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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Old 03-24-2020, 06:21 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.





Features:

Easy-access gear differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Steel chassis weight
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis






Features:

Easy-access ball differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
+1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis


Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for both cars:
Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades:

Parts List:

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):

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Old 10-27-2019, 11:00 AM
  #3241  
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Originally Posted by CoolHandsLondon
Anyone know a cheap alternative for 5mm ‘long’ neck ballstud? The associated seem very expensive, can’t believe there isn’t an alternative? I need 1 for the steering bell crank.
if your in the u.s. I will mail you one. have tons. don't use the small ballstud steering link at all.
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Old 10-27-2019, 11:20 AM
  #3242  
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Originally Posted by walter white
if your in the u.s. I will mail you one. have tons. don't use the small ballstud steering link at all.
What do you use instead?
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Old 10-27-2019, 12:19 PM
  #3243  
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Originally Posted by walter white
if your in the u.s. I will mail you one. have tons. don't use the small ballstud steering link at all.
unfortunately I’m in the UK! The ballstuds are really pricey in my opinion. You have to buy 10 for £16, but no one else seems to do 5mm

edit I’ve found 3racing do 4.8mm steel or titanium for £3 so I might try them, I’m wondering if 4.8mm is close enough.
https://www.3racing-parts.com/3racin...-90013925.html

edit 2:
can someone educate me? I thought the 5mm they refer to was the size of the ball but it appears I’m wrong? And that might be simply the length of the thread. So they have 2 sizes of ballstud ie normal or heavy duty, and both are used in various lengths of thread? Is that right?

in which case does anyone know the official classification of what size ball stud the head is on associated ballstuds. Ie the small is...? And the large is...?

Last edited by CoolHandsLondon; 10-27-2019 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 10-27-2019, 02:15 PM
  #3244  
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Originally Posted by CoolHandsLondon

unfortunately I’m in the UK! The ballstuds are really pricey in my opinion. You have to buy 10 for £16, but no one else seems to do 5mm

edit I’ve found 3racing do 4.8mm steel or titanium for £3 so I might try them, I’m wondering if 4.8mm is close enough.
https://www.3racing-parts.com/3racin...-90013925.html

edit 2:
can someone educate me? I thought the 5mm they refer to was the size of the ball but it appears I’m wrong? And that might be simply the length of the thread. So they have 2 sizes of ballstud ie normal or heavy duty, and both are used in various lengths of thread? Is that right?

in which case does anyone know the official classification of what size ball stud the head is on associated ballstuds. Ie the small is...? And the large is...?
The 5mm does refer to the thread length. I don't drive AE cars right now so I can't measure the size of the ball for you, but if you have calipers you can measure yourself. If you are going to use something from a different manufacture, it has to be very close to the exact same size. Tiny bit too small and there will be slop and the ball cup won't stay on. Tiny bit too big and it will bind. Schelle makes a 2 pack of 6mm B6 ballstuds part # SHL1376. Should be much less expensive than the 10 pack, although extra ball studs are always a good thing to have on hand.
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Old 10-28-2019, 06:08 AM
  #3245  
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Originally Posted by MrLean
Thanks Roger, one of the best setups I ever "copied" was a high-grip carpet setup on my 4wd (different brand), so I'll try the Jamie Hall setup you linked.

I don't have the aluminum hubs, do you (or anyone) know which hole on the plastic hub would be equivalent to what Jamie is running on the Aluminum?

Do you know which lower rear shock mounting hole he's using?
OK ... here goes in order...

2mm is in between the rows of the plastic hub inserts. 0mm is the lower hole range and 2.5mm is the upper hole range. Start with the upper hole range in the C hole and you will be very close (that is what I ran at the same event)

Inside hole on the B64 (hard) rear arms. I've told Jamie off for missing stuff before, I'll get his mum to beat him

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Old 10-28-2019, 06:27 AM
  #3246  
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Originally Posted by Roadburn
Looking at the carpet setup, TY for posting Roger. Looking at the rear pill settings and then adding 5mm for roll center, am I missing something? I also thought adjusting pin height is more effective than turnbuckle height.
Can you please clarify which carpet setup you are referring to?

If it is Jamie's then I can explain what we did and why.
The track had very inconsistent grip and there were areas where it was high grip and areas where it was much lower, also there were some corners straight after jump-to-flat landings which really upsets the car.
The cure for this was to raise the whole link so that the rear of the car responded slower to the changes in load as they happened mid corner, this gave chance to catch the car if if started to slide then dug in to grip roll and also made the car feel a little more stable and confidence inspiring when trying to 'thread the needle'. Carpet racing is all about confidence!

The track was VERY heavy on hairpins and narrow chicanes so we needed to free up the rear of the car a lot, forward traction was good so reducing the rear toe in to 1 degree was a viable solution.
Adding a little antisquat has the effect of loading the rear tires on exit whilst not transferring much load off the front tires, it is a really good trick on tight high grip tracks to keep the rotation going whilst allowing you to get on the gas earlier. Best of both worlds so long as the side-bite is there to keep the rear from sliding out.

Something I have found is that the B6.1 is more responsive to tuning the rear than the front, big changes in the front usually come with big side effects where as tuning the balance from the rear results in a more progressive change in the feeling of the car.
For example if I want more corner speed gaining natural rotation by running a flatter / longer rear link is preferable to trying to force more out of the front of the car (although Jamie did add a little by going to +1mm on front axle height rather than out normal +2mm then going 1.5mm under inner front ball stud rather than our normal 1mm to bring the roll-centre back to where it was .... this changes how the roll centre migrates and adds a little mid/exit steering without making the car twitchy as the axle height alone would have).

Hope fully that all makes sense.
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:44 AM
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What's the best setup kit for this buggy?
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Old 10-31-2019, 03:16 PM
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Cant figure where to post so I posted in this forum....What's the ideal temp setting for a soldering iron in Fahrenheit? Just got a new iron with a digital temp setting
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Old 10-31-2019, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
Cant figure where to post so I posted in this forum....What's the ideal temp setting for a soldering iron in Fahrenheit? Just got a new iron with a digital temp setting
How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:05 PM
  #3250  
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
Going to give racing indoors carpet a try, it is the grey crc carpet not the green astro turf stuff what would be a good tire to try was thinking slicks maybe.......
Ask what tires are used at your track, usually a mini pin tire is good, such as a pin down pin point or Schumacher mini pin. With soft foam. The fronts are narrow stagger rib Tires withOUT foam, such as cut stagger, wedge, swagger tires.

to preserve the carpet, some tracks disallow aggressive pin tires, so it’s best to ask what is good and allowed. Unlike outdoors, indoors I find everyone runs the same style of tread once the winner is found.
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Old 11-04-2019, 12:25 PM
  #3251  
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Has anyone received a body that seems to have a problem with the mold in their kit? I have an area that looked weird after painting and cracked prematurely in that area.
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Old 11-04-2019, 02:19 PM
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Can the B6 Proline Predator body fit on the new B6.1? I don't mind having to do some trimming but my concern is around the spur gear of the B6.1. I do not want to have to remove so much material to the point that the spur gear cover would be exposed.

Thanks
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Old 11-04-2019, 04:10 PM
  #3253  
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In order to do the B64 rear arms conversion on my b6.1, What other parts do I need besides a set of rear b64 arms? Would B74 arms work as well?

I have the Schelle rear hubs.

Thank in advance.
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Old 11-05-2019, 05:06 AM
  #3254  
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Originally Posted by Pro2racer01
In order to do the B64 rear arms conversion on my b6.1, What other parts do I need besides a set of rear b64 arms? Would B74 arms work as well?

I have the Schelle rear hubs.

Thank in advance.
Between 2 and 4mm of spacing between the lower shock eyelet and the wishbone (depending on the shock angle you want to achieve), I typically run 3mm.
Longer screws to suit the above.

Nothing else required.

The B74 arms are longer and change the overall geometry, so far only tried them on carpet and they came straight back off.
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Old 11-07-2019, 01:18 PM
  #3255  
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What is a good high bite carpet setup with a lot of steering?
Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D Setup Sheets
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