Quinton

iTrader: (2)

I guess I read it that putting the stock photon in, say a 19t chameleon can and it was faster than the chameleon. Anywho...

Ran my cheap ride today on a friends backyard track - most of them are getting the SC trucks. I was surprised I didn't break anything or get the servo out of whack. Now I'd like to get some good shocks and a battery that doesn't suck.

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

IF you have a old motor (like a chamelaon) that the armature is bad you can put the Photon armature in it and it will be much faster than a stock Photon.

Battery <<< Only get Lipo when you have a lipo ready esc OR a lipo alarm, so you won't kill the lipo by low cell voltage.

IF you didn't know, if a lipo volts gets very far below 3 volts per cell they won't charge.

Quinton

iTrader: (2)

i have the ezrun setup so it's ready for lipo

Quinton

iTrader: (2)

If this link doesn't take you directly... there are pics of the track I ran on today on pg 159. Good time.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/kansas-m...ml#post6550594

Firehawk989

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, its been a while!

So I have an LRP V10 Spec 19T motor in the BX now, runs pretty good! Only parts broken so far in the almost 1 year of ownership are front shock tower, motor guard, and front hub carrier. I'm quite happy with it now until I can afford to go brushless and get a better radio. Only thing that's driving me nuts is I keep losing pins out of the universal drive joints. Are there any CVD's out there that fit the Evader BX?

Tower hobbies lists these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVWC7&P=SM

But it says they're for the EXB. Anyone know if they fit the BX as well? Do MIP or RPM make CVD's that fit the BX?

Thanks!

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

The nitro BX has cvd's get those.

Quinton

iTrader: (2)

the ext uses dogbones. i've never had good luck with cvd's

Firehawk989

iTrader: (1)

Tower says the shaft diameter of the nitro BX CVDs is a mm or so larger, would I have to get new rear hub carriers and/or hub bearings to fit them?

*Edit* Nevermind, I scrolled to the bottom of the page and it says they are a direct replacement for the EP BX as well.

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

I finally got to play with the evader today. Was very happy with it's performance. Especially considering I had a brushed stock motor in it. My buddy had a couple maxamp 5000mah batts he wanted me to put some cycles on, so I had fun. Beat the crap out of it on a smaller parking lot that had piles making nice jumps, ruts, step-ups. Car soaks everything up nicely. Tends to jump nose high but the 5000 batts are kind of light too. Think when racing time comes I'll just buy all the springs, start out soft with 30wt ae oil all around and keep trying springs till I find what I like. Seems to turn nicely, but with the traction there a dump truck would turn. Impressed that I did not break anything, and the diff/idler gears had no problems soaking up the landings even with a tight slipper. I did hear it bark a couple times, but that is what they are for Definately gotta get some bearings to go in the motor, bushings suck and should be done away with in all motors anymore. Shock pistons, I have the whole set. Will have to take the shockers apart sometime and see what is in them, and what I think I will like better. Glad to finally have another truck to play with. And am also glad I am off the wall and running the DTX. Like to be different.

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

Very SWEEEEEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

AE truck front silver and AE rear green are a good start for springs.

OR Losi red front and pink rear

AE and Losi pistons will fit. <<< these have numbers or color so you where you are to start.

Nose high, put 1/2 oz of lead under the nose bash plate.

I use AE parts most of the time cause I race AE trucks so I have the parts.

IF you can find one get a Losi XXT front shock tower, they have one more inner top shock mount. Puts more steering in, some what like a T4.

Quinton

iTrader: (2)

Went back to my friends track again today. I'm having quite abit of fun running this little truck out the little track. No noise, no dust, just fun!

But I ripped the ballstud right out of the caster block. Never had that problem. I wish it was longer so I could put a nut on the back.
Any suggestions?

gulio

iTrader: (32)

If yours was the short one, maybe you can catch some more thread or even have enough length for a nut by using the long studs DTXC6254 http://www.duratrax.com/discontinued/dtxd28d.html

Quinton

iTrader: (2)

Thank you! I put them on my list

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

Well I think I'll be getting one of the LIFE-po batteries. Less voltage, but much more stable, can charge way faster than lipo, lasts longer, and I think my charger will charge a123's and that is compatible with life batts from what I gather. I only run mod so less voltage shouldn't be a problem, MOTOR UP!! lol
Actually I think I may get a 3s batt instead of a 2s. Then the same motors I have will be even faster, I will need a batt with less mah, and again since I run mod only it will be ok to race with. Rock on, now to sell some nitro stuff so I can $$ some new stuff.

Quinton

iTrader: (2)

Dangit! I bought some good batteries only to have some problems. They're putting out good power so I was going too fast and hit our fence and broke the top of the shock. "fixed" it for the time being with zipties to try out the batteries. Then the dang idler gear stripped out now!

I'm wondering if I put in the expensive metal idler will the other plastic gear that holds the spider gears just strip out next?
Maybe this isn't the truck for BL POWWAAA?