negatv1

iTrader: (71)

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

It shouldn't impact anti squat because if you remove the shim from the D Block, you should also remove it from the C Block. You either have the shim under both blocks or neither block.

negatv1

iTrader: (71)

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

I believe the shims are 1mm thick, so yes, that would be correct. If they are more than 1mm thick, then you would not be able to get the same results.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Had almost another perfect drive time with my yz4sf. Went to a 13.5 setup for our full mod class instead of the 8.5T motor I was using due to the track size and I wanted to get the vehicle more oriented to 13.5 racing for another track I may go to again. did some of the common setup changes to the car like lightweight diff components and some titanium screws. I did also go to the 5.5mm ball stud setup, but just the stock yokomo steel. Be cool if lunsford offered a conversion for 5.5mm ball studs.

I also went with a different team setup to try, biggest difference being the diffs at 10K front and rear I felt than then 7K I was using. Using the same honeycomb tires I used before.

Car was able to set TQ and it I didn't get a super hit in the main that cracked a battery case and knocked out my power wire would have taken the win

I think I am going to go down on the rear diff, back to 7K and try that out again before going to 7K all around as I liked the feel of the car a bit better with 7K all around.

All in all though, car was great. took some hard hits and stayed together from what I can tell other than what I reported.

Will27

In this scenario, your hinge pins will be 0.4mm lower than before.

Yes the spacers are 1mm thick. The number on the pills refers to the offset in degrees, not the distance the pin moves. 1° is 0.6mm, 0.5° is 0.3mm (this info is in the manual)

The spacers move the rear roll center by a large amount, then you can fine tune with the pills or the shims under the camber links. If on carpet, normally run the spacers because of the low ride height.

Ostach24

iTrader: (104)

YZ4 SF with pretty much the kit setup on it. Didn't feel too bad the first time out, oil was maybe a tad light, but good enough for 2nd in its maiden voyage.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

what conditions you race?

Ostach24

iTrader: (104)

Cain

iTrader: (294)

For the RDRP Steering rack and the shims it includes, I am assuming the black shims go inbetween the bearings and the silver shims go to the steering arm side. So the screws just go direct on the bearings. I noticed however slight binding when you tighten down the screws all the ways. I back off a hair but was wondering if anyone else noticed this.

Will27

I found this on 1 side of mine - the silver shim was slightly too thin. When the screw is tightened, the steering rack rubs against the crank. I replaced it with one of the silver shims that goes under the shock piston and it was ok.

Ostach24

iTrader: (104)

Will27

Yes, no slop in the steering rack, but I didn't feel much difference on the track. I was trying to resolve the steering feeling inaccurate, but I found my solution later on. I don't feel these parts are necessary.

Ramirez24

Looking at Mayfields setup, he likes to run v2 ae yellow spring in front, so what is the part# for this. All I find is spring for 1/8 buggy ?

Jeff_S

iTrader: (5)

AE V2 front springs
green (91830)
white (91831)
gray (91832)
blue (91833)
yellow (91834)
red (91835)
orange (91836)