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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Old 03-24-2020, 06:21 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
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Last edit by: Kraig
Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.





Features:

Easy-access gear differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Steel chassis weight
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis






Features:

Easy-access ball differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
+1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis


Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for both cars:
Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades:

Parts List:

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):

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Old 06-25-2018, 09:04 AM
  #1396  
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When I converted my b6 to b6.1, I did not use the new v2 springs. I have heard mixed reviews on them.
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Old 06-25-2018, 09:48 AM
  #1397  
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Originally Posted by RogerM
I've found the exact opposite, B6.1 platform is way quicker on astro than the B6 was.

Same the 6.1 has been much faster then my 6
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Old 06-25-2018, 11:54 AM
  #1398  
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My 6.1D is faster and smoother thru the corners than my B6 D was, I'm not the best driver and still new to the buggy class and mine is box stock 100% and even I can tell the difference. my brother still has his B6D and drove mine and said he could tell the difference. I like it a lot.
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Old 06-25-2018, 10:27 PM
  #1399  
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
My 6.1D is faster and smoother thru the corners than my B6 D was, I'm not the best driver and still new to the buggy class and mine is box stock 100% and even I can tell the difference. my brother still has his B6D and drove mine and said he could tell the difference. I like it a lot.
Box stock setup of the b6.1d is pretty dialed for high bite clay. It's a bit numb, which is perfect for beginners.
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Old 06-26-2018, 06:42 AM
  #1400  
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Originally Posted by Johnn27
I found that on high traction astro I had to go to the v2 Orange 5.10 springs in front and yellow in the rear to get the car to not traction roll with swaggers and pyramids. The car was instantly better than with the stock springs. Also I am running both steel weights and brass bulkhead. Now I am going to try making the front turnbuckle longer using the inner hole on the bulkhead. I also put the bottom of the shocks all the way out.
Try what I suggest in my setups, too stiff a car will actually traction roll more readily than a softer car, over damp not over spring!

If I drive my car like a complete idiot I can get it to traction roll but that requires me to be pushing about 200% over what is required to give a fast lap time.
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Old 06-26-2018, 07:24 AM
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How durable have you noticed the B6.1 and B6.1D to be? Are they taking good impacts that a beginner would dish out without breaking too many parts? Also, for running on looser dirt, with the occasional race would you suggest sticking with the 6.1D, or running the 6.1 and adjusting setup to have a chassis that is more versatile for different track conditions?
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Old 06-26-2018, 09:14 AM
  #1402  
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Originally Posted by lowdoughracer
How durable have you noticed the B6.1 and B6.1D to be? Are they taking good impacts that a beginner would dish out without breaking too many parts? Also, for running on looser dirt, with the occasional race would you suggest sticking with the 6.1D, or running the 6.1 and adjusting setup to have a chassis that is more versatile for different track conditions?
Durability for me has been great but I I'm not running into things constantly. Any car will break if you're constantly hitting things or flipping. As far as .1 vs .1D, if you are racing on dirt or clay a majority of the time get the D. The chassis are the same so I'm not sure what you're meaning with "adjusting setup to have a chassis that is more versatile"
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Old 06-27-2018, 05:53 AM
  #1403  
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Originally Posted by davidfast
Durability for me has been great but I I'm not running into things constantly. Any car will break if you're constantly hitting things or flipping. As far as .1 vs .1D, if you are racing on dirt or clay a majority of the time get the D. The chassis are the same so I'm not sure what you're meaning with "adjusting setup to have a chassis that is more versatile"
I appreciate the feedback! I was referring to the design differences between the .1 and .1D and what those differences are suited towards. I know some people before had suggested getting a chassis with a laydown transmission so that it could be ran out on carpet/astro surfaces competitively, but then could have setup adjustments made to still run well on dirt. If that makes sense.
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Old 06-27-2018, 06:00 AM
  #1404  
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Originally Posted by lowdoughracer
I appreciate the feedback! I was referring to the design differences between the .1 and .1D and what those differences are suited towards. I know some people before had suggested getting a chassis with a laydown transmission so that it could be ran out on carpet/astro surfaces competitively, but then could have setup adjustments made to still run well on dirt. If that makes sense.
To be honest, sometimes you can make a laydown get around the track on some lower bite stuff but in those situations a 3/4 gear standup will still be faster. It really is track / driver dependent. The .1 introduced the layback which is an in between option from the laydown and standup configurations. No real durability issues compared to the first gen B6's....those issues have been addressed and were primarily shock tower breakage related. New towers are thicker.
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Old 06-27-2018, 04:23 PM
  #1405  
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What is a good Savox servo such as the 1257 or 1258 or any other for the B6.1D? I will be running indoor high bite clay at OCRC and SDRC. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 06-27-2018, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TC5Driven
What is a good Savox servo such as the 1257 or 1258 or any other for the B6.1D? I will be running indoor high bite clay at OCRC and SDRC. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
1257 is good for 2wd buggy, 1258 you can use on 4wd, st, and sct. If you want low profile Protek 160T
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Old 06-27-2018, 06:16 PM
  #1407  
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Originally Posted by Phat-Boy
1257 is good for 2wd buggy, 1258 you can use on 4wd, st, and sct. If you want low profile Protek 160T
what about a Savox 1251??
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Old 06-27-2018, 06:24 PM
  #1408  
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Originally Posted by Phat-Boy
1257 is good for 2wd buggy, 1258 you can use on 4wd, st, and sct. If you want low profile Protek 160T
Thanks a bunch. It gets me started.
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Old 06-27-2018, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rvrslt1

what about a Savox 1251??
it's for on-road, gears won't last long.
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Old 06-28-2018, 11:47 AM
  #1410  
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Originally Posted by rvrslt1

what about a Savox 1251??
I used it in my 2wd for years until I sold it. I bet it still works
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