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Old 10-28-2007, 10:19 AM
  #2401  
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Originally Posted by Sohlman113
Can anyone tell me who makes good ball studs and cups that are metric. The stock Kyosho ones are bending in the rear probably because of the length of the B4 Ti turnbuckles I am using. However the B4 turnbuckles are the best and I dont want to change them. All tips would be great.

Thanks,
Jon
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People have mentioned Xray ball cups work. AE sells longer tie rods if you need them. Check out this link for the part numbers of the longer tie rods
http://www.rc10.com/misc/database/db_ftparts.htm

You can try other ball cups but if the tie rod is too short of the link position you have all plastic ball cups will bend. The Kyosho ball cups have been outstanding for durability and fit. These are some of the best ball cups I have ever used.
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Old 10-28-2007, 12:35 PM
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yeah, the kyosho cups are amazing. Just like the diff, I am caring less and less about worrying how they're holding up....like casper said, get the longer links if you need them and you can thread deeper into the cup for more strength...OR just make sure you're using the LONG ball cups that Kyosho has. In the package of ball cups, they have short med and long ones. I bought a few packages to swap out my whole car with long cups.
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Old 10-28-2007, 01:53 PM
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I had that issue with the middle arm conversion, I had some lunsford's from a MF2 kit laying around, so I used the shortest one in the kit and both ends almost fully thread on, there is enough thread to adjust camber within range and it's not going to bend.
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Old 10-28-2007, 09:17 PM
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3Racing has a titanium screw kit of the ZX5 that I am seriously tempted to purchase for my RB5...I have stainless now, but real Ti is amazing PLUS....I can have all the screws anodized
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Old 10-28-2007, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mafiaracers
3Racing has a titanium screw kit of the ZX5 that I am seriously tempted to purchase for my RB5...I have stainless now, but real Ti is amazing PLUS....I can have all the screws anodized
Check out www.speedtechrc.com, they have Ti screw kits specifically for the RB5.
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Old 10-28-2007, 09:58 PM
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If you want to spend the money ti screws are pretty cool and will save you wait. I do not recommend SS screws for any hi stress places. They are soft and will bend or break much easier then the kit black oxide screws. They look good but performance counts most!
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Old 10-28-2007, 10:44 PM
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I'm lovin my RB5 & happy that Kyosho finally shipped some bodies. Has anyone got a line on the rear hub carriers for these beauties? For some reason at our track we seem to be going through them like water, but we can't get any replacements from Kyosho. At least that's what the store tells us is that they are on backorder. I looked on AMain Hobbies & they were on backorder as well. If someone has 4-6 pair of them or knows where I might get these from please send me a PM. Thanks a bunch!

For now I'm rockin with my B4/T4.
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Old 10-28-2007, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper
If you want to spend the money ti screws are pretty cool and will save you wait. I do not recommend SS screws for any hi stress places. They are soft and will bend or break much easier then the kit black oxide screws. They look good but performance counts most!
I would reccomend the Lunsford screws, they are a little pricey, but are of the best quality.
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Old 10-28-2007, 10:56 PM
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yeah lunsford are expensive....I had a full set for my Losi's and they were baller but $80+ for a kit... dunno yet
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Old 10-29-2007, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by encore75
Hey guys...I'm looking for an "in-a-pinch" solution...The slipper access cap on my RB5 gear cover came off and my LHS doesn't have the gear cover in stock. Does anyone know if the cap from a B4 or XXX-CR cover will fit in the RB5 cover?
BTW...I picked up a package of the XXX-CR Gear Cover Plugs (LOSA3043) at Pegasus today to try on the RB5 gear cover and found that they work great. Since they're rubber as opposed to the stock plastic, they snap in, stay more snug because they can flex a bit, and they look like they might not pop out as easily as the more rigid plastic plug.

Also, since the stock cover plug is only available with the whole new $4 gear cover, this is a cheaper solution, since you get a pack of 4 of the Losi plugs for $1.50. (Yes, I know covering it with some electrical tape is probably cheaper, but that solution definitely looks a lot more ghetto. )

Last edited by encore75; 10-29-2007 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 08:27 AM
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Anyone have the part number for the carbide diff balls and thrust balls or a replacement for the stock balls.I keep hearing replace the stock stuff for a longer lasting/better performing diff.Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-29-2007, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by racenut123
Anyone have the part number for the carbide diff balls and thrust balls or a replacement for the stock balls.I keep hearing replace the stock stuff for a longer lasting/better performing diff.Any help is greatly appreciated.
Actually if you set up the diff right they last quite long i have been running my diff for about 8-10 hours a week for 2 months and now its time for a rebuild.
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Old 10-29-2007, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by racenut123
Anyone have the part number for the carbide diff balls and thrust balls or a replacement for the stock balls.I keep hearing replace the stock stuff for a longer lasting/better performing diff.Any help is greatly appreciated.
You can use AE carbide diff balls...they're the same size, work great and WAY cheaper.
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Old 10-29-2007, 08:44 AM
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1/8 or a different size? Any idea on the thrust bearing?
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Old 10-29-2007, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by racenut123
1/8 or a different size? Any idea on the thrust bearing?
They're 5/64 (2mm). No clue on the thrusts bearings,,,
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