769LikesTeam Associated B6.4 and B6.4d
10-19-2023, 08:54 AM - Wikipost
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B6.3 / B6.3D and B6.4 / B6.4D Helpful Posts
B6.4 and B6.4D specific parts release list. https://img2.associatedelectrics.com...Parts-List.pdf Team Associated 1/10th Shock Length Quick Reference Chart https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=955 How to measure Shock Shafts https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=956 Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Information on the rear axles and the different length dog bones from Roger M. The 0 (option) and +2 (kit) axles are for using different length driveshafts with the different arm lengths Kit +2 axles 73mm arms wih 67mm driveshafts 75mm arms with 69mm driveshafts Option 0 axles 73mm arms with 65mm driveshafts 75mm arms with 67mm driveshafts Why would you want to change the driveshaft length? It is essentially to do with the fact that a drive joint will want to run straight under power and the position of that joint (the pin through the CVA joint into the axle). The further that CVA joint pin is inboard of the lower hub hingepin (assuming you're running fairly typical outer link positions) the more bind you will generate in the suspension as the drive joint tried to straighten under power, this extra binding will 'stiffen' the suspension as it adds load on top of that from the weight transfer on the car. Conversely the the nearer the CVA joint pin is to lower hub hinge pin the less bind and thus freer suspension movement. When would you want to change this? Basically on bumpy tracks, tracks with inconsistent grip or lower grip you want the suspension to be as free to move as possible so that you get the full benefit from the shock and roll centre tuning, also the car feels like it has more grip in the areas where you go on/off/on the gas. To this end you will be running the longest possible dog bone you can for the arm length, hence why the +2 axles are in the kit. On smooth super high grip tracks (EOS / CRC carpet for example) running a shorter dogbone will feel like it takes grip away from the rear as you get on power, aiding late corner rotation and reducing the on-power understeer that often plagues tight carpet tracks. The only time I would run the 0 axles is with 67mm dogbones on 75mm arms and only then when I wish I could get let rear toe than the 1deg minimum we can get from the pills we have (actually I had custom pill made so I can get 0deg rear toe for those types of tracks but ...) What are the handling differences between the 73 and 75mm arms. Brief explanation from RogerM (thanks!) The arm length effects the roll centre and more significantly the roll centre migration as the car rolls in the corners. Shorter rear arms will encourage more tire loading so more grip as the car rolls, great for lower grip surfaces but on high grip surfaces they can stall the rotation mid corner costing corner speed. They can also make the car feel more reactive which is good when a low grip level makes the car feel less reactive so making it harder to place in technical sections. Long rear arms the opposite, car will rotate more freely for more corner speed but won't generate as much side-bite so mid/late corner will be reduced. Make the car feel naturally lazier which is great on high grip surfaces as it makes the car easier to drive overall. So the long Vs short rear arm is just like the flat Vs gullwing front arm, all about the grip level from the surface and how technical the track layout is. 
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03-06-2024, 08:18 AM
#1441
Tech Rookie
Most people don't run a front wing but try it and see if you notice and difference/like it but not essential.
Re the diff, best to take it out and eork out if uts a ball diff or gear diff. You are correct it should spin the other way when you hold the spur gear. If it's a ball diff, new balls and a rebuild kit should have you sorted.
Good luck.
Re the diff, best to take it out and eork out if uts a ball diff or gear diff. You are correct it should spin the other way when you hold the spur gear. If it's a ball diff, new balls and a rebuild kit should have you sorted.
Good luck.
03-07-2024, 06:01 PM
#1442
Tech Addict
Any one have any information on Schumacher springs? I have seen/heard some guys run them for carpet. I have a very light weight b6.4 and would like to try some different springs but don't know which ones to buy. For reference we currently run orange fronts and yellow rears. Want to try some slightly stiffer springs.
03-08-2024, 01:08 AM
#1443
Tech Rookie
Any one have any information on Schumacher springs? I have seen/heard some guys run them for carpet. I have a very light weight b6.4 and would like to try some different springs but don't know which ones to buy. For reference we currently run orange fronts and yellow rears. Want to try some slightly stiffer springs.
What you need is:
- the spring itself (CR811) - HR black spring (rate 2.6lb/in), that's the one people are using on the rear of the B7 a lot.
- if you want to go stiffer all around you'll want the yellow front springs as well: (CR636)
- the spring cup, the Schumacher springs taper at the bottom end (U4890)
Hope this helps, sorry I can't link to these yet as I don't have the required postcount yet to include links.
03-11-2024, 06:08 PM
#1444
Has anyone tried the B7 caster and steering blocks on their B6.4? I tried it yesterday because I wanted the additional roll center adjustability available with the B7 blocks. While the parts fit directly without changing the arms, I did get sway bar bind on the compression stroke of the suspension. When I drove it on the track, the car was noticeably easier to drive so I want to stick with it, but I need to deal with the sway bar bind issue. Any thoughts? TIA!
03-12-2024, 02:36 AM
#1445
Tech Addict
If I recall people are using the B6.1-3 caster/steering blocks, this is to improve steering response? Can't remember.
I'm getting my B6.4D together for wet astro so thought stay on the kit 6.4 items?
I'm getting my B6.4D together for wet astro so thought stay on the kit 6.4 items?
03-12-2024, 05:09 AM
#1446
Tech Master
For wet astro you will want the B6.1 castor blocks and steering knuckles, the car needs all the help it can get with turn in on the floppy Schumacher silvers
03-12-2024, 05:25 AM
#1447
Tech Addict
Been wondering what the fusion tyres will be like on astro too, not purchased any yet.
03-20-2024, 08:04 PM
#1448
Tech Apprentice
Odd question, but has anyone mounted T6 sideguards to their B6.4? I want to run a more traditional body (think rear cab like old school) but the one I've found is wider in the back. I've tried side guards from my T6.4 but they're too long; wondering if the a different T6 sideguard would fit?
03-21-2024, 04:46 PM
#1449
Odd question, but has anyone mounted T6 sideguards to their B6.4? I want to run a more traditional body (think rear cab like old school) but the one I've found is wider in the back. I've tried side guards from my T6.4 but they're too long; wondering if the a different T6 sideguard would fit?
03-26-2024, 11:57 AM
#1450
Tech Apprentice
What spares would you guys get for a B6.4 for carpet?
My kid broke the ball mount for the roll bar this past weekend, with the upgraded carbon arms. I still have the original plastic arms so I'll put them in for now, hopefully it's not the start of a trend breaking the bar mounts on the arms. He also somehow bent a front titanium tie rod..
My kid broke the ball mount for the roll bar this past weekend, with the upgraded carbon arms. I still have the original plastic arms so I'll put them in for now, hopefully it's not the start of a trend breaking the bar mounts on the arms. He also somehow bent a front titanium tie rod..
03-26-2024, 12:46 PM
#1451
What spares would you guys get for a B6.4 for carpet?
My kid broke the ball mount for the roll bar this past weekend, with the upgraded carbon arms. I still have the original plastic arms so I'll put them in for now, hopefully it's not the start of a trend breaking the bar mounts on the arms. He also somehow bent a front titanium tie rod..
My kid broke the ball mount for the roll bar this past weekend, with the upgraded carbon arms. I still have the original plastic arms so I'll put them in for now, hopefully it's not the start of a trend breaking the bar mounts on the arms. He also somehow bent a front titanium tie rod..
03-26-2024, 10:57 PM
#1452
Tech Apprentice
Front arms, hinge pins and bulkhead tend to be what I’ve needed to replace. Carbon arms are tougher, but tend to bend hinge pins in a way they get jammed in the aluminum bulkhead. For reference, I have 3x B6.4s setup for stock 17.5 that my son and his friends use about once a week in the summer at an outdoor turf track. Everything else has been fairly durable. I’d also grab shock x-rings and diff seals to have on hand for rebuilds.
04-08-2024, 02:33 AM
#1453
Tech Rookie
Hi all,
I'm looking to convert my old B6.4 to a wet astroturf car so i want to add a standup gearbox, but cant seem to find a list somewhere with the parts to do so.
Is it the b6.2/3 gearbox and internals?
I'm looking to convert my old B6.4 to a wet astroturf car so i want to add a standup gearbox, but cant seem to find a list somewhere with the parts to do so.
Is it the b6.2/3 gearbox and internals?
04-08-2024, 02:42 AM
#1454
Good luck.
04-08-2024, 04:42 AM
#1455
Tech Master