Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
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#3241
if your in the u.s. I will mail you one. have tons. don't use the small ballstud steering link at all.
#3243
Tech Initiate
edit I’ve found 3racing do 4.8mm steel or titanium for £3 so I might try them, I’m wondering if 4.8mm is close enough.
https://www.3racing-parts.com/3racin...-90013925.html
edit 2:
can someone educate me? I thought the 5mm they refer to was the size of the ball but it appears I’m wrong? And that might be simply the length of the thread. So they have 2 sizes of ballstud ie normal or heavy duty, and both are used in various lengths of thread? Is that right?
in which case does anyone know the official classification of what size ball stud the head is on associated ballstuds. Ie the small is...? And the large is...?
Last edited by CoolHandsLondon; 10-27-2019 at 12:45 PM.
#3244
unfortunately I’m in the UK! The ballstuds are really pricey in my opinion. You have to buy 10 for £16, but no one else seems to do 5mm
edit I’ve found 3racing do 4.8mm steel or titanium for £3 so I might try them, I’m wondering if 4.8mm is close enough.
https://www.3racing-parts.com/3racin...-90013925.html
edit 2:
can someone educate me? I thought the 5mm they refer to was the size of the ball but it appears I’m wrong? And that might be simply the length of the thread. So they have 2 sizes of ballstud ie normal or heavy duty, and both are used in various lengths of thread? Is that right?
in which case does anyone know the official classification of what size ball stud the head is on associated ballstuds. Ie the small is...? And the large is...?
#3245
Tech Master
Thanks Roger, one of the best setups I ever "copied" was a high-grip carpet setup on my 4wd (different brand), so I'll try the Jamie Hall setup you linked.
I don't have the aluminum hubs, do you (or anyone) know which hole on the plastic hub would be equivalent to what Jamie is running on the Aluminum?
Do you know which lower rear shock mounting hole he's using?
I don't have the aluminum hubs, do you (or anyone) know which hole on the plastic hub would be equivalent to what Jamie is running on the Aluminum?
Do you know which lower rear shock mounting hole he's using?
2mm is in between the rows of the plastic hub inserts. 0mm is the lower hole range and 2.5mm is the upper hole range. Start with the upper hole range in the C hole and you will be very close (that is what I ran at the same event)
Inside hole on the B64 (hard) rear arms. I've told Jamie off for missing stuff before, I'll get his mum to beat him
#3246
Tech Master
If it is Jamie's then I can explain what we did and why.
The track had very inconsistent grip and there were areas where it was high grip and areas where it was much lower, also there were some corners straight after jump-to-flat landings which really upsets the car.
The cure for this was to raise the whole link so that the rear of the car responded slower to the changes in load as they happened mid corner, this gave chance to catch the car if if started to slide then dug in to grip roll and also made the car feel a little more stable and confidence inspiring when trying to 'thread the needle'. Carpet racing is all about confidence!
The track was VERY heavy on hairpins and narrow chicanes so we needed to free up the rear of the car a lot, forward traction was good so reducing the rear toe in to 1 degree was a viable solution.
Adding a little antisquat has the effect of loading the rear tires on exit whilst not transferring much load off the front tires, it is a really good trick on tight high grip tracks to keep the rotation going whilst allowing you to get on the gas earlier. Best of both worlds so long as the side-bite is there to keep the rear from sliding out.
Something I have found is that the B6.1 is more responsive to tuning the rear than the front, big changes in the front usually come with big side effects where as tuning the balance from the rear results in a more progressive change in the feeling of the car.
For example if I want more corner speed gaining natural rotation by running a flatter / longer rear link is preferable to trying to force more out of the front of the car (although Jamie did add a little by going to +1mm on front axle height rather than out normal +2mm then going 1.5mm under inner front ball stud rather than our normal 1mm to bring the roll-centre back to where it was .... this changes how the roll centre migrates and adds a little mid/exit steering without making the car twitchy as the axle height alone would have).
Hope fully that all makes sense.
#3247
What's the best setup kit for this buggy?
#3249
Tech Addict
iTrader: (40)
#3250
to preserve the carpet, some tracks disallow aggressive pin tires, so it’s best to ask what is good and allowed. Unlike outdoors, indoors I find everyone runs the same style of tread once the winner is found.
#3251
Has anyone received a body that seems to have a problem with the mold in their kit? I have an area that looked weird after painting and cracked prematurely in that area.
#3252
Can the B6 Proline Predator body fit on the new B6.1? I don't mind having to do some trimming but my concern is around the spur gear of the B6.1. I do not want to have to remove so much material to the point that the spur gear cover would be exposed.
Thanks
Thanks
#3253
In order to do the B64 rear arms conversion on my b6.1, What other parts do I need besides a set of rear b64 arms? Would B74 arms work as well?
I have the Schelle rear hubs.
Thank in advance.
I have the Schelle rear hubs.
Thank in advance.
#3254
Tech Master
Longer screws to suit the above.
Nothing else required.
The B74 arms are longer and change the overall geometry, so far only tried them on carpet and they came straight back off.
#3255
What is a good high bite carpet setup with a lot of steering?
Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D Setup Sheets
Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D Setup Sheets