Yokomo YZ-4 SF
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#721
Tech Elite
Your servo may require a different amount of plastic spacers between servo and servo mount. The position of the mounting tabs can make a huge difference.
#723
Tech Initiate
I fixed my steering interference problem. Best to leave a note here with what I figured out to close the loop.
The manual (p12) calls for a 2mm spacer on the bellcrank arm plate. That was not there. Removing the ball stud, adding the spacer, and then re-bolting everything else up did the trick.
The 2mm Aluminum Spacer called for here was not installed.
The manual (p12) calls for a 2mm spacer on the bellcrank arm plate. That was not there. Removing the ball stud, adding the spacer, and then re-bolting everything else up did the trick.
The 2mm Aluminum Spacer called for here was not installed.
#724
What is everyone doing about the front arm breaking problem. I may not be the best driver but it does not take a very hard hit to break the front arms on this car. I also have another make 4wd wheeler car and arms last months compaired to minutes with the yz4. I have tried the new +1 arms and find them no better. I remember seeing something about other brands fitting but cant remember which ones they where. I like the way this car drives but arm breaking along with shock caps is getting old.
#725
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
What is everyone doing about the front arm breaking problem. I may not be the best driver but it does not take a very hard hit to break the front arms on this car. I also have another make 4wd wheeler car and arms last months compaired to minutes with the yz4. I have tried the new +1 arms and find them no better. I remember seeing something about other brands fitting but cant remember which ones they where. I like the way this car drives but arm breaking along with shock caps is getting old.
For shock caps, I went with alloy ones right way.
Have you checked your hingepin blocks as well as the inserts to see if they are tweaked at all?
#728
Had a good day at the track with my car and came home in 1 piece for the first time. I did hit a couple walls but it made it. Had a new fast lap and car was fun to drive. Ordered new front hingepin blocks and pins along with alu shock caps. Hope they work Also got some more arms just in case
#729
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
I had a few "issues" with cars suddenly appearing in front of me during practice on Friday. Broke 2 lefts and 1 right front arm (hadn't broke any up till then) so I decided I didn't want to take the chance of a DNF during Saturdays racing so I swapped to the Z4-008F1 YZ4 arms. Next practice out I had a SCT punt me directly into the wall at full throttle...... took the hit like a champ and kept going. If they don't break then they aren't likely going to LOL
FYI as already noted to fit them you need the ZC-207S sway bar rod ends to adapt your sway bar mounting, also drill the inner hinge pin (3mm) through and add 2.78mm shim between the "B block" (front- rear) and the arm.
FYI as already noted to fit them you need the ZC-207S sway bar rod ends to adapt your sway bar mounting, also drill the inner hinge pin (3mm) through and add 2.78mm shim between the "B block" (front- rear) and the arm.
If you are looking for a more durable alternative to the front arms see the post above.
FYI if you are looking for suggestions/fixes for things take some time and read through this thread or search it I think you will find lots of good information.
As far as the post above about the rear hubs and pulling ball studs out..... I have had zero issues and I am using the stock hubs. A suggestion is to verify the length ball stud being used as it is a common mistake for people to add washers and not add length on the ball stud.
Also to strengthen each hole add a set screw into the unused holes so as to firm up the area around each hole and therefore make it stronger.
#730
I have read through the thread and have those arms on my buggy with no better result. Been through 6 of them. I hope the new parts coming helps. Thanks for the input
#731
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
I've never had issues with rear ball studs either. I have seen problems with the fronts though. My recommendation is to thread a set screw into the unused hole on the hub carrier. This will prolong the life of the stud and the plastic.
I think most of us accepted that we weren't getting new arms quite a while back. In fact, Yokomo has doubled-down on their use of hard plastic since this kit came out, making it seem even less likely.
It will be interesting to see what the eventual next kit brings.
I think most of us accepted that we weren't getting new arms quite a while back. In fact, Yokomo has doubled-down on their use of hard plastic since this kit came out, making it seem even less likely.
It will be interesting to see what the eventual next kit brings.
#733
Last wednesday evening had the maiden for my SF. Man, the car is amazing! Within the first lipo, I was 0.5 sec faster on a 26 sec lap then my dialed mod YZ2.
The stock setup is a bit to soft for me on a indoor EOS carpet track but still decent enough.
Can't wait to get more tracktime so I can work on the setup!
The stock setup is a bit to soft for me on a indoor EOS carpet track but still decent enough.
Can't wait to get more tracktime so I can work on the setup!
I tried a higher diff but it didn't do it for me. The standard height is the best imho.
The car is just amazing, very easy to drive, even with brand new tires.
Edit: I destroyed 1 front arm but it was at full speed on the end of the straight where a random dude decided to cross the track...
#734
Tech Adept
So im looking to get back into wheeling. Sold my old 22-4 a few years back and now I wanna at to my races. Been looking at this car for a while now. Not sure if you guys have covered this but I noticed a price reduction on Amains site. New car soon possibly...?