Yokomo YZ-4 SF
With the new car, comes a new thread for comments, questions, tricks, tips, setups, experimentations, constructive critique, pictures, videos, and news pertaining to the building, running, and maintaining of the Yokomo YZ-4 SF.
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Anyone run into a problem with the rear battery post screw not being long enough?
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Originally Posted by tommynash
(Post 15099676)
Anyone run into a problem with the rear battery post screw not being long enough?
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...247562c69d.png |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by tommynash
(Post 15099676)
Anyone run into a problem with the rear battery post screw not being long enough?
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Originally Posted by carpetburner
(Post 15099733)
i forgot to install it b4 i screwed the sidegauds to the chassis .. lol .
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I cant believe none you have your car together and presented us with a complete review yet
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Originally Posted by Pekr.da.skurl
(Post 15100304)
I cant believe none you have your car together and presented us with a complete review yet
- Usual Yokomo quality and fit. Needed very little (.25mm shim here and there) to be good. - Shocks now come with screw on shafts. Farewell e-clips! Not the titanium coated ones but still! - I had to change the shims for the diffs. With the manual setup, mine were bound in their casing and the drivetrain was not free. I had to remove the 0.05 mm on each side and move a 0.10 from one side to the other. - Clearance between the top rear suspension link and the rear shock spring is minimal - The new rear suspension hangers are very nice, and is quite a bit easier to understand. Martin Paradis |
Quick run update on mine. Went to my local track which is usually high bite clay, but with the heat and lack of humidity (SoCal Santa Ana Winds conditions), the track was pretty dry and had a layer of dust off the racing line which I drifted into a few more times then I normally would. First run out was pretty bad, car was very loose and had way too much steeering. Figured I would try running something closer to what Maifield was running at worlds since it seemed like It was close to those conditions. Made the changes, and the car was better with the tail end still being a bit too tail happy for a 4 wheel. Messed with shock oils, locations, but still ended up going with 2x1.7/32.5 middle hole arm, inner hole tower. if I tried to run any other configuration in the back, the shock became too stiff and springy. 1st day wasn't bad, mine you was only off my XB4 pace that has a center diff in it by .200 of a second consistent. I think another a brainstorming effort with me and a couple guys who do car setups I trust, and it will be just as good as the XB4 is right now. I'd like to add this as well, with the track being looser then normal, and the setup not being quite right, I did tag some pipe at very high speeds, and no breakage to speak of. Car is super durable.
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Taking notes and pics of each step of my build. Will post tomorrow when I finish it if anyone is interested?
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Originally Posted by stuffandthat
(Post 15100721)
Taking notes and pics of each step of my build. Will post tomorrow when I finish it if anyone is interested?
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Originally Posted by rhodopsine
(Post 15100532)
...
- Shocks now come with screw on shafts. Farewell e-clips! Not the titanium coated ones but still! ... |
Anymore drive reports?
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What is the drive train
2.6? 2.5? Add what other spurs will work on the buggy? 81 and 78. Thank you. |
my first 1/10 4wd buggy, so im not sure, is it ok that I can move whole slipper back and forth for about 1mm? No side play.
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Originally Posted by dabear
(Post 15101694)
my first 1/10 4wd buggy, so im not sure, is it ok that I can move whole slipper back and forth for about 1mm? No side play.
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