with lot's of pressure on the motor guard any ideas how to moke thes things get close to a 6.0 FDR?
interesting I ran my 17.5 in my RB5 this weekend and was geared 78/31 with enough room to go 1 maybe 2 teeth more on the pinion. You could always slot out the motor screw holes with a dremel...
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Old 04-27-2008, 07:50 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by LC
Well guys Iam at a loss they are starting a 17.5 class at my track but i can't figure how we are going to gear these things because iam at a 78-29 with my RB5 now with a 13.5 I have enough room to put on a 31 but the motor guard won't let the motor back any farther than a very tight 30 with lot's of pressure on the motor guard any ideas how to moke thes things get close to a 6.0 FDR?
You could try a losi 76 Spur Gear. You will need to also get the Losi Slipper pads. I know this works with the B44 and the B4 but I'm not sure on the RB5.
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