1089LikesTeam Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
03-24-2020, 06:21 PM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.   Features: Easy-access gear differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Steel chassis weight Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis   Features: Easy-access ball differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage +1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for both cars: Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades: Parts List: Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.): 
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03-04-2020, 02:06 PM
#3646
In theory, would a dirt setup (ie. Spencer's go-to setup that he was using forever) be easier to drive on carpet for a 6 year old (lazier response)? Or more difficult when compared to my carpet setup (setup for max speed and not necessarily ease of driving)? Wondering if I can dual-purpose my dirt car for him, since he only races novice once a month or so on carpet. I would put the gear diff in for him, lower the ride height, and send it, vs buying another car.
03-04-2020, 02:47 PM
#3647
What kind of handling characteristics change between the flat and gull-wing front arms? (using the correct towers)
03-04-2020, 06:06 PM
#3649
More initial steering and less mid to exit steering with flat arms . The way they “feel” to me is the start of a turn the suspension is softer then the get progressively firmer through the corner. Gull arms seem to be more linear throughout the corner .
03-05-2020, 02:20 AM
#3650
Last year at the Midwest champs race at The Ohio RC Factory I copied his setup because I run at that track and I really liked it, I guess copying a setup depends on how close your driving style is to his and how similar the track conditions are, I copied a setup before from a track in Cali and hated it in Ohio.
03-05-2020, 04:38 AM
#3651
Tech Master
03-05-2020, 04:53 AM
#3652
Tech Master
With the flat arms there is a lot of initial tyre loading (which is what produces grip) as the shock is initially quite stiff but as the car rolls there isn't much change in the stiffness so the grip level doesn't increase, if anything it will drop off.
That is why you get that feeling of initial steering then a tendency for increasing push as the corner progresses
The gullwing arms give a fairly soft initial feel due to the car being able to roll relatively easily at first thus not loading the tyres but as the car rolls and the suspension compresses the shock angle changes causing the shock to effectively stiffen which in turn loads the tyre more resulting in more mid-exit steering.
Now here is the caveat, this relies upon the effective line between the inner and outer hinge pins being relatively level, certainly not sloping down towards the chassis very much, if it is you will still get a slight gullwing effect but no much.
To get the gullwing effect you need the shock mounting mount needs to move outwards as the car rolls away from rideheight.
03-05-2020, 08:28 AM
#3653
03-09-2020, 05:22 AM
#3654
Tech Master
Generally yes, start with the same shock package between the tow arm types, then if you need to tune to suit you / the conditions.
03-19-2020, 03:11 AM
#3655
I have a question I figured I ask here even though it is not off road related I figured there is enough fast guys here that could help. We are racing our B6.1's on carpet for now and will be outside once it starts, and it is oval for both. they are Modlites, the cars are fast on carpet cant wait to get it on the high bite clay oval. Any ways my question it would a gear diff be better than a ball for both and would a slipper or slipper eliminator be better. Please explain the answers so I can learn something rather than just be told do it this way or that.
03-19-2020, 06:19 AM
#3656
03-19-2020, 11:24 AM
#3657
I have a question I figured I ask here even though it is not off road related I figured there is enough fast guys here that could help. We are racing our B6.1's on carpet for now and will be outside once it starts, and it is oval for both. they are Modlites, the cars are fast on carpet cant wait to get it on the high bite clay oval. Any ways my question it would a gear diff be better than a ball for both and would a slipper or slipper eliminator be better. Please explain the answers so I can learn something rather than just be told do it this way or that.
03-22-2020, 04:39 PM
#3659
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (7)
if everything moves freely, but then only briefly tightens up just a little, then releases again, it is probably one of the internal transmission gears that is a little out of round. if i had to guess, it would be the idler gear. i just went through this on my tlr 22-5.0. i bought a pack of two idlers. the second one fixed the problem. just my experience.
03-22-2020, 07:38 PM
#3660
Tech Addict
Sometimes it happens when you overtighten screws, try checking the lower 2 screws holding the two halfs of the case together, or the 4 screws that clamp the top cap of the transmission on. They do not need to be clamped down real tight, just snug or a 1/4 turn out from tight can free it up. Try twisting the case back and forth while you loosen them if you have it out of the buggy.
Another way it can happen is if the aluminum camber plate is not aligned fully into the slot on the rear of the transmission case. I think Roger has a post on this.