Losi Off-road!!!
05-14-2002, 07:45 PM
#286
I noticed the XXX parts list show the 5005 shaft (in the picture) which is the same as the XXT. This number is for a .9" shaft. But in the list of part numbers they list the 5017 which is a 1" shaft and the titanium nitride shaft is listed as A-5064 1.0" Shaft.
I have nitride shafts on my XXXT and XXXS and they are very nice and smooth.
I have nitride shafts on my XXXT and XXXS and they are very nice and smooth.
05-14-2002, 08:20 PM
#287
Paul
You can use the .9 shafts in a pinch. Just unthread the shock end 2 turns and you end up with close to the same length shock. The car should have 1.0 shafts in it. I also run 1.0 shafts in the front of truck just for more tuning options.
The Nitride shafts are very nice. They wear much better and the shocks are much smoother (providing you keep your shocks clean). If you don't keep shocks clean with fresh oil in them, the Nitride shafts will wear better than the stock shafts but will still wear out. The Nitride shafts in my car right now are about a year and a half old and show no signs of wear but the shock oil is changed at least every race weekend, usually more than once a weekend.
Shameless plug - We have a shock tech article on the website with some tips for building Losi shocks.
You can use the .9 shafts in a pinch. Just unthread the shock end 2 turns and you end up with close to the same length shock. The car should have 1.0 shafts in it. I also run 1.0 shafts in the front of truck just for more tuning options.
The Nitride shafts are very nice. They wear much better and the shocks are much smoother (providing you keep your shocks clean). If you don't keep shocks clean with fresh oil in them, the Nitride shafts will wear better than the stock shafts but will still wear out. The Nitride shafts in my car right now are about a year and a half old and show no signs of wear but the shock oil is changed at least every race weekend, usually more than once a weekend.
Shameless plug - We have a shock tech article on the website with some tips for building Losi shocks.
05-15-2002, 06:45 AM
#288
Tech Adept
I've noticed that my shocks seem to stick if I leave the car for a week or two without touching it. If I move them the stiction breaks and the shocks will be ok for another couple of weeks. Is this normal?
05-15-2002, 07:00 AM
#289
DW - the stiction is from the outer seal drying and not being lubricted. This is normal for a shock that sets for a while. The outside seal tends to dry and stick to the shaft. After pumping the shock, they should be OK. Below is something to check for though.
How old are the seals in the shocks? If they have not been replaced in a while it might be time. The silicone o-rings used for shock seals tend to absorb the silicone shock oil over time and swell the seals. The shock shaft should have a very thin film of oil on it when you move it in and out of the body. If the seals are old and swell, they seal too good and wipe that film off of the shaft. This causes extra drag on the shaft as it slides through the cartridge. Believe it or not, for the shocks to work at their smoothest, the seals should seep a little. The shock shaft should have a very thin film of oil on it when you move it in and out of the body. If the seals are old and swell, they seal too good and wipe that film off of the shaft and cause it to drag in the cartridge.
How old are the seals in the shocks? If they have not been replaced in a while it might be time. The silicone o-rings used for shock seals tend to absorb the silicone shock oil over time and swell the seals. The shock shaft should have a very thin film of oil on it when you move it in and out of the body. If the seals are old and swell, they seal too good and wipe that film off of the shaft. This causes extra drag on the shaft as it slides through the cartridge. Believe it or not, for the shocks to work at their smoothest, the seals should seep a little. The shock shaft should have a very thin film of oil on it when you move it in and out of the body. If the seals are old and swell, they seal too good and wipe that film off of the shaft and cause it to drag in the cartridge.
Last edited by SkipGear; 05-15-2002 at 07:02 AM.
05-15-2002, 09:30 AM
#290
Tech Adept
Thanks for the reply.
05-19-2002, 09:45 PM
#292
what did they use to build a xxx-4? did they form new parts? xx-4 arms/cvd's? shock towers, hubs? thanks
05-19-2002, 10:10 PM
#293
It is hard to say. The cars have been through a few different versions. Most use XX4 spindles, hubs and rear arms. Other than that, some parts are XXX-S, all of the remaining parts are custom made.
05-20-2002, 08:51 AM
#294
SKip- what would switching from universals front and back to cvds front and back do for the xx4? thanks
05-20-2002, 09:00 AM
#295
The stock bones tend to help the car resist roll on power. They will make the car square up quicker.
CVD's allow the car to roll more and will help traction on low bite and rough surfaces. On high bite tracks the car tends to feel a bit more sluggish with CVD's
CVD's allow the car to roll more and will help traction on low bite and rough surfaces. On high bite tracks the car tends to feel a bit more sluggish with CVD's
05-20-2002, 04:31 PM
#296
Thanks
05-21-2002, 08:37 PM
#297
Hey what would be the performance difference for running the stock losi firm foams all around insead of trinity bomb 1 grays? i run on a flat harpacked lower traction layout. Thanks again.
Oh yeah you have mail Skip
Oh yeah you have mail Skip
05-24-2002, 09:26 PM
#298
Tech Initiate
Skip Gear
Thank you for the reply, I would have posted earier but I had computer problems keeping me off-line.
I ended up getting 1.0 nitride shafts and .6nitride for the front.
One more week and I get to hit dirt!!
Thank you for the reply, I would have posted earier but I had computer problems keeping me off-line.
I ended up getting 1.0 nitride shafts and .6nitride for the front.
One more week and I get to hit dirt!!
06-16-2002, 08:14 PM
#299
Anyone know how high the Trinity rear blocks for the XXX are? I can't get any parts at the moment, so I may try to make some.
Thanks,
Speedo
Thanks,
Speedo
06-17-2002, 07:13 AM
#300
Rear blocks??????
Are you talking about the rear pivot block. If so the 2 deg block is a direct copy of the stock block. The 0 degree block is the same as if you had a stock block with the shims under it.
If you are talking about rear hubs. They are designed just like my camber mod. 2 washers under a ball stud makes the ball end up in the same place as on the stock hub. (or at least they are suposed to, the trinity hubs are off by about .020")
I don't know what other rear blocks you could be talking about.
Are you talking about the rear pivot block. If so the 2 deg block is a direct copy of the stock block. The 0 degree block is the same as if you had a stock block with the shims under it.
If you are talking about rear hubs. They are designed just like my camber mod. 2 washers under a ball stud makes the ball end up in the same place as on the stock hub. (or at least they are suposed to, the trinity hubs are off by about .020")
I don't know what other rear blocks you could be talking about.