rinkrat99

Hi All

This is being posted for a fellow racer (Grenade10) who lost his password to post.

1) With the shims as called for in the instructions, the T-Plate is
below the chassis by +/- 1mm. Is this correct?

2) The tweek screws are set into a adjuster bar. How much pre-load
should be on this? The bar bends as more pressure is applied.

3) Should the wider rear axel be used? What is the benefit by using
it? Better big asphalt tracks, small carpet tracks.

4) Is there any good type of bumper for the car?

Thanks

superjet701

iTrader: (3)

Matt, I,m really not trying to do a comparision, I'm not in the position to do that, in about 2-3 weeks I will, a friend of mine just purchaced one, and I wil be able to try it, get a good feel, since we set things up in the same way. I'm just trying to give newbies to the Corally a small input to the way a sp12m works, at least for me, and the versions that I have owned, what they are like, how they change to adjustments. It is just my opinion that the late great sp12ma, is not needed as the latest greatest thing, the non Corral, carbon GRP front end with the balloon rear end is just fine, the sp12m, with a graphite chassis, GRP T plate( 4 cell stock-19 turn ), is just fine.
I say all this in a respect of this, the hobby is in a low right now, and the last thing thatis needed is to make people think that they have to change to the latest greatest most expensive thing just because the pro's use it, this is what has happened in touring car, just to get in to a car now is pushing the $500 envolope, how do you tell a father of a 12-14 year old that wants into this great hobby your are going to look at spending maybe a $1000 to get the goods to race, and beacause he is new, going to crash, better have about $200 in the kitty for parts, all because that is what the pro's use, that they don't even pay for.

Just, again, my humble opinion.

Peter My son wanted spidey up

Swampracer

iTrader: (72)

Hey guys, I have a MINT condition SP12M Ahoniemi kit for sale with a ton of parts, I have listed it on the For:Sale forum but as usual it gets bumped down the list so quickly. I thought I would make a quick post on this forum if anyone is interested.

Here are some pic's, please PM me if you have any questions. Asking $450 for evrything plus shipping. Will ship anywhere.

Cheers

Swampracer

iTrader: (72)

I have the above posting of the SP12M, and have decided to part out the kit, tires, pinions, bodies etc etc.

PM me or e-mail ggherasim@hotmail, if you have any further questions.

Thanks

Jeff Brown

Well, the wishbone suspension is a much more aggressive style frontend design. It really caters to the average local track and euro style tracks which seem to be medium bite at best.

Tosolini and Doseck ran the beam front in end in Cleveland which really seemed to help with the higher bite. Cleveland was not as high bite as usual so I think the wishbone suspension would have been a bit more aggressive as Toso mentioned somewhat of a push there.

We tested the beam frontend at The Gate the week before and it was definately better but Cleveland ended up being lower bite due to the bumps and such.

Jeff

Jeff Brown

Well, I am not sure if the manual has been updated but the Euros kit uses a lower roll center for the car so the shimming is different. I will have to talk with Rob tomorrow and respond to the other questions and give more details.

Jeff

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

The posting by Rinkrat was for me.

I did get a response from Corally early this week. The instructions say to put two washers under the front mount and one under the back of the adjuster. With this set up, the T-bar is below the chassis about 1 - 1.5mm. In the past the T-bar was flush with the chassis, which is how the new one should be set as well. Just more washers.

Anyone have a good front bumber, as I do not have the eye sight and reaction to keep it off the wall and boards for 8min.

Thanks

Swampracer

iTrader: (72)

I have changed the package deal on the SP12M kit mentioned above. Rolling chassis, parts, no bodies and tires!!!

PRICE REDUCED to $200 plus shipping

MattW

Jeff, yeah like i said, was good on really high grip tracks - but i've used it once in the last 3 years!! I guess it depends on the conditions that people race under, and individuals personal preferences. I was talking to a guy over the weekend that said he much prefers the beam over the wishbones.

pete68

iTrader: (1)

HI !!
what is the most common parts that breaks on the sp12m!!
Pete68

tbeardmore

iTrader: (3)

T-Bar, Battery Post (if you get T-Boned), I replaced the Chassis (because I'm picky & I had chipped the left front corner on a board.

Lowrance

iTrader: (30)

Anyone having trouble damping the rear of your Ahoniemi car. I find the stock damping tubes very sloppy in fit and provide little damping with resorting to something really thick ...like 20K diff grease. I fixed the problem tonight with a set of cut down damping tubes from CRC. The tubes were drilled out and tapped 4-40 as to use AE ball cups that work with the stock corally ball studs....stock CRC tubes are setup for 2-56 hardware. I easily have triple the damping compared to stock tubes using the same lube in both

mooony

Thanks for info. I will be doing this modification as well as I don't like the corally damper tubes as well.

Ronald

subman

iTrader: (4)

Does anyone know the part number of the Batt trays that fit the new cells?

mooony

They fit the new cells. The partno: 16170.

Ronald