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Old 05-14-2002, 08:45 PM   #286
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I noticed the XXX parts list show the 5005 shaft (in the picture) which is the same as the XXT. This number is for a .9" shaft. But in the list of part numbers they list the 5017 which is a 1" shaft and the titanium nitride shaft is listed as A-5064 1.0" Shaft.

I have nitride shafts on my XXXT and XXXS and they are very nice and smooth.
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Old 05-14-2002, 09:20 PM   #287
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Paul

You can use the .9 shafts in a pinch. Just unthread the shock end 2 turns and you end up with close to the same length shock. The car should have 1.0 shafts in it. I also run 1.0 shafts in the front of truck just for more tuning options.

The Nitride shafts are very nice. They wear much better and the shocks are much smoother (providing you keep your shocks clean). If you don't keep shocks clean with fresh oil in them, the Nitride shafts will wear better than the stock shafts but will still wear out. The Nitride shafts in my car right now are about a year and a half old and show no signs of wear but the shock oil is changed at least every race weekend, usually more than once a weekend.

Shameless plug - We have a shock tech article on the website with some tips for building Losi shocks.
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Old 05-15-2002, 07:45 AM   #288
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I've noticed that my shocks seem to stick if I leave the car for a week or two without touching it. If I move them the stiction breaks and the shocks will be ok for another couple of weeks. Is this normal?
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Old 05-15-2002, 08:00 AM   #289
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DW - the stiction is from the outer seal drying and not being lubricted. This is normal for a shock that sets for a while. The outside seal tends to dry and stick to the shaft. After pumping the shock, they should be OK. Below is something to check for though.


How old are the seals in the shocks? If they have not been replaced in a while it might be time. The silicone o-rings used for shock seals tend to absorb the silicone shock oil over time and swell the seals. The shock shaft should have a very thin film of oil on it when you move it in and out of the body. If the seals are old and swell, they seal too good and wipe that film off of the shaft. This causes extra drag on the shaft as it slides through the cartridge. Believe it or not, for the shocks to work at their smoothest, the seals should seep a little. The shock shaft should have a very thin film of oil on it when you move it in and out of the body. If the seals are old and swell, they seal too good and wipe that film off of the shaft and cause it to drag in the cartridge.
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Old 05-15-2002, 10:30 AM   #290
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Thanks for the reply.
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Old 05-16-2002, 09:22 AM   #291
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If any of you have a xx-4, could you measure the distance from outer hinge pin to outer hinge pin on the front and rear for me?

Thanks
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Old 05-19-2002, 10:45 PM   #292
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what did they use to build a xxx-4? did they form new parts? xx-4 arms/cvd's? shock towers, hubs? thanks
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Old 05-19-2002, 11:10 PM   #293
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It is hard to say. The cars have been through a few different versions. Most use XX4 spindles, hubs and rear arms. Other than that, some parts are XXX-S, all of the remaining parts are custom made.
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Old 05-20-2002, 09:51 AM   #294
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SKip- what would switching from universals front and back to cvds front and back do for the xx4? thanks
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Old 05-20-2002, 10:00 AM   #295
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The stock bones tend to help the car resist roll on power. They will make the car square up quicker.

CVD's allow the car to roll more and will help traction on low bite and rough surfaces. On high bite tracks the car tends to feel a bit more sluggish with CVD's
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Old 05-20-2002, 05:31 PM   #296
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Thanks
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Old 05-21-2002, 09:37 PM   #297
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Hey what would be the performance difference for running the stock losi firm foams all around insead of trinity bomb 1 grays? i run on a flat harpacked lower traction layout. Thanks again.

Oh yeah you have mail Skip
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Old 05-24-2002, 10:26 PM   #298
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Skip Gear

Thank you for the reply, I would have posted earier but I had computer problems keeping me off-line.

I ended up getting 1.0 nitride shafts and .6nitride for the front.

One more week and I get to hit dirt!!
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Old 06-16-2002, 09:14 PM   #299
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Anyone know how high the Trinity rear blocks for the XXX are? I can't get any parts at the moment, so I may try to make some.

Thanks,
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Old 06-17-2002, 08:13 AM   #300
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Rear blocks??????

Are you talking about the rear pivot block. If so the 2 deg block is a direct copy of the stock block. The 0 degree block is the same as if you had a stock block with the shims under it.

If you are talking about rear hubs. They are designed just like my camber mod. 2 washers under a ball stud makes the ball end up in the same place as on the stock hub. (or at least they are suposed to, the trinity hubs are off by about .020")

I don't know what other rear blocks you could be talking about.
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