New ACADEMY 1/10 scale 2WD BUGGY
08-20-2010, 03:24 PM
#3631
Thanks for covering that Cain; I just remembered that I said I would post that a few days back...been moving and totally spaced it.
@ tony: As far as gearing and motor temps go: before you mess with the gearing anymore you should look at switching to sensored only mode and adding boost in the esc if you haven't already done so. ESC timing makes a TON of difference. IMO a 10.5 feels kind of flat in dual mode anyway; that 10.5 will be a monster in a 2wd buggy with the right timing setup in sensored only. Also, how many lights were flashing on the esc after your test runs; running a severely undergeared car will result in a very hot speed control. My guess is that you are just on the low end of correct gearing. Did you say it was 23 on an 80t spur?
@ tony: As far as gearing and motor temps go: before you mess with the gearing anymore you should look at switching to sensored only mode and adding boost in the esc if you haven't already done so. ESC timing makes a TON of difference. IMO a 10.5 feels kind of flat in dual mode anyway; that 10.5 will be a monster in a 2wd buggy with the right timing setup in sensored only. Also, how many lights were flashing on the esc after your test runs; running a severely undergeared car will result in a very hot speed control. My guess is that you are just on the low end of correct gearing. Did you say it was 23 on an 80t spur?
08-20-2010, 07:54 PM
#3632
Well, from what I have gathered, sensored only mode starts out with 30 degrees more timing than dual mode. Aside from that, in sensored only mode the sensor's in the motor can be utilized to add timing while the motor is in operation. Basically you can get extra timing where you need it; this can really bring the motor to life. There are two options at this point:
Option 1-leave the timing alone and bump to a 25 or 26 tooth pinion
Option 2-leave the gearing alone, switch to sensored only mode, and add 30 timing boost with a start rpm of roughly 5000 and an end rpm of 18000. If it runs cool with this and you feel the gearing is still off, feel free to bump up on the pinion to complete the setup. When all is said and done, the car should be a handful
.
I like option 2 because it's free if you have the hotwire
.
Option 1-leave the timing alone and bump to a 25 or 26 tooth pinion
Option 2-leave the gearing alone, switch to sensored only mode, and add 30 timing boost with a start rpm of roughly 5000 and an end rpm of 18000. If it runs cool with this and you feel the gearing is still off, feel free to bump up on the pinion to complete the setup. When all is said and done, the car should be a handful
.I like option 2 because it's free if you have the hotwire
.
08-21-2010, 03:46 PM
#3633
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: anywhere I can race 2wd dirt,and 1/12 onroad in MI.
Posts: 3,891
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Parts lot posted in the swap and sell
Details there.
Details there.
08-21-2010, 05:34 PM
#3634
Well, from what I have gathered, sensored only mode starts out with 30 degrees more timing than dual mode. Aside from that, in sensored only mode the sensor's in the motor can be utilized to add timing while the motor is in operation. Basically you can get extra timing where you need it; this can really bring the motor to life. There are two options at this point:
Option 1-leave the timing alone and bump to a 25 or 26 tooth pinion
Option 2-leave the gearing alone, switch to sensored only mode, and add 30 timing boost with a start rpm of roughly 5000 and an end rpm of 18000. If it runs cool with this and you feel the gearing is still off, feel free to bump up on the pinion to complete the setup. When all is said and done, the car should be a handful.
I like option 2 because it's free if you have the hotwire.
Option 1-leave the timing alone and bump to a 25 or 26 tooth pinion
Option 2-leave the gearing alone, switch to sensored only mode, and add 30 timing boost with a start rpm of roughly 5000 and an end rpm of 18000. If it runs cool with this and you feel the gearing is still off, feel free to bump up on the pinion to complete the setup. When all is said and done, the car should be a handful
.I like option 2 because it's free if you have the hotwire
.Im in the market for a 2wd and this might be on my list.
09-09-2010, 03:13 AM
#3635
Hi GV2 drivers,
I am thinking of buying a GV2 pro from A-main and i would like to know what should i buy with the kit to get it really dialled.
Also, what colour springs come with the kit and do i need to change them ?
Thanks in advance.
I am thinking of buying a GV2 pro from A-main and i would like to know what should i buy with the kit to get it really dialled.
Also, what colour springs come with the kit and do i need to change them ?
Thanks in advance.
09-09-2010, 04:40 AM
#3636
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: anywhere I can race 2wd dirt,and 1/12 onroad in MI.
Posts: 3,891
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Roman,
The stock springs are white.They do work fine in most circumstances.As for what spares to pick up, just like any other buggy, keep F+R arms,F C-hubs,rear carriers,and maybe a steering rack set in your pit box and you will be fine.
The stock springs are white.They do work fine in most circumstances.As for what spares to pick up, just like any other buggy, keep F+R arms,F C-hubs,rear carriers,and maybe a steering rack set in your pit box and you will be fine.
09-09-2010, 06:47 AM
#3637
You can do the following mods that work well:
- Long screw mod front and rear
- Use better diff balls
- Use AE diff rings (I use these and like them a lot)
If you need more room for your ESC, try the Kyosho RB5 styled bodies. they work well.
for personal preference, go through the manual and see what screws can use the 2.5mm cap heads, and order those. Academy likes to use all the same type, and in some areas it easier to use 2.5mm cap heads than the stock 2mm.
- Long screw mod front and rear
- Use better diff balls
- Use AE diff rings (I use these and like them a lot)
If you need more room for your ESC, try the Kyosho RB5 styled bodies. they work well.
for personal preference, go through the manual and see what screws can use the 2.5mm cap heads, and order those. Academy likes to use all the same type, and in some areas it easier to use 2.5mm cap heads than the stock 2mm.
09-09-2010, 07:26 AM
#3638
The car is pretty durable as 2wd buggies go right out of the box. In addition to what has been listed I would also suggest upgrading to titanium ballstuds as the stock ones tend to break. Diggity Designs also offers some really trick carbon fiber parts such as shock towers, battery bar, steering rack and motor plate. There are detailed setups in this thread from several drivers that work well on a variety of track conditions. Good luck and have fun!
09-09-2010, 08:07 AM
#3639
The car is pretty durable as 2wd buggies go right out of the box. In addition to what has been listed I would also suggest upgrading to titanium ballstuds as the stock ones tend to break. Diggity Designs also offers some really trick carbon fiber parts such as shock towers, battery bar, steering rack and motor plate. There are detailed setups in this thread from several drivers that work well on a variety of track conditions. Good luck and have fun!
09-09-2010, 09:00 AM
#3640
09-09-2010, 09:02 AM
#3641
Sounds like you had problems with durability in the Cougar......maybe you should have stayed with a GV2
09-09-2010, 09:06 AM
#3642
and there is Joel...how you doing man? Good racing going on in the midwest?
